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Old 08-02-2009, 09:01 PM
steelstrehle steelstrehle is offline
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Kawasaki motor - no spark

I have a Ransomes with a Kawasaki FB460V motor.

There is no spark and at first I thought it was a switch that was causing the problem. This thing has a safety switch for the blades...transmission...and safety handle.

After many attempts to figure out what switch is causing problems, I cut the red wire that comes down from the key and runs along the side of the moter to the coil and cut the black wire that is attached to the throttle with a screw. I spliced the two wires together (I used the red wire end that is attached to the coil) thinking this would override any switches and throw the right signal to the coil.

The red wire that I cut goes directly to the coil. There is another wire coming off of the coil and it is plugged into a small harness on the right side of the motor (if you are standing behind it). I'm assuming this is a switch for the oil level???

At any rate... I still am not getting a spark. Should my little trick to bypass the switches have worked or did I do it wrong? If it was done correctly...is there a way to further check if it is the coil? Is there a better way to check the switches if I were to wire everything back up?
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Old 08-02-2009, 09:30 PM
DiyDave DiyDave is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steelstrehle View Post
I have a Ransomes with a Kawasaki FB460V motor.

There is no spark and at first I thought it was a switch that was causing the problem. This thing has a safety switch for the blades...transmission...and safety handle.

After many attempts to figure out what switch is causing problems, I cut the red wire that comes down from the key and runs along the side of the moter to the coil and cut the black wire that is attached to the throttle with a screw. I spliced the two wires together (I used the red wire end that is attached to the coil) thinking this would override any switches and throw the right signal to the coil.

The red wire that I cut goes directly to the coil. There is another wire coming off of the coil and it is plugged into a small harness on the right side of the motor (if you are standing behind it). I'm assuming this is a switch for the oil level???

At any rate... I still am not getting a spark. Should my little trick to bypass the switches have worked or did I do it wrong? If it was done correctly...is there a way to further check if it is the coil? Is there a better way to check the switches if I were to wire everything back up?
Best to wire it back up the way it was, then diagnose it with a meter or light, if this is a pull start motor, no battery or starter, chances are, all switches go to ground the signal, if the switch is tripped. Look for continuity with ground if you have bad switch(S).
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Old 08-02-2009, 09:54 PM
steelstrehle steelstrehle is offline
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Originally Posted by DiyDave View Post
Best to wire it back up the way it was, then diagnose it with a meter or light, if this is a pull start motor, no battery or starter, chances are, all switches go to ground the signal, if the switch is tripped. Look for continuity with ground if you have bad switch(S).
Without a power source...how do I check it with a light?
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Old 08-02-2009, 09:55 PM
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Restrorob Restrorob is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steelstrehle View Post
The red wire that I cut goes directly to the coil. There is another wire coming off of the coil and it is plugged into a small harness on the right side of the motor (if you are standing behind it). I'm assuming this is a switch for the oil level???
No, That "switch" is a ignition igniter ("Control Unit"). It must be hooked to the coil, It tells the coil when to spark. If this red wire you cut goes to the unit harness (up the handlebar) leave it disconnected, Doing this eliminates all the safety switches from the ignition system. With the coil and igniter hooked together and red wire disconnected you should have spark.

If you now have spark test all safety/kill switches one at a time with a multimeter set to ohm's scale as DiyDave mentioned.

If you still have no spark with the coil and igniter connected with the red wire disconnected, You will need to test both the coil and igniter to see which is faulty with a multimeter set on ohm's scale as listed below;


Choose the igniter "Control Unit" that resembles your's for proper test specs.






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Old 08-02-2009, 10:03 PM
DiyDave DiyDave is offline
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I yield to rob's analysis of your situation. My description of the way to find the continuity, was general, in nature. Knowing it is hand starter, you should use the meter.
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Old 08-03-2009, 09:23 PM
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1993lx172 1993lx172 is offline
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I know for a fact that when a Kawasaki does what you're saying it's doing it's time for a new ignition module (the thing in the top right of Restrorob's diagram). My mower has a Kawi in it and so far it has done this twice. My advise to you would be to repair the wires you cut and just replace the ignition module. The coil should be fine so you shouldn't have to worry about that.
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