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  #101  
Old 06-08-2010, 12:37 PM
icobob icobob is offline
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Ok so I did the grinding but unless I hold it all the way open with my hand it wont stay any wider. Will it open wider when it is actually running or what. I still need to take more off for it to be fully opened but decided to stop for now since it already is not opening by itself
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  #102  
Old 06-08-2010, 01:06 PM
icobob icobob is offline
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Yeeeeeee Haaaaaa!!!! Answered my own question. Damn that sucker has some power now. Took it out and mowed ditch across road a good 8in and it did great. Have to get used to that wheelieing lol. I did it with it still on the engine. Gonna check cause I may have took a little to much off. Thanks guys
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  #103  
Old 06-08-2010, 01:34 PM
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fatboynormmie fatboynormmie is offline
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hey icobob with your engine off if you put the throttle lever to full throttle does the shaft hit the stop but when the engines running at full throttle the shaft pulls back away from the stop some?while mine is running and the shaft is pulled away from the stop if i touch the shaft and try to manually make it go to stop the governor linkage engages and the motor races up .I think thats the way its suppose to work it really doesn't need all the air it can get while not under load but once motor is under load the governor kicks in and sends the shaft to the stop for full power.even while mine is running with no load applied and the butterflies pulled off the stop i still reach 3650 rpm which is good.does this sound like i'm on the right track with my thinking ? anyone else want to chime in?
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  #104  
Old 06-08-2010, 02:11 PM
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clif clif is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fatboynormmie View Post
hey icobob with your engine off if you put the throttle lever to full throttle does the shaft hit the stop but when the engines running at full throttle the shaft pulls back away from the stop some?while mine is running and the shaft is pulled away from the stop if i touch the shaft and try to manually make it go to stop the governor linkage engages and the motor races up .I think thats the way its suppose to work it really doesn't need all the air it can get while not under load but once motor is under load the governor kicks in and sends the shaft to the stop for full power.even while mine is running with no load applied and the butterflies pulled off the stop i still reach 3650 rpm which is good.does this sound like i'm on the right track with my thinking ? anyone else want to chime in?
3650 rpm is at the high end of the recommended rpm range for these... that sounds good to me, never tried it with butterflies removed though.
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  #105  
Old 06-08-2010, 02:14 PM
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clif clif is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icobob View Post
Yeeeeeee Haaaaaa!!!! Answered my own question. Damn that sucker has some power now. Took it out and mowed ditch across road a good 8in and it did great. Have to get used to that wheelieing lol. I did it with it still on the engine. Gonna check cause I may have took a little to much off. Thanks guys
Good job!! Glad it worked without a hitch. Now you can leave it as it is, or take it down again to make sure you are able open the butterfly valves all the way, then you will know you are at your engine's full potential. Makes you wonder why those suckers limit you engine like that, guess it's to do with their profits. Change a $30 part, sell the same engine for $500 more dollar$$$$
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  #106  
Old 06-08-2010, 02:22 PM
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fatboynormmie fatboynormmie is offline
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the butterflies weren't literally removed from the shaft .
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  #107  
Old 06-08-2010, 02:23 PM
icobob icobob is offline
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Fatboy I am not a good one to answer your question as I dont want to mislead you as I dont fully understand the question. Clif, ya kind of pisses you off that to get the bigger engine you pay that much. Oh well good thing there are guys like you who went through the parts list. Thanks
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  #108  
Old 06-08-2010, 02:31 PM
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fatboynormmie fatboynormmie is offline
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HEY WHO YOU CALLIN FATBOY hehe i was just throwing the question out there figuring someone with a little more experience and know how might chime in and teach us all something.thats what makes lawnsite so valuable to me i learn something every time i jump on here
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  #109  
Old 06-08-2010, 02:48 PM
icobob icobob is offline
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HeHe ya felt a little odd calling someone fatboy but couldnt remember the rest. So to get this correct Clif all I need for the oil cooler is the cooler,o ring,and joint.
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  #110  
Old 06-08-2010, 03:59 PM
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clif clif is offline
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Originally Posted by icobob View Post
HeHe ya felt a little odd calling someone fatboy but couldnt remember the rest. So to get this correct Clif all I need for the oil cooler is the cooler,o ring,and joint.
That's right, no need for the plastic valve assy, I thought that it might have been some sort of extension to add to my oil drain tube, but it's not. In fact, mine is better, it's steel not plastic. Yet another way to save them money!! lol

Yea, those parts are all that's needed to add on the oil cooler, and if you are like me, I went ahead and did an oil change since I had to take off the oil filter to add on the oil cooler. I used a towel and a set of pliers to remove the original joint.... kinda messed up the threads a bit, but not to bad. Doesn't matter, I'm never taking off that oil cooler. That thing probably will make the engine run cooler, therefore last longer I would expect.
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