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  #11  
Old 07-14-2009, 11:50 PM
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aric43085 aric43085 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanaMac View Post
We don't use CPVC in the first place. Straight PVC.
PVC coming out of the backflow preventer is tacky when above ground. And at 7000' elevation the UV rays deteriorate it. I try to go copper to ground level, and transition to PVC.
Simple solution, Use a copper 3/4" female with a PVC 3/4"male X 1"slip.
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  #12  
Old 07-14-2009, 11:56 PM
Without A Drought Without A Drought is offline
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1, always use a female copper adapter to go to PVC.

2, I don't really care about painting sod rolls, but since we're on topic, if your irrigation contractor is installing lawn heads in dirt, based upon your paint lines, don't lay an extra 2' of sod behind the head... then we have to drill holes in the back of the turret to water the grass behind the head. or move it.
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  #13  
Old 07-15-2009, 12:00 AM
esnipe8 esnipe8 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Without A Drought View Post
1, always use a female copper adapter to go to PVC.

2, I don't really care about painting sod rolls, but since we're on topic, if your irrigation contractor is installing lawn heads in dirt, based upon your paint lines, don't lay an extra 2' of sod behind the head... then we have to drill holes in the back of the turret to water the grass behind the head. or move it.
Last time I check sod rolls come out in rectangular shape, so if you have a curve in your sod line, you have to cut it.
Thats what I was talking about.
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  #14  
Old 07-15-2009, 12:01 AM
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DanaMac DanaMac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aric43085 View Post
Simple solution, Use a copper 3/4" female with a PVC 3/4"male X 1"slip.
But what I mentioned, was that the interior of a PVC male adapter is smaller then the copper. It bottlenecks it slightly more.

I will try and take pictures and measurements tomorrow to describe better.
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  #15  
Old 07-15-2009, 12:07 AM
Without A Drought Without A Drought is offline
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Originally Posted by esnipe8 View Post
Last time I check sod rolls come out in rectangular shape, so if you have a curve in your sod line, you have to cut it.
Thats what I was talking about.
that's fine. what i was talking about was idiot landscapers over-ordering sod, then extending the lawn behind the installed heads.

and it was a quiet knock on you offering landscaping advice in the irrigation forum.
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  #16  
Old 07-15-2009, 12:11 AM
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aric43085 aric43085 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanaMac View Post
But what I mentioned, was that the interior of a PVC male adapter is smaller then the copper. It bottlenecks it slightly more.

I will try and take pictures and measurements tomorrow to describe better.
I know what your talking about. I used to install them like that for about five years. If you use a copper 3/4"slip X 1"female to a 1"PVC male then there is definitely no restriction. Still the interior wall of the 3/4" PVC male X 1" slip fitting is about the same opening of a 3/4" backflow valve.
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  #17  
Old 07-15-2009, 12:16 AM
esnipe8 esnipe8 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Without A Drought View Post
that's fine. what i was talking about was idiot landscapers over-ordering sod, then extending the lawn behind the installed heads.

and it was a quiet knock on you offering landscaping advice in the irrigation forum.
HaHa, Im sorry I want to make sure I can still be a part of the "irrigation forum" club

You win
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  #18  
Old 07-15-2009, 12:43 AM
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Wet_Boots Wet_Boots is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanaMac View Post
I prefer the other way around. Male copper to female PVC. At least for our typical residentials, and if done correctly. The interior diameter of a PVC male adapter tends to be much smaller than the interior of the copper male adapter. For ours here, I am generally speaking of 3/4" copper, to 1" PVC. A lot here go from 3/4" copper male adapter, to a 3/4"x1" FxS PVC adapter. I would prefer a 1" coupler with a bushing glued in.
Care to do some measurements on this? You might be surprised. If you really want to do the transition correctly, you'd go from a 3/4 CxFPT fitting to a 3/4-inch sch 80 TOE nipple, and then to the valve manifold.
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Old 07-15-2009, 12:53 AM
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Waterlogged Waterlogged is offline
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For those who install, this might seem counter-intuitive but I have had good results putting nozzles on the heads before installing them, on an install. You only have to be somewhat careful piping and it goes without saying that you have to install the filters. This saves lots of time having to go back and flush and nozzle. Worst case, last couple of heads are plugged up. With a remote, this is not a problem. I use RainBird 1804 exclusively. Try it you might be surprised.
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  #20  
Old 07-15-2009, 01:20 AM
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Waterit Waterit is offline
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Originally Posted by Waterlogged View Post
For those who install, this might seem counter-intuitive but I have had good results putting nozzles on the heads before installing them, on an install. You only have to be somewhat careful piping and it goes without saying that you have to install the filters. This saves lots of time having to go back and flush and nozzle. Worst case, last couple of heads are plugged up. With a remote, this is not a problem. I use RainBird 1804 exclusively. Try it you might be surprised.
We pre-assemble the sprays with funny 90's, nozzles, and screens, then start flushing. Install heads from valve out to end of line. With no funny 90or head on we get a great flush, no "last couple of heads plugged up". Same goes for rotors.
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