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#1
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alfalfa, corn meal help (pics)
I got my hands on alot of alfalfa meal and corn meal and have a few questions.
1) How much of either of these items to apply per 1000sqft? 2) How often should I apply? 3) Can or should I mix these items? This is on St. Augustine with an active fungus. Only synthetics have been applied for the past 5 years(nothing in 09). This lawn is irrigated. I have on hand ICT compost tea and NPP. ![]() ![]()
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#2
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wheres the fungus?
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#3
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nice halo's dude, get the tea out and lay down the corn meal, it seems to select for tricoderma( the anti fungus)))))) maybe a one or 2 time app of bills npp, just go easy with it........
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#4
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Are theses feed grade meals? Your application rate should be around 1lb per 100sqft for each. You could go up to 2lb if you are feeling squirlly.
I would save the alfalfa meal until after you get the bad fungus/bacteria under control. Apply the compost tea and the cornmeal and hope you have some good guys in that batch. Only synthetics for the last 5years, check your organic matter content, probably why you had a bloom of baddies.
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Terrapro Landscape Service Landscape maintenance and gardening services Licensed and insured professional horticulturalist Snow removal- commercial and residential www.terraprolandscape.com Equipment list- A bucket and some pruners. |
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#5
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20lbs per K with either of those feeds, you should get 10 or 12 weeks out of that, apply @ eight if you want more green than your first application is getting you. . If you have fungus and N levels are low I would throw 25 lbs/K of the corn meal for the first application.
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#6
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I'll preface this by stating I don't know a lot about southern grasses, I would first hit the lawn with the NPP. Then go back and apply the ICT, then come in with the meals or whatever it is your applying, in pretty close intervals. The NPP to kill the fungus, the ICT to bring back some biology, then the meals to feed the herd push some growth.
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#7
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Quote:
Compost does a soil good! |
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#8
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I don't want to get too far off playersc's topic but .......I just took over a lawn for a new client. Several spots of necrotic ring spot (or whatever it's being called today). No wonder, the previous LCO said to me "Good Luck, we really had to dump the Nitrogen on that lawn to keep it green and really increased the irrigation. too. My question about the fungus since I only I have a dozen spots totalling 20 sq ft: does it do any good to dig out the soil in these spots and change it?
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#9
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Quote:
They had to increase irrigation because of all of the cheap fertilizer they were applying, its like eating a bag of chips, where's my water The Thread subject: hit it with the NPP come back with the Tea, if it is that high on NPK you may need a little before mid July before it gets too hot, but pour on the compost in the fall and spray tea every 3 to 4 weeks. would love to see the after pictures next year You may have to use the instructions on the back of the box for new construction soils, we just bioremeadiated a AAA ball field where the applicator applied 16X the amount of dimension that he was supposed to 6 months ago. Needless to say the spring seeding program did not go so well, it is peachy now, 4 weeks later
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Bill The next frontier......is under your feet You can never change things by fighting the existing reality. To change something, build a new model that makes the existing model obsolete. Buckminister Fuller |
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#10
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Thanks Bill, I certainly intended to change the cultural practices but I just wondered about digging out the soil first. There's a little hole in my knowledge concerning disease and how to best handle it.
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