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  #11  
Old 07-24-2009, 04:22 PM
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Pro-Scapes Pro-Scapes is offline
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Dryconns can work if done right. I have dug up several that were fine several years later. I also have probably 100 hubs out there that are done in the cast method with the solder pot and dryconns. I think CAST has hands down the best amnufacture splice method out there if you are going to run hubs.

It does seem to me the hubs used to go in quicker than the T's do but with the T I can have better control over my wire routing
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  #12  
Old 07-26-2009, 02:30 AM
David Gretzmier David Gretzmier is online now
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In my opinion, I am already doing this as fast and as cheap as I can to deliver a quality product and installation to the customer that will last 20 years plus. and I get price resistance from folks who live in 2 million dollar homes, as well as 350,000 homes. spending more money on more expensive fixtures, wire, trans, connections only makes things worse. The truth is when people want great lighting, they will pay for it.

I know what it costs me to live, and I know what all my labor and materials cost, and the bottom line is I am at the bottom dollar, and this is a really tough gig to keep steady work coming in just in bids, even if you have a successful business already.
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  #13  
Old 08-04-2009, 08:12 AM
kaferhaus kaferhaus is offline
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Quote:
So what I am saying is; in our main market - to keep the prices as affordable as possible - we have to get a lighting job done fairly quickly. We take time and do good work. But if we took a little more time to solder joints, use heat-shrinks, bury the wire in conduit 12" deep, etc. our labor would make the job cost so much that nobody would hire us to do lighting. As it is, because of the brand we use, and because of our company overhead, etc. I am already priced a little higher than most when it comes to lighting. I know where most people's breaking points are for lighting and we're pretty much straddling that line already
Same here Jim.... there's a fine line dollar wise on getting the job or not and still being able to make a reasonable profit on most of these jobs.

Our warranty calls are nearly zero.... and we've done the "conduit, soldered connections, watertight junction boxes...etc" WHEN the money was there to do it. Those jobs are rare here. What I usually do is offer them 3 options but when I tell them the "fixture" warranty is the same for all three the only warranty extention they get is on the installation.... you guess which one they chosse most often.

The "big, cost is of little importance jobs" are almost always local government jobs.... the "specs" require it and after all they're spending our money, not theirs.

We've done a few "corporate headquarters" installs that were similar but again the specs called for it.

There are no "local" code issues here on LV installations.
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  #14  
Old 08-04-2009, 11:32 AM
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Pro-Scapes Pro-Scapes is offline
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I would lose a buck a connection and solder before I would use a twist and snap device. 1 call back and your savings are blown let alone what it does to your reputation. If you are going to loose a job over a few bucks a connection your not presenting it right to begin with.
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  #15  
Old 08-04-2009, 04:02 PM
bx24 bx24 is offline
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Originally Posted by Pro-Scapes View Post
I would lose a buck a connection and solder before I would use a twist and snap device. 1 call back and your savings are blown let alone what it does to your reputation. If you are going to loose a job over a few bucks a connection your not presenting it right to begin with.

I have 3 bags of them and tried them twice...I just use silicone and normal wire nuts....Hence, I do not like them for res jobs.
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  #16  
Old 08-05-2009, 08:27 PM
David Gretzmier David Gretzmier is online now
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All I know is, the grease wire nut has been around a LONG time. I've undone grease nut connections on some irrigations systems with brass valves and the really old timey multi dial rain bird controller. easily 25 years old plus. no corrosion. and still working. the oldest ace's Ive found are around 12-15 years old, and typcially 10-20 percent are corroded to pieces because of improper sealing methods on the heat shrink tubing. I'll give you the pull out argument, but grease nuts are the only thing out there that I feel comfortable with employees using and still expect my systems to last 20 years.
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  #17  
Old 08-07-2009, 04:56 AM
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INTEGRA Bespoke Lighting INTEGRA Bespoke Lighting is offline
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I have been using the DryConn's (silicone filled wire nuts) here for 11 years. I would say 90+ Percent of all my connections are made with them. I have never had an issue with them because they are being installed correctly. If you ensure you do not strip too much insulation off the wire, and you ensure that you completely tighten the nut onto the wires, and you ensure you use the right size DryConn for the application you will not have any issues at all.

That being said. Using a 333 (yellow) indoor Marrettes and stuffing some silicone inside is NOT an acceptable substitution. I see this from trunk slammers and 'jack of all trades' types far too often.

I have also found that the IDEAL silicone filled wire nut is not as user friendly, and much more expensive, then the King Safety DryConn.

As a testament to the DryConn's ability to make a dry and strong connection; a couple of weeks ago I was doing some renovations to a system I installed 10 years ago. I took the time to open up some of the original DryConn connections I made and found the copper to be clean / oxidation free. Works for me!
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  #18  
Old 08-07-2009, 04:20 PM
David Gretzmier David Gretzmier is online now
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I'll agree with the ideal/king safety nuts. I have used the safety ones for small wires in a pinch, but I prefer drycons. drycons seem to have way more grease in them, and I don't think the yellow safeties are rated for burial. they are fine in tree connections and on surface mounted stuff like deck lights and such. for burial, I go drycon.
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  #19  
Old 08-07-2009, 06:32 PM
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Pro-Scapes Pro-Scapes is offline
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I think I have installed 1 pr of dryconns without soldering the connection first. This was on the back side of an arbor in a J box.

I have hundreds of soldered and dryconned connections out there with no failures. I actually dug up a failed buchanan crimp today from another installer in my area.
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  #20  
Old 08-07-2009, 11:06 PM
klkanders klkanders is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro-Scapes View Post
I actually dug up a failed buchanan crimp today from another installer in my area.
What failed Billy? Not crimped properly?

Keith
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