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  #11  
Old 03-13-2010, 05:28 PM
AWJ Services AWJ Services is online now
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Originally Posted by flairland View Post
I think it depends on your skill level. If it were up to me, a mini ex would be my first choice. If you have never ran one, its a tough job to learn on. Use whatever you feel most confident on, because if you're not dead on grade, you could be spending a lot of extra money on concrete... and that gets expensive quickly. Also, I'd never lay a pad down on virgin soil, I always put at least 6" of gravel down, plus compact w/ a compactor, any track machine does not have near enough psi.
Our soil here may be different than where your from. Gravel under a slab helps but it is not a must. We also do not have freezing issues here since our frost line rarely gets more than a few inches deep.
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  #12  
Old 03-13-2010, 05:55 PM
Gravel Rat Gravel Rat is offline
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Rebar is cheap insurance if your in doubt put a good grid of 1/2 rebar and get a high strength mix of concrete. The worst thing you want to happen is a crack and there is never any gaurantees of getting the ground perfectly compacted.

A 32x24 is a decent sized slab I would get professional placers to do the job.
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  #13  
Old 03-13-2010, 05:57 PM
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queen of spades queen of spades is offline
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GR: what should I expect to pay for enough rebar for a 32x24 pad?
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  #14  
Old 03-13-2010, 06:21 PM
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ksss ksss is offline
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GR: what should I expect to pay for enough rebar for a 32x24 pad?

You might also check with your concrete provider and price fiber mesh. I think its very effective, cheaper both in material and labor (its already mixed in the concrete so you do nothing). Might be something to look into.
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  #15  
Old 03-13-2010, 06:34 PM
Gravel Rat Gravel Rat is offline
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Prices are different everywhere its been awhile since I have had to buy any rebar.

If you want the slab really strong then a 1 foot grid with 1/2 inch bar you wouldn't have any problems. You could go with a 2 foot grid that would give you a decent strength. Buy the pre looped tie wires and a spinner to twist the bailing wire.

If you had good stable ground you could get away with that light wire mesh but I prefer rebar. If you don't want to use 1/2 inch use 3/8s rebar it is a little cheaper.

Do you want to chance the slab cracking then you have to redo a section or the whole thing.

Third option is this slab going to be power troweled to give a smooth finish if not you can use the wire mesh and have the redi mix company put the kitti hair into the mix which is the fiberglass strands. That will give you a strong slab without all the rebar BUT you can't power trowel fiberglass reienforced concrete you get the fuzzies.

Any which way you choose you can never have enough reinforcing in concrete.
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  #16  
Old 03-13-2010, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ksss View Post
You might also check with your concrete provider and price fiber mesh. I think its very effective, cheaper both in material and labor (its already mixed in the concrete so you do nothing). Might be something to look into.
I have mixed feelings about fiber. I actually refuse to use it. It only adds about 250 psi strength yet adds about 10 dollars a yard here. Each step up in strength here adds 500 psi and costs 5 dollars per upgrade.
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  #17  
Old 03-13-2010, 11:12 PM
Danny Boy Danny Boy is offline
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Up here 5/8 rebar 20 foot long is about 8 bucks a length and for a 16 x 16 inch grid at these prices a budget of 500 for the material would likely do, plus your labour to install it, I would not do a slab without it, and also put a layer of 6 mil poly under it too to keep the damp down and prolong the life of the concrete....
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  #18  
Old 03-13-2010, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by AWJ Services View Post
I have mixed feelings about fiber. I actually refuse to use it. It only adds about 250 psi strength yet adds about 10 dollars a yard here. Each step up in strength here adds 500 psi and costs 5 dollars per upgrade.

Its increases in psi are not as great but its ability resist cracking and peeling are much better. If you have ever had to remove fiber reinforced concrete the difference between fiber and non or even fiber and rebar is significant. You can power trowel fiber concrete. The hairs shed themselves.
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  #19  
Old 03-13-2010, 11:32 PM
Gravel Rat Gravel Rat is offline
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I'am not sure if I would use 5/8s in a 4 inch thick slab I assume this is a 4 inch slab ?

In a 8-10 inch foundation wall I would use 5/8s.

For myself we don't have red clay or pour concrete or work over clay. For a slab for a shop some guys are using 2 inch sytrofoam SM under the slab for a thermal break.

It all depends on the areas and you should do what ever is recommended for your area but universally you always want a good bed of rebar in your concrete.

The only reason why I wouldn't use 5/8s in a 4 inch slab it is too rigid. When your placing your slab no you don't pour concrete you want the rebar in the middle of the slab thickness. Using 2x4s you don't get a full "4" inch thick slab is its 3 1/2.

For your case if you want a thicker slab you can form it up with 1x6 that you rip on a table saw to 4 inches.

So you will have 9.5 yards of concrete approx not sure what concrete costs in your area but that would be about 1000 dollars for a a person like me. In B.C. we have trucks that will deliver that in one load I assume in the USA it is the same.
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  #20  
Old 03-13-2010, 11:37 PM
Gravel Rat Gravel Rat is offline
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Originally Posted by ksss View Post
Its increases in psi are not as great but its ability resist cracking and peeling are much better. If you have ever had to remove fiber reinforced concrete the difference between fiber and non or even fiber and rebar is significant. You can power trowel fiber concrete. The hairs shed themselves.
The concrete placers here don't recommend power troweling fiberglass entrained concrete. These guys do some large slabs ie supermarket size slabs.

You want to make somebodies day throw some brown sugar on their slab
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