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  #61  
Old 06-04-2010, 11:20 PM
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clif clif is offline
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I tried synchronizing the governor in the manner listed earlier, but so far no luck, now I have a slower engine speed, and no engine speed control with the throttle lever. I held the throttle shaft on the carb to full open while turning the governor counterclockwise until it stopped (with the arm nut loosened) and then re-tightened the arm on the governor to "set" the full throttle position. But for some reason this did not work.
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  #62  
Old 06-05-2010, 12:25 PM
underPSI underPSI is offline
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The only thing I can recommend is to disassemble and start over. I still think something is not put back together correctly which is why I questioned the "re-synchronizing" of the governor. I just find it hard to believe that the minute difference between the two shafts would cause this big of a hassle. I might mess with mine this afternoon if I have time. If I do so I'll keep you informed of my project.
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  #63  
Old 06-05-2010, 07:22 PM
underPSI underPSI is offline
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Okay, I just got finished swapping throttle shafts and, wow, what a difference. Now I understand why they limit the horsepower on the smaller (lighter) mowers. Before, I had to reverse slowly then push forward hard to get the front end to come up more than an inch. Now from just a stand-still I can pull the front end up almost a foot. Huge difference 4 horsepower makes! I highly recommend the swap for those with this style engine!
Clif, I don't know what to tell you other than a disassemble is in order. All I did is remove the carb from the engine, remove throttle plates, slide throttle shaft out, install throttle plates on new shaft, and reinstall carb. I didn't adjust anything. It idles and runs (with the exception of the added power) like it did before the swap.
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  #64  
Old 06-05-2010, 09:22 PM
underPSI underPSI is offline
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Don't ask why the picture quality sucks. I cleaned them up as best I could with Photoshop (yes, they were real bad before P/S.).


This picture is before the throttle shaft swap. I am holding the shaft at wide open throttle.




Here is after the throttle shaft swap. Again, and obviously this is being held at WOT.
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  #65  
Old 06-05-2010, 10:38 PM
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clif clif is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by underPSI View Post
Don't ask why the picture quality sucks. I cleaned them up as best I could with Photoshop (yes, they were real bad before P/S.).


This picture is before the throttle shaft swap. I am holding the shaft at wide open throttle.




Here is after the throttle shaft swap. Again, and obviously this is being held at WOT.
Yea, mine was even less open than yours!! Sucker was barely open with the 19hp shaft.
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  #66  
Old 06-05-2010, 10:41 PM
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clif clif is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by underPSI View Post
Okay, I just got finished swapping throttle shafts and, wow, what a difference. Now I understand why they limit the horsepower on the smaller (lighter) mowers. Before, I had to reverse slowly then push forward hard to get the front end to come up more than an inch. Now from just a stand-still I can pull the front end up almost a foot. Huge difference 4 horsepower makes! I highly recommend the swap for those with this style engine!
Clif, I don't know what to tell you other than a disassemble is in order. All I did is remove the carb from the engine, remove throttle plates, slide throttle shaft out, install throttle plates on new shaft, and reinstall carb. I didn't adjust anything. It idles and runs (with the exception of the added power) like it did before the swap.
Yea, this is all I did as well. I can't figure out what could have happened to mess up the idle or the governor. I disassembled everything today, and put the old throttle shaft back in, still stuck at wide open. Hopefully someone has had this problem or knows another solution, my last resort is to bring to the shop and pay $75/hr labor for them to reset things..... I'm sure it's probably nothing major, I just don't know what though. I can't wait to use it when it is fixed, that sucker was really strong compared to that 19hp setting. Felt like I could cut a tree down with it! lol
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  #67  
Old 06-05-2010, 10:55 PM
underPSI underPSI is offline
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^Man, I wish I could help but I've gone over and over in my head what could be causing your problem. The only reason I did the swap today was to see if I ran into a potential problem that might cause your situation. I'm at a total loss. It's such a cut and dry mod that I just can't figure out what could be wrong. You're probably right, though, it's probably something really easy that's being overlooked.
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  #68  
Old 06-06-2010, 10:31 AM
crook038 crook038 is offline
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Clif, did you adjust the slow idle, fast idle and governor per the service manual? When you tighten the nut on the governor arm you have to make sure it is good and tight so the governor shaft doesn't slip in the arm. If you adjusted everything per the service manual in the correct order and you are still seeing full throttle, I am at a loss.
Sean
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  #69  
Old 06-06-2010, 12:20 PM
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clif clif is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crook038 View Post
Clif, did you adjust the slow idle, fast idle and governor per the service manual? When you tighten the nut on the governor arm you have to make sure it is good and tight so the governor shaft doesn't slip in the arm. If you adjusted everything per the service manual in the correct order and you are still seeing full throttle, I am at a loss.
Sean
I adjusted it like the manual says, tightened the nut very tight on the governor arm each time. I'll try one more time tonight, after that I don't know what to do other than bring it to a shop.
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  #70  
Old 06-06-2010, 12:35 PM
crook038 crook038 is offline
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Just make sure that you turn the governor shaft counter clockwise and the arm counter clockwise. When I adjusted my governor once I turned the shaft opposite the arm and when I started the engine it ran up fast and hard! I shut it down quickly and realized my mistake before anything was damaged. Can you turn the throttle shaft freely when the engine is not running?
Sean
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