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  #21  
Old 07-14-2009, 10:18 PM
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It reminds me of a landscape job I did about 8 years ago. The guy had been to Japan and found a very old antique bell from a budhist monestery. He bought it and brought it home. I designed and installed a full Japanese garden for him with the bell incorporated in the tea house garden. Unfortunately he died tragically of Cancer 3 months after I finished the install. He didn't even know he was sick until 2 weeks before he died.
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  #22  
Old 07-15-2009, 11:23 AM
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BrandonV BrandonV is online now
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thats a shame
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  #23  
Old 07-15-2009, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrandonV View Post
here are some pics... nothing makes me angrier than a $$$ with poorly designed/constructed landscape anything.

i'm going to replace ALL of these little well lights, I hate them so much. and Joey I want an honest opinion on how to light this bell... is it the comet that has a flush mount? will that be too hot against the wood? better method? solaris on each side? as you can see the wonderboy that put all this in has a 50w flood shining on it, only problem is where I'm taking the photo from is at the front door... which is also lit by more lovely well lights.

oh how do you like the drain? I'm glad they used green grates, blend in nicely
Well I would definitely recommend against the use of Comet-FM's or any other fixture mounted to the small bell structure. You don't want to take away from it during the day. I think I would consider using our small Polaris MR11 Bullet Light to up light the inner posts and use the spill to light/silhouette the bell itself. I would like to hear others opinions. Being that it looks like you have 360deg. views its not a good idea to set lights back like they did and flood light it. To much glare produced. In the perimeter of the bell area you could put some area lights to give some more ambiance and illumination on the foliage and walk way.

I will see if I have some pictures that apply........

Also I would replace those green grates with brass grates or at minimum paint them.
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  #24  
Old 07-15-2009, 11:37 AM
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JoeyD JoeyD is offline
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Polaris-B25-20-WB

http://www.uniquelighting.com/Spec%20Sheets/Polaris.pdf

http://www.uniquelighting.com/product_pages/POLARIS.htm

This picture is about actual size.....



Last edited by JoeyD; 07-15-2009 at 11:42 AM.
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  #25  
Old 07-15-2009, 12:41 PM
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Those "Well Lights" are used inappropriately.

This appears to be a 360 degree viewing situation. Am I right?

Those are poorly selected "Well Lights" for that application. I do everything possible to avoid using wells because they are always a maintenance pain-in-the-butt. If I have to use a well, I'll go for the best shielded and regressed luminaire design I can find.

The basic problem is that you are lighting a black object. You will have rely on reflections to define the shape or to define it by silhouetting it against... something. But I think silhouetting may be boring.

You may want to consider mounting your fixtures high (on the house?) or go with with an in-grade unit with enough glare shielding and regression to avoid glare. This will provide some reflections but high will do the best I think.

I guess you could mount MR8's on the timber stand but that would be ugly too. Not to mention the unstable lamp. Perhaps the DG XT LED would work but even it's going to stick out like a sore thumb.

I would go to height and use the tightest spot I could find - Check out the GE EZX 20W 7 degree spot MR16. It's a "hipped" lamp and won't fit in all manufacturers' bullets. Check first.

I would also advise the client that the bell will "shine" at night much better if there's a light coat of wax helping the light to reflect off the black surface.

Tom
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  #26  
Old 07-15-2009, 03:40 PM
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thanks gents, I think I might try it w/ 4 mr11s one on each post, anything has to be better than a 50w flood in the face
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  #27  
Old 07-15-2009, 05:23 PM
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Ok Brandon, here is my take on the bell design. I wouldn't do any of the techniques that have been suggested for the bell. I wouldn't want to see any fixtures sitting by that bell. I would cut a dado groove on the bottom side of the crossbar and insert a Lightwild Project linear warm white LED light. This will down light the bell and will be completely hidden from view. You will have to be creative about drilling and hiding the wire but it is doable.
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  #28  
Old 07-15-2009, 06:09 PM
Mike M Mike M is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro-Scapes View Post
I use that very same tester all the time Tom. I took the liberty of cutting the socket off one of the leads and attaching them right to a set of meter test leads. No more fumbeling with the meter trying to stick the leads in a socket while balancing a lamp thats getting hot.
Billy, what do you mean by this? More info, please.
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  #29  
Old 07-15-2009, 06:14 PM
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Tomwilllight Tomwilllight is offline
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Linear LEDs

Tim,

That's an interesting idea. I certainly like it better than sticking any surface mount fixtures on the bell's log structure. I would want to take a long look at the log itself to determine how strong it is.

Could there be a heat build up problem with recessing the LED into wood? Heat rises and wood is a fair insulator.

I checked the Lightwild literature and it looks possible to order a wide angle lens and spec the length of the LEDs to be near the width of the bell. That may end up with a box shape lighted area. That could be interesting.

I would still think a lot about how to reflect light off the apparently mat surface. It's really hard to light black objects unless they are shiny. I still think that's Brandon's central problem.

Tom
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  #30  
Old 07-15-2009, 06:46 PM
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I have a plan... I'm off to lowes to buy some krylon. I think a nice gold finish should do the trick :-)
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