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  #11  
Old 07-10-2000, 11:40 AM
steveair steveair is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: morristown, nj
Posts: 1,073
Brl,<p>Just a quick question on the type of adhesive you are using. What kind is it?<p>there are 'other' concrete adhesives out there, and I have found that some of them are just garbage. I ran out one day and bought a tube of 'concrete adhesive' at the hardware store and the stuff was garbage. Had to go back and use paver bond anyway.<p>If you aren't using a product designed for paver/wall work, I would have to say this could be the problem also. <p>steveair<br>
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  #12  
Old 07-10-2000, 05:43 PM
BRL BRL is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Somerset, NJ
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Steve, <br>I used VersaLock Retaining Wall Systems brand concrete adhesive. That was the only one at that supplier and that was the brand of the cap that I used so I figured it had to be the right one to use. I'll use a different brand next time just because of the label issue that I mentioned. I can't believe they'd sell a product without complete directions. I kind of thought that maybe a different product would be used for stair applications. A cap usually isn't subject to people walking on it, so maybe cap glue isn't made the same way another glue would be for stairs.
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  #13  
Old 07-10-2000, 10:19 PM
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Stonehenge Stonehenge is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Midwest
Posts: 1,277
I use PL brand polyurethane construction adhesive quite a bit. The stuff seems to work really well (but not so well when wet). Amount of time before it can have foot traffic is about 90 mins. I can usually give a cap block a full boot in the face after 90 mins (steel toed boot, that is) and not have it move a smidge. It's about $5 for a big tube (don't recall the # of ozs). <p>In the cooler months it gets hard to spread, but letting it sit on the dashboard of a running vehicle on defrost warms it up pretty good.
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  #14  
Old 07-11-2000, 10:05 PM
kermit kermit is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 138
I've used almost everything in the past ten years to glue stairs. Thought that the epoxy mixes were the way to go but their cost as well as the amount of waste turned me off. With our northern freeze thaw cycles the epoxy bond would be broken and call backs are too expensive. I've been using PL Premium for about three years and have had very few problems. If someone has a better product let's hear about it.
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  #15  
Old 07-11-2000, 10:54 PM
paul paul is offline
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Chicago,Ill.
Posts: 1,625
Our list of adhesives is kind of long. For most paver work we use Unilock Paver Bond, for low traffic wall cap use Paver Bond or Versa-loc adhesive. For steps we have switched to LIquidRoc500 epoxy, it's a twin tube type adhesive with a mixing tube that is attached at the tip. Now for special work like water parks we use a two part epoxy that is trowel out with 3/8&quot; notched trowel and the pavers are set into this mix.work time is short with this stuff but the only way to break the bond is with a air hammer(30lbr works best). We also use a epoxy mortar for river work that sets our dowels (7/8&quot; rebar epoxy coated).<p> To date we have not had a problem with epoxy bond being broken even on parks that kids like to tear apart, they have broken wall units and caps but not the epoxy bond. As to freeze thaw cycles the only way for for a bond to be broken is having water sit between the two surfaces and stay there. This condition exists on some of our water parks and we have not had a problem in 5 years of doing this type of work. As to a cost factor I figure that no call backs is better than using a cheaper adhesive even if there is some waste. Also there are some epoxy adhesives that will work under water if you have a need for this. Sometimes you have to work in rivers or lakes when conditions are bad so having other options helps keep things moving, now if we could only put plants in when the rivers are high thing would be great<p>----------<br>paul<br>
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