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  #71  
Old 07-11-2009, 12:03 PM
dishboy dishboy is offline
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Location: zone 6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
With the idea of storing carbs for the winter, in contrast with N forcing top growth, combined with the idea of healthy root growth in the spring -- Why would you want any fresh N at all?

The energy stored in the fall is going to be used in the spring. Either with unbalanced top and root growth or balanced top and root growth. What we believe is excessive top growth and is not excessive top growth may not be what the plant is actually doing.

We are in danger of wasting the stored energy with the spring app. of N - so why take the risk?
I want fresh N/protein because it helps the roots grow , feeds the herd, and thickens the lawn while growing conditions are ideal. Being the roots on my lawn are over eight inches long in clay early spring N does not seem to be inhibiting growth. It is OK that we do not agree.
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  #72  
Old 07-12-2009, 07:29 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Can't argue with success.
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*
Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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  #73  
Old 07-12-2009, 01:44 PM
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Grohorganic Grohorganic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drugrep View Post
People really need to stop with word "Organic" and change to "Natural"

Elements are inorganic. Water is inorganic.

You can have a natural source of P, but it is still inorganic.
this is the one thing i can really get behind at this time......

bill growing wannabe, I will buy you guys a plane ticket to come down for the cage match, winner takes all. ROFL. with respect.
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  #74  
Old 07-13-2009, 02:06 PM
Turbozcs2003 Turbozcs2003 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrC View Post
My neighbor switched over to espoma last year and has had impressive results. I know it can be done cheaper than buying it in the bag I just don't have enough time to research all this. I went to the local nursery to get some espoma lawn food but was redirected to two other products Organica and Ringer Lawn Restore. Again, I'm sure there are better products or cheaper ways to get the same ingedients and I fully intend on researching soon but for now which would be my best option Organica, Ringer, or Espoma?
Thanks
I used to use Ringer Lawn Restore when it was available in my area at my old home. Cheapo Depot used to carry it and it was reasonable priced. I used it along with some synthetic each year on my old house. I had a very nice lawn.

At my new home I did the same thing. Then A couple years ago I switched over to Nutrients Plus organic. A local landscape designer I met online here carries it. I have had some soil samples taken and he customizes a program for me. I drop by and pick up enough for the following year. I have also had to ammend the soil with some calcitic lime to bring up the ph.

Myself I cant be bothered to digest all the different opinions on what is happening to the soil. I am not a soil scientist and everyone here will tell you to spread compost, use compost tea, etc I think you just want to add organic matter, have some patients, do a soil sample. If you choose an organic fertilzer, cut high and water properly you have half the battle won.
I also spot spray any weeds as needed but dont have much of an issue since the turf is nice and thick.

I have a sandy loam base when I built the house. I just want to spread something which will work, cut the lawn high, water enough and take a soil sample once a year. I dont mulch my clippings since I have enough debris draged into my house by the dog, so I just compost the clippings and use them in other projects when I make more beds for shrubs etc.

To me this isnt rocket science, use some common sence and realize it may take some time if you have poor soil.

Conversly you can have some lawn service screw everything up. One neighbor has chem lawn fertilize theirs, it looks OK but burns up come July.
Another has "Bubba's" lawn service come in and mow, too cheap to fertilize. Lawn was very nice a few years ago before they moved in, prior people fertilized and mowed properly. Bubba cuts at about 2" and has scalped it to death. They dont fertilize nor water, so now the lawn is all clover, plantain, and crab grass.
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  #75  
Old 07-13-2009, 06:54 PM
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phasthound phasthound is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbozcs2003 View Post
I used to use Ringer Lawn Restore when it was available in my area at my old home. Cheapo Depot used to carry it and it was reasonable priced. I used it along with some synthetic each year on my old house. I had a very nice lawn.

At my new home I did the same thing. Then A couple years ago I switched over to Nutrients Plus organic. A local landscape designer I met online here carries it. I have had some soil samples taken and he customizes a program for me. I drop by and pick up enough for the following year. I have also had to ammend the soil with some calcitic lime to bring up the ph.

Myself I cant be bothered to digest all the different opinions on what is happening to the soil. I am not a soil scientist and everyone here will tell you to spread compost, use compost tea, etc I think you just want to add organic matter, have some patients, do a soil sample. If you choose an organic fertilzer, cut high and water properly you have half the battle won.
I also spot spray any weeds as needed but dont have much of an issue since the turf is nice and thick.

I have a sandy loam base when I built the house. I just want to spread something which will work, cut the lawn high, water enough and take a soil sample once a year. I dont mulch my clippings since I have enough debris draged into my house by the dog, so I just compost the clippings and use them in other projects when I make more beds for shrubs etc.

To me this isnt rocket science, use some common sence and realize it may take some time if you have poor soil.

Conversly you can have some lawn service screw everything up. One neighbor has chem lawn fertilize theirs, it looks OK but burns up come July.
Another has "Bubba's" lawn service come in and mow, too cheap to fertilize. Lawn was very nice a few years ago before they moved in, prior people fertilized and mowed properly. Bubba cuts at about 2" and has scalped it to death. They dont fertilize nor water, so now the lawn is all clover, plantain, and crab grass.
Sounds like you've got it nailed.
Keeping a lawn green and healthy and environmentally sane really isn't as hard as we make it sound. There is no need to follow doctrine, just some good common sense with some understanding of how plants grow will work wonders.
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  #76  
Old 07-15-2009, 03:09 PM
MrC MrC is offline
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thanks for the input!!!
I've been cutting high leaving the blades 3 1/2" , mulching the clippings, and watering once a week with a minimum of 1". Unfortunately, my lawn is browning up a bit. Is there anything I can do/add. The guy at the local nursery said that seaweed can't hurt and may possibly green it up. I thought about adding milorganite but am concerned about the smell.
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  #77  
Old 07-15-2009, 04:05 PM
roccon31 roccon31 is offline
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dont be afraid of the smell of milorganite, it is great stuff and does not really smell after a couple days. your lawn will be green most of the winter if you do apply it in the fall.

other than that, i would aerate it since we had so much rain this spring, even my lawn was turning yellow and i aerated last fall, and spread seaweed this spring. since the rain has stopped, my lawn has greened back up, and looks good again.
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  #78  
Old 07-15-2009, 09:40 PM
ICT Bill ICT Bill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrC View Post
thanks for the input!!!
I've been cutting high leaving the blades 3 1/2" , mulching the clippings, and watering once a week with a minimum of 1". Unfortunately, my lawn is browning up a bit. Is there anything I can do/add. The guy at the local nursery said that seaweed can't hurt and may possibly green it up. I thought about adding milorganite but am concerned about the smell.
I was hang'n with Barry today in NJ, he brought up a great point about kelp and how useful it is with heat stress on turf this time of year as it get hotter and dryer

His suggestion was spray at a 3 gallon per 1000 (water) rate with NPP and kelp mixed, the NPP helps with water retention (natural polymer) and the kelp helps with heat stress
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  #79  
Old 07-15-2009, 11:25 PM
MrC MrC is offline
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Unfortunately as a homeowner i don't have access to kelp products like yours locally. The closest thing I found was Kelp Booster from Organica. Would that work? Hopefully that doesn't stir up a debate.
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  #80  
Old 07-16-2009, 06:22 PM
Prolawnservice Prolawnservice is offline
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Just buy a gallon and use it till you run out. Its available from barry or I'm sure several other mail order places.
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