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#1
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Bury old driveway problems?
I am getting mixed results from 3 different people I got advice for my driveway. Over a period of 20 years my driveway has sunk about a foot or so and I decided to just lay dirt and some gravel on top. Now I am ready to get someone to pour some concrete to make a sturdier driveway. I asked a few people and here is the top 3 things I was told.
1. If the original drive way had a few cracks in it then the new driveway will be fine. 2. You need to take up all that dirt/gravel and crack up that entire driveway then put the dirt back on top. 3. You need to take all of that old drive way completely out. So I am confused on what to do. The driveway is 17ft by 22ft. If I do not rip out or crack up the old driveway what is the worse that can happen? |
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#2
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The new driveway could sink if the base is not installed properly.
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New Horizons Land Management 1996 F-250 crew cab short bed FOR SALE 16' landscape trailer FOR SALE 14' enclosed trailer for hardscapes 6.5' x 12' 12,000 lbs dump trailer 60" Kubota ZD21 FOR SALE 60" JD 997 36" Stander for sale Sthil Power Tools FOR SALE Weber 7,000 lb force revs. plate tamp |
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#3
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You definitely don't want dirt fill under your new driveway. I can't say for sure that the old driveway must come out, but it probably should. Then the base should be installed using compacted gravel, with your new concrete on top.
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#4
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Just start fresh from the base up and it will be good for another 20 years.
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www.grandviewlandscaping.com |
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#5
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Not so sure you need to go the concrete route.
I have a long time, old buddy that owns an asphalt driveway company. Here is what I have learned from him: If the existing driveway is cracked, settled, and in bad shape; you need to take it up and start over. If you want it to last 20(+) years - Remove all the asphalt. Install the base. Around 6-8 inches AFTER compaction. Use a 1.5" crusher run. Different areas have different names. Many asphalt contractors say they do a 4" layer of asphalt. Thats 2 inches of base and 2 inches of top coat. You need 4 inches of base and no less than 2 inches of top coat....after compaction. Stay away from a contractor that has a dinky little roller. Those guys are gypsies. ,
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"It's You vs. You" "People Throw Rocks At Things That Shine" My Equipment Brag List: -1 CAT hat -16 pairs of Hanes socks (the Heavy Duty model), many with holes. -12 pairs of underwear, ranging from Joe Boxers to Jockey, many are in need of replacement. (no more photo requests please) -hundreds of t-shirts. Some w/ grease stains, some torn & tattered. -7 pairs of jeans, ranging from Levis to Polo to GAP. 1/2 of them have holes in 'em. -1 belt -1 pair of old worn out Nike shoes. |
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#6
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After compaction is key for asphalt guys. Make sure its 4+" before compaction for both layers. I would dig down to the orig base, add a large stone crusher run base layer like DVS said, then maybe 2" 3/4" CR top gravel layer to level. Geotex is also cheap insurance.
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2004 Chevy 3500 Dually 4x4 CC/LB D-Max/Allison Western 8'6" MVP+ w/ wings Western Pro-Flo 2 Salter |
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#7
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Quote:
Spend the money, rip out everything, and start fresh. That way you're sure that nothing underneath is going to sink.
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2011 F350 XLT 4x4 SuperCab, 6.7L, 6' bed, 6000 miles w/ 8' HD Fisher plow 2007 Honda Element LX 97000 miles 2008 Bri-mar 10k dump trailer 2003 Haulmark 6x14 Enclosed trailer
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