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Old 04-09-2010, 07:23 PM
toppslandscaping toppslandscaping is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Smithtown
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Laying Base Need Help

Hi,

I would like some advice. I work on Long Island with freeze/thraw cycles. The customer has a concrete walkway that is 30 years old and in excellent shape. It's 80' L x 4' W. The customer would like to keep spare the expense of removing this walkway. Would I be better off using plastic edging and laying the pavers on 1" sand and using sandlock? My other option is to use Porrtland and mortaring the soldier course and then laying the pavers in sand and use sandlock?

Also, I'm gluing bullnose pavers on galvanized metal coping for a pool. The coping moves when you step on it. Can I tamp base under and around the coping or do I need to pour concrete around the coping? I also want to butt the coping pavers together with no mortar joints to minimize the chance of cracking. Any opinions?
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Old 04-09-2010, 07:55 PM
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zedosix zedosix is offline
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Location: Eastern Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toppslandscaping View Post
Hi,

I would like some advice. I work on Long Island with freeze/thraw cycles. The customer has a concrete walkway that is 30 years old and in excellent shape. It's 80' L x 4' W. The customer would like to keep spare the expense of removing this walkway. Would I be better off using plastic edging and laying the pavers on 1" sand and using sandlock? My other option is to use Porrtland and mortaring the soldier course and then laying the pavers in sand and use sandlock?

Also, I'm gluing bullnose pavers on galvanized metal coping for a pool. The coping moves when you step on it. Can I tamp base under and around the coping or do I need to pour concrete around the coping? I also want to butt the coping pavers together with no mortar joints to minimize the chance of cracking. Any opinions?
If your concrete pad is in top shape with no visible openings then it would be ok to lay pavers on top. I would use a thinset mortar to bond the outer edges and lay my brick on a thin layer of sand. You may want to lay a geo-textile to prevent any future loss of sand. In the past we have also pL'd a restraint edge and laid the brick inside, no issues here except covering the restraint edge, you may be able to hide it with sod or soil? I prefer the thinset method though.
Best bet for the coping issue is to have a concrete subdeck poured roughly 18" or so around the metal coping, sloping approx. 2% away from the pool let this cure for a couple of days and then use the same thinset to install your bullnose pavers. I like to cut all my bullnose first to size without any mortar joints then install them. Good luck.
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Old 04-09-2010, 08:09 PM
toppslandscaping toppslandscaping is offline
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When you PL'd the restraint edge I guess you just laid the inside pavers over your concrete pad with no sand? You would have a height issue if you used sand. I've never tried this. Did the sand between the pavers lock everything in place so there wasn't any rocking of the pavers when they were walked on. My pad is level but if I put pavers on them dry there is movement when you walk on them even if very slightly.

What method would be best for drainage. Plastic edging of concrete edging?

Also, if I use sandlock do I still need wooven fabric? The sandlock gets gumy when it gets wet but doesn't migrate out like regular sand.

Thanks
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Old 04-09-2010, 09:10 PM
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zedosix zedosix is offline
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Originally Posted by toppslandscaping View Post
When you PL'd the restraint edge I guess you just laid the inside pavers over your concrete pad with no sand? You would have a height issue if you used sand. I've never tried this. Did the sand between the pavers lock everything in place so there wasn't any rocking of the pavers when they were walked on. My pad is level but if I put pavers on them dry there is movement when you walk on them even if very slightly.

What method would be best for drainage. Plastic edging of concrete edging?

Also, if I use sandlock do I still need wooven fabric? The sandlock gets gumy when it gets wet but doesn't migrate out like regular sand.

Thanks
This was quite a while back when I used the edge restraint method, I glued the restraint and I believe we did not use any sand under the stone, once sand is spread and set on top, the pavers will likely not move any more. Any time you bond brick with mortar or pl you should leave some room for water to escape.
The fabric is not necessary if the brick is laid directly on the concrete.
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Old 04-09-2010, 09:25 PM
toppslandscaping toppslandscaping is offline
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Yeah. Plastic edging and sand would probably be better for drainage but with the sandlock the water should run off the top.
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Old 04-09-2010, 10:01 PM
Moneypit Moneypit is offline
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If your going to lay directly over the concrete, dont just dry sweep the sand into the joints. Have one guy with a broom pushing sand, while one guy is completely soaking the sand in front of the broom. This way, you wash the sand 100% into all joints and gaps eliminating any possible rocking of pavers. Also, If you are PLing the soldier coarse, run 2 beads down the long side of each paver, not a few beads down the length of the border. This will aid in drainage.
And in case you are not aware, poly sand is not to be used when pavers are installed directly over concrete.
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Old 04-09-2010, 10:10 PM
toppslandscaping toppslandscaping is offline
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All good advice. Thanks. I never heard that you can't use sandlock/polysand over concrete. What is the reasoning behind this? It's not cheap either so I can be much more competitive with regular sand. The poly can be tricky too if you're not carreful. I always make sure I'm there to surpervise this final phase.

Thanks
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