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  #1  
Old 05-25-2000, 11:00 PM
rusty86
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Hi,everybody --<p>Working on my first truck in a long time (last was a '67 Jeep, sold in '81) & ran into a problem -- the left rear wheel is rusted to the hub & won't come off. This is a 1986 C10, 2wd, bought weeks ago, basically solid, but needs some work. I'm all ready to do a rear brake job, but with the lug nuts removed,the wheel is stuck fast. So far, I've tried GM haet riser valve lubricant, a big hammer on the backside of the wheel, backed off the lug nuts a bit & drove around with it, more hammering, a propane torch around the center, , the hammer again, & now I'm waiting for the penetrant to work (maybe) -- it still won't come off!<p>I'm hoping this is a common problem, & everyone else knows what to do. I'm not too concerned about saving the wheel (bent before I started, someone's been here before)& I've got new drums; just need to get the wheel off!<p>I'd really welcome any suggestions; there must be some simple way I just don't know about.<p>TIA,<p>Richard<br>Syracuse, NY
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  #2  
Old 05-25-2000, 11:34 PM
justbarely justbarely is offline
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Join Date: May 2000
Location: North of Boston
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Can you back off the adjuster and pull the drum and wheel as one? Be careful slamming the the hub at the end of the axle, you could do some damage farther up stream. Two other products I've had great succes loosening rusted parts, PB Rust Buster and tried true Marvel Mystrey oil. Other than those, heat? Best of luck.<p>----------<br>joat21@aol.com<br>
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  #3  
Old 05-26-2000, 10:32 AM
rusty86
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Unfortunately, on this axle, the lugs pass through the drum first, then the wheel, so the whell/drum can't be pulled as a unit unless I want to get into the differential & pul the shaft out (something I'd rather avoid) I think you're right about doing internal damage -- I really don't want to bang on it much more, for fear of trashing seals, bearings, or thr retainer for the axle. May have to find someone with an acetelyne torch. Anyone know if there is a puller for this application that would grip the wheel & bear on the hub, thus avoiding stress on the differential?<p>Again, TIA!<p>Richard<p>Syracuse, ny
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  #4  
Old 05-26-2000, 04:47 PM
FrankenJimmy FrankenJimmy is offline
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Join Date: May 2000
Location: Surrey, B.C.
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If the rim is rusted so tightly to the wheel studs and or the axle flange you might be better of to pull the diff cover, remove the cross shaft and C-clip and pull the whole assembly out. If your even remotely careful you won't damage the outer seal. Once you have the assembly off the truck you can heat the rim without having to worry about wrecking anything else. Besides its a good oppotunity to change the fluid in your diff.
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  #5  
Old 05-27-2000, 11:17 PM
rebel2002 rebel2002 is offline
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Join Date: May 2000
Location: virginia
Posts: 47
Heat up the drum with a torch, then take a candle and melt the wax around the drum, hub, lugs.... heat it up again. The wax acts as a penetrant and it should come off!! This is a tip from my master mechanic
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  #6  
Old 05-28-2000, 11:16 PM
yortengel yortengel is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Clawson, Mi
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I live in michigan where this type of thing happens on a daily basis. USE A BIGGER HAMMER !!!!!! Works every time.<p>Spin the wheel while hitting the back of the rim. It will come off. These things are pretty tuff. it sould be ok.<br>I use a big ford tool on these things. (large sludge hammer) Good Luck.
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  #7  
Old 05-29-2000, 01:50 PM
rusty86
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The bigger hammer is in the barn, and it's still an option, but right now, I'm trying the pull-the-wheel-and-shaft together idea.<p>Odd thing is, I've got the diff. cover off & I've removed the pinion shaft lock screw (per Chilton's) but the shaft won't come out. In the picture in the manual, it looks like it should just slide out. it has about 1/16&quot; of axial play, and it's not bound up on the pinion gears -- it just doesn't want to slide. Anyone know if there's a snap ring or something that I'm missing? or does the shaft need to be pressed/driven out? Maybe there's some minor galling around the lock bolt hole that's hanging it up?<p>I'm perplexed.<p>Of course, that's not unusual.<p>TIA once more,<p>Richard<p>Syracuse,NY
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  #8  
Old 05-29-2000, 05:38 PM
77mesa4x4 77mesa4x4 is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Arizona
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There should be a &quot;C&quot; clip at the end of the shaft.
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  #9  
Old 05-29-2000, 08:48 PM
Alan Alan is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: NW Vermont (Milton)
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Are you sure you got ALL of the lock bolt? I have seen them break off and leave part of the last thread and all of the lock pin in the hole. The bolt is threated right under the head and then is smaller diameter for the locking area.
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  #10  
Old 05-29-2000, 11:19 PM
rusty86
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Tried the hammer again, pounded harder, and the wheel came off! Heat, penetrating oil, and more pounding got the drum off. I'm still curious about the pinion shaft, though -- I've been tinking it would be a good idea to replace the seals, while I'm doing the brakes, or at 128,000 miles thry'll leak oil on my brand new shoes weeks or months down the road. I checked the lock screw, and it has a 5/16 head, a threaded section, and a non-threaded section abour 3/16 long, & looks flat & unbroken on the end. If there were a piece of the screw lodged in the shaft, what would be the next step? Any ideas?<p>Richard
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