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  #41  
Old 08-13-2009, 09:42 PM
fall46 fall46 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Leary View Post
YOU are the one that needs to get with with it it; what you suggest is thirty years behind the times, along with the 2" brass pop-ups.

Mike check your PM
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  #42  
Old 08-13-2009, 09:46 PM
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Mike Leary Mike Leary is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fall46 View Post
Mike check your PM
I did; Boots is full of it; you are right.
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  #43  
Old 08-13-2009, 10:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fall46 View Post
All I'm asking is whether the programable water bib would be the mechanism to make the water flow......



YES!

Holy SCh!TT. The pump makes the water go.
A valve, whether on the hose bib or installed on the main line, allows the water, provided by the pump, to go... If your valve, any type of valve, with any type of automation, is not in the open postion, as dictated by your programming and "automation" of the timer, then the pump will not cycle.

Look how pretty this one is.

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  #44  
Old 08-14-2009, 10:46 PM
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MUST be slow out there - 43 posts to give the poor guy an answer. Thanks for ending the misery, Matt.
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  #45  
Old 08-15-2009, 07:05 AM
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When the OP doesn't realize what a pressure switch on a pump is for, you're in for a bumpy flight.
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  #46  
Old 08-15-2009, 09:19 AM
fall46 fall46 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wet_Boots View Post
When the OP doesn't realize what a pressure switch on a pump is for, you're in for a bumpy flight.
With all due respect Boots inability to undestand the question is why this thread is 43 messages long. If this pump was going to supply multiple zones his advice is spot on, but thats not what I have.

Perhaps it was cheap humor for him to keep it going.
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  #47  
Old 08-15-2009, 09:45 AM
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Wet_Boots Wet_Boots is online now
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I understand the English language just fine, and I also understand that there is an infinite amount of pump lack-of-knowledge out there. To wit
Quote:
Originally Posted by fall46 View Post
Wet

Ok I will bite.....Lets say he adds the tank and pressure switch (what does that do anyways the pressure switch?). Explain to me how he turns the pump on without physically walking down to the pump hose or sprinkler. Maybe I'm missing something
The lack of knowledge this quote shows is almost staggering. If the clouds part, and the light of understanding creeps in, it behooves the seeker of advice to make it public that they 'get it' and then things can proceed apace.
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  #48  
Old 08-15-2009, 10:28 AM
fall46 fall46 is offline
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Fair comment..... the mechanics of the pressure tank I understand but the specifics of how the pressure switch interfaced to the tank was blurry...Does that one question negate my whole understanding of how the pump wolud work with a tank, no?

Boots your opinion is the project can only be done 1 way when in fact there is more than one, even after I conceded the pump tank would make sense etc and that if he wanted more optionality he should consider the tank and gave you credit for your recommendation...You seemed more focused on making a point than trying to offer soultion....your solution cost 100+....Mike's cost 30.00. Multiple zones your solution is correct. but thats not the case.

The clouds have indeed parted I came looking for advice as I this is what the forums are all about helping one another. Your solution would have indeed worked, but it would have cost more, required more additions to the pump, and in the end gave me a feature that I never wanted in the first place.

Lets put this to rest.....you win I dont know what a pressure switch is.
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  #49  
Old 08-15-2009, 10:48 AM
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There are many ways to go about things. Some ways are better than others, and some ways cost more, sometimes by a factor of ten times more. Turning a pump into a self-contained water system by way of adding a tank and pressure switch has the beauty of simplicity and economy. And no need to mess around with wiring in a circuit breaker box.

Whatever follows, for achieving automatic operation, is a separate add-on, and not related to the work on the pump. As for hose-bib timer valves, I can make no specific recommendations, since I never use them.

Again, this advice follow from a knowledge of costs. A standard pump relay is only rated for 25 amps, so you don't get to use it on a 30 amp circuit. You have to buy a more expensive one, and then you have the genuine concern that a more powerful relay, with a bigger coil, will overload a cheap controller, and fail to operate.
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  #50  
Old 08-15-2009, 12:53 PM
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By the way, strictly for the money, you can go cheap and skip using relays and tanks and pressure switches. Log into eBay and shop for "time switch" and find simple motorized clock switches that can handle the 30 amps the branch circuit is rated for.
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