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  #21  
Old 12-01-2009, 08:32 PM
mnms0562000 mnms0562000 is offline
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[QUOTE=Cleve;3196644]
Now, if you would just do a like a similar photo shoot and instructions on how to do the carb rebuild, I would be most happy. Finally just took it to the dealer and let him do it. [/QUOTE


Let me find my camera, and I'll Start taking pictures.
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  #22  
Old 12-01-2009, 10:18 PM
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deere615 deere615 is offline
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wow I never saw this thread before nice job on posting all the pictures! But yeah I did mine the first time then the other 2 times I took it to the dealer!
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  #23  
Old 04-24-2010, 12:32 AM
Rick54 Rick54 is offline
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Roger, thanks so much for your posts on this drive cable replacement. I tackled this project today on the same mower that I own. I could not have possibly done it without your excellent pictures and text!!
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  #24  
Old 04-24-2010, 07:07 AM
Roger Roger is offline
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Rick, glad the pics and text helped.

I had to make a second replacement a couple of weeks ago. Unlike the first cable that had a kink at the top, right down from the adjustment point, the second one failed at the braided cable/hook connector at the top end. Most of the strands had broken where the cable is molded into the hook itself.

Before I put the new one on, I wrapped several wraps of duct tape at the top end, right below the adjustment screws point. My intent was to relieve some of the bending in the cable at that point. Knowing my first one broke at that point, I tried to mount the replacement in a way that minimized the sharp bend. However, the design just makes that change difficult. The cables need to be tied wrapped to the handles because the bag comes in and out, and the cable will get hooked if not tied down tight.

When I made the second replacement a couple of weeks ago, the time from start to finish was only about 1.5 hours, unlike the five or six the first time around. I put the mower up on a table this time (saved my back). Also, I pressure washed everything down as clean as possible before starting. Of course, I knew the sequence to take things in and out this time, and it went very smoothly. The whole process was quick and I was able to do it after my daily mowing schedule, and I did not loose any work time. I had seen the cable failing, so made the replacement before it broke entirely.

How did your cable break? I'm concluding that this cable may be a weak point in the design. Having said that, we use this machine heavily every day. The first failure happened at about 300 hours, the second one after another 350 hours. How about the hours on your machine? Perhaps I should get a cable and be prepared for another failure at mid-season this year.
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  #25  
Old 04-24-2010, 11:40 AM
Rick54 Rick54 is offline
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Roger, my cable got caught on something while I was mowing and got a kink in it. No amount of adjusting would make the drive work correctly after that. Thankfully the new cable fixed the problem.

It took me about 3 hours to replace the cable. Like I said, without your help I would have NEVER figured it out. A lot of time was spent trying to hook the end of the cable on the clutch lever. Holding the lever forward while hooking the cable on with one hand took at least 30 minutes for me. Once that was done it went back together fairly quickly.

Please know that your efforts to document this process were truly appreciated!!
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  #26  
Old 04-24-2010, 07:42 PM
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deere615 deere615 is offline
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yes they are a weak point for these mowers I replaced a total of 3 on my 2 mowers, But for as much use as they get they are not that bad imo
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2007 Chevy 3500HD Dump
2003 Chevy 2500HD


6x16 Tandem Trailer
5x10 SS Trailer
5x8 Dump Trailer
Bobcat CT225 tractor-loader
Wright Stander 48" RH & 48" X
Quick 36”
JD GT225
(2)Honda HRX 217's
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  #27  
Old 05-10-2010, 08:32 PM
JCanaday JCanaday is offline
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Great tutorial! My problem is a little more simple - my drive belt has come off. I'm trying to replace it but, I'm stuck (literally) at removing the Pivot Arm (drawing item # 6). While the arm has the slots for the pin (#20), I can't make out that there is a pin in there. I have the thin plate off and, mine looks exactly like your photo (Thin plate has been removed) but, I can't get the pivot arm off. I've even tried light heating with a torch (until the base started softening). Any suggestions? This is a HRX217HXA, purchased in 2005 - if that helps.
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  #28  
Old 05-10-2010, 11:17 PM
Roger Roger is offline
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You must be using a different drawing from the one I was using. Your part numbers make no sense. Here is a link for the drawing of my mower:

http://www.planopower.com/store/hond...assembly.shtml

Maybe you could post a link to the drawing you are using. I'm not able to follow your explanation without an appropriate drawing.
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  #29  
Old 05-11-2010, 12:00 AM
JCanaday JCanaday is offline
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Sorry. I was referring to the drawing that was in the comment from Restorob (dated 07-02-2009):

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...aWBShutter.jpg

My Swing Arm (6) seems to be a press fit into shaft (8) with no pin (20). Other than that, mine looks identical to the pictures in your post of 07-04-2009 - right up to the one captioned: Another thin plate covers.... But from your description, it sounds like after you removed the "thin plate", your swing arm all but fell off. After I remove the thin plate, I'm still seeing what is shown in the next picture (Thin plate has been removed) but, I don't see a pin even though it looks like there should be one there. I can't tell from that picture if your pin is visible there or not. But I just can't get that swing arm off. Did yours just come right off?
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  #30  
Old 05-11-2010, 12:17 AM
Roger Roger is offline
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post #10 shows the arm off, and my comment says "careful, the pin will fall out." Frankly, I cannot recall exactly the sequence there, but I don't remember having any trouble getting #6 off.

I'm confused about #6 being press fit onto the shaft. That doesn't make any sense. How could it be manufactured? It is possible that #6 was placed over the post, #8, when hot, and allowed to cool for a shrink fit. That procedure is not typically done for these mass marketed machines, and for a simple connection as this one. Surely, the design is intended for these two parts to be separated.

Look for another parts diagram for earlier models. Try plano, or boatsparts.net for parts manuals.

Can you shoot some pics and post? Maybe there is something more obvious at work here. There are many others who follows these threads, people that are a whole lot smarter than me.

Maybe you can look to parts diagrams for earlier models. Mine is 2009, a couple of years after your model. Perhaps there is a design change in the intervening years.
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