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Old 07-16-2000, 01:21 PM
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Stonehenge Stonehenge is offline
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I've heard a little from you folks about flexible mortar (was it a urethane or epoxy?). I want to expand my repertoire of step options (going from patio into house) by offering a total brick step, brick riser, brick tread. <p>Can anyone give me some info about brand names I should look for, and how they are effectively used? I live in Wisconsin, so freezing is an issue.<p>Second - have you ever used something like a 4&quot; or 6&quot; concrete block as the foundation for a step structure, using the mortar above as the adhesive?<p>Thanks in advance
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Old 07-16-2000, 01:41 PM
paul paul is offline
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Stonehedge, we use the wall block as a base or footing for the stoop and use regluar paver bond as glue but the steps are epoxy, that way all parts fit and will move as one unit. you can saw cut the face off th wall block or reverse the block and use the backs of the units for your glue face. Problem with blocks are hollow and not as strong unless filled with gravel or mortar, seems like a lot of work?<p>----------<br>paul<br>
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Old 07-16-2000, 02:02 PM
steveair steveair is offline
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&lt;img src = http://content.communities.msn.com/isapi/fetch.dll?action=view_photo&ID_community=GuidosEquipmentPics&ID_Topic=16&ID_Message=149&gt;<p>Maybe not what you are thinking about, but heres what I used on this one.<p>Wall is out of YORK block, approx. 12&quot; by 8&quot; by 4&quot; height. The wall for stoop is only 2 block high (1 buried) and then a cap unit was used on top of the block. The caps were cut to go around circle and then I used pave tech paver pond, flexible, to attach the cap.<p>As to the strength of the paver bond, I will say this. I compacted the living day lights out of the inside of the stoop for about 10 mins with a plate compactor. The wall/cap didn't move at all, even when the compactor rubbed up against them. I allowed the bond to set for 2 days before I did the pavers inside. Also, I compacted the pavers in with the plate, and again, the caps did not flinch. I feel its got plenty of strength, maybe not for high commericial traffic, but plenty for residential light use. <p>Also, the york block do not have pins or grooves to hold on to each other, so they were also paver bonded to each other. they were flat, solid units, so there were no 'holes' in the blocks. <p>The caps units are only around 5 inch treads, but they work well for only 1 step. If another step were needed, I would of cut pavers in between the cap and next step to allow for 12&quot; tread.<p>Hope to be of help, maybe. Knowing the work you do, I'd imagine you are looking for something more complex.<p>steveair<p><p><br>&lt;font size=&quot;1&quot;&gt;Edited by: steveair<br><p><font size="1">Edited by: steveair
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Old 07-16-2000, 06:42 PM
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Stonehenge Stonehenge is offline
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I think I may have been confused by an earlier thread. Paul, do you have a mortar-like product you use as both an adhesive and as a between-the-joint mortar for pavers? This is what I was thinking of, but then looked through an earlier thread, and am now not sure. <p>Another application I was thinking of this for was for poolside work. A company I worked for 10+ years ago just used sand between the joints, but I've got to believe that meant sand would get into the pool and it's filtration system. Something like an epoxy would probably work well, but I'm hoping your experiences can guide me.<p>And Steveair - I'm wondering if my browser is out of date - it looks like you're posting a picture in your reply, but all I see is a tiny box with an 'X' in it in the upper left-hand corner (I use AOL 4.0).
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Old 07-16-2000, 10:26 PM
paul paul is offline
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Stonehedge, Sorry about that the flexible mortar you are asking about is 6 parts limestone screenings and one part portland. This is what we use for walkways made out of outcropping stone mix it dry and the rain or hose it down lightly to start setting up the portland. Just make sure your base is good.<br><br>This is not for between block or as a glue, it's design was for walkways that might heave or places where you don't want a lot of grit around, if I was going to use it near a pool i would increase the portland to 4 to 1 giving you a stronger bond on the stone but still allowing you to add more for repairs that might happen. We use epoxy to set pavers around pools not as a fill for the gap in pavers, it's a two part system with a short work time and your base must be perfect concrete. Also to keep sand from running out along the edge of the pool glue one paver to the next with a bead running top to bottom of the paver, be carefull when setting the paver don't drop it in but set down and slide it to meet the next one. <br><p>----------<br>paul<br>
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Old 07-16-2000, 10:34 PM
BRL BRL is offline
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Stonehenge,<br>I have AOL 5.0 and IE 5.0 and had the same problem. Had the same problem with Steve's last picture, however, the following time that I came back to check the thread it was there. Don't know how or why but try refresh button or check pictures the next time you sign on because it might work another time.
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