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  #21  
Old 04-25-2009, 12:23 PM
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JDUtah JDUtah is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiril View Post
That is 6 posts in a row .... you are banned for 1 day.

40 lbs at what % moisture?
lol I almost went for 7 by saying "7 posts woot!"

40% moist by weight.
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  #22  
Old 04-25-2009, 12:26 PM
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terrapro terrapro is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDUtah View Post
Yes, 25 lbs dry per K... is my goal. This equates to 40 lbs of actual compost per K.

There are reasons that I apply at my rate.
I would love to hear your reasons. I am always willing to learn something new.
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  #23  
Old 04-25-2009, 12:41 PM
dishboy dishboy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDUtah View Post
So far so good
I can imagine you are getting great color and response. Are you mixing in the Urea dry or liquidizing and spaying onto mix?. Have you considered Sulfate of Ammonia for the N source due to its effect on lowering PH as I assume you are alkaline in UTAH?
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  #24  
Old 04-25-2009, 12:49 PM
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JDUtah JDUtah is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dishboy View Post
I can imagine you are getting great color and response. Are you mixing in the Urea dry or liquidizing and spaying onto mix?. Have you considered Sulfate of Ammonia for the N source due to its effect on lowering PH as I assume you are alkaline in UTAH?
I am mixing it in dry. I have enough moisture problems (my supplier doesn't cover their piles and it has been a pretty rainy spring) and wouldn't dare add more water.

I was originally going to go with Ammonium Sulfate, and I might still. You are right, we are alkaline out here, and the compost I have has a pH above 7 to begin with. Not to mention an extension office study right here in my county recently determined a sulfur deficiency around here. Ammonium Sulfate looks like my product.

When I bought the fert to blend this first round my supplier (JDL) was out of Ammonium Sulfate. The urea is still chemically organic so it was my second choice. This fall I will prolly do the ammoium sulfate... mid summer gets little, if anything, added.

Last edited by JDUtah; 04-25-2009 at 12:58 PM.
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  #25  
Old 04-26-2009, 04:48 PM
NattyLawn NattyLawn is offline
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JD,

I like the blending idea, I just don't understand why you're doing it. If you're applying 46-0-0 to the compost, why not just apply it to the lawns? Urea is water soluble, right? If the customers want green, why not juice it, soil test, and then blend the minerals needed to help the soil? I can see adding blood meal or other slow to break down materials to the compost, just not the urea.
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  #26  
Old 04-26-2009, 05:00 PM
dishboy dishboy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NattyLawn View Post
JD,

I like the blending idea, I just don't understand why you're doing it. If you're applying 46-0-0 to the compost, why not just apply it to the lawns? Urea is water soluble, right? If the customers want green, why not juice it, soil test, and then blend the minerals needed to help the soil? I can see adding blood meal or other slow to break down materials to the compost, just not the urea.
Sounds like a lot less work to me.
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  #27  
Old 04-26-2009, 05:12 PM
growingdeeprootsorganicly growingdeeprootsorganicly is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDUtah View Post

If it compost/fert mixing wasn't an effective way of doing it, Barry would not be getting such rave reviews with his stuff from the guys in the chem forum.
the stuff he distributes, the urea is not composed in i believe.
it's a mix/blend


putting the urea in the post will only help gas off your N faster, and make the post go anaerobic depending on moisture,time in pile.
could hurt seed germination as well..?

put your post down and if needed follow up with the urea, i like SCU myself takes two seconds to push a spreader.

but we most all live and learn in our own way, remember too there's been many more before you, don't try too hard to reinvent the wheel
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  #28  
Old 04-26-2009, 05:35 PM
NattyLawn NattyLawn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by growingdeeprootsorganicly View Post
the stuff he distributes, the urea is not composed in i believe.
it's a mix/blend


putting the urea in the post will only help gas off your N faster, and make the post go anaerobic depending on moisture,time in pile.
could hurt seed germination as well..?

put your post down and if needed follow up with the urea, i like SCU myself takes two seconds to push a spreader.

but we most all live and learn in our own way, remember too there's been many more before you, don't try too hard to reinvent the wheel
Good point GDRO, I guess he's talking about Nutrients Plus. From what I understand, it's all blended together as separate ingredients. The composted poultry manure, biosolids and other "stuff" are all mixed together.

Back to my post, depending on your location, a customized blend of compost for each lawn depending on a soil analysis would be a good selling point IMO.
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  #29  
Old 04-26-2009, 08:54 PM
DeepGreenLawn DeepGreenLawn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NattyLawn View Post
a customized blend of compost for each lawn depending on a soil analysis would be a good selling point IMO.
In the perfect world sure... but unless there is a common issue, such as PH that you could use on a majority of lawns, such as your lime app, then it would be WAY too time consuming and labor intensive...
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  #30  
Old 04-26-2009, 08:58 PM
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treegal1 treegal1 is offline
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composting in the urea= good
blending just before an app = good

letting the compost sit and get all fouled up = another JD poke at whats correct= wrong
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