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  #11  
Old 06-12-2010, 08:31 PM
1966vette 1966vette is offline
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Looks like the word is out on these tecumseh carbs:

http://www.diychatroom.com/f29/mtd-s...t-start-52295/

MTD Snow Blower w/Tecumseh Engine Won't Start

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the carb on that particular engine has a sealed passage with a check ball in it,after you pull the carb give it a shake if you hear the ball rattle give the rebuild a try if not save yourself some grief and spring for a new carb


This Seems like good advice!
If I had known this simple test, I would have cut my losses, saved my labor & the cost of a rebuild kit & opted for a new carb. Learning is never cheap! This will not happen it me again!

Thanks again for all your help!
Andy
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  #12  
Old 06-12-2010, 08:45 PM
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Restrorob Restrorob is offline
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Andy, A new carb will most likely solve the hard start issue. On the new carb set the low at 1 turn and high at 2, This is a good starting point then adjust from there. But, Have the air filter in place while adjusting.

It's not a good idea using starting fluid for a prolonged time, It can wash the oil from the cylinder/rings and valves causing premature wear.
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  #13  
Old 06-12-2010, 09:03 PM
Briggs Man Briggs Man is offline
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A new carb will help but what about your piston or piston rings? ever consider putting a brand new motor on it ?perhaps a Honda one cannot say enough good things about a Honda engine
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  #14  
Old 06-12-2010, 09:10 PM
1966vette 1966vette is offline
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Briggs Man,

This is a carburetor issue. The ignition system and compression of the motor is excellent. I opt for a new chipper before I spring for anew motor.

Honda is an excellent choice for a replacement motor & made in the USA.
Only Honda & kawasaki engine are US made.
The rest are either out of business or made in Mexico or off shores - per the John Deere Dealer
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  #15  
Old 06-13-2010, 03:03 PM
1966vette 1966vette is offline
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Chipper - Nightmare - Help 9/16 NF Bolt torque to 60Ftlb & it broke!

Iím cleaned the wood debris out of the chipper & now it turns over much easier because it is not longer out of balance.
I do not have the factory service manual for the MDT chipper so I looked up the proper torque on web at the enclosed link.

http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/bolts/SAE_bolts.html
Fine Thread
Size Grade 2 Iron Grade 5 Iron Grade 8 Iron Aluminum

7/16-20 (NF) 36 50 70 40
1/2-20 (NF) 55 75 110 60
9/16-18 (NF) 80 110 155 85
5/8-18 (NF) 110 155 215 120

The 9/16 NF bolt had 6 marks on it & LE in the middle.
I applied anti- seize to the threads & started to torque the bolt to 110 ft lb & it broke at 60 ft lb.

Whatís the deal here?
Could the bolt be defective or an inaccurate 30 years old Craftsman torque wrench?

Very disappointing!
Who is the bozo on this one?
Me, the bolt or the wrench?
However, the chipper wheel came off w/o a fight & I have a new 9/16 NF bolts with 5 marks which I plan to use and torque to XX ft lb.

What should I torque this bolt to?

Any advice will be much appreciated!
Andy
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  #16  
Old 06-13-2010, 03:53 PM
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Restrorob Restrorob is offline
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Andy, There's no bozo here just a mis-understanding.


The fact that you may use a 9/16" wrench/socket to tighten a screw doesn't mean that screw size is 9/16". In most cases a 9/16" wrench size head is a 3/8" size thread shank, Knowing the unit your working on this is the case. So, Use the 30 ft.lb. spec listed for the 3/8" -24 NF screw and you should be good to go.
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  #17  
Old 06-13-2010, 04:14 PM
1966vette 1966vette is offline
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Hello Restrorob!
Thanks for a quick reply & and an excellent assignable cause!

I also removed the rebuild Tecumseh carb from the engine, disassembled the float & did not hear a rattle when shaken.

Too bad now the carb will have to be replaced.

However, I plan to go down w/ a fight & add some fuel injector cleaner to the gas & run the chipper for an hour.

If it still does not run correctly I will replace the carb.

Thanks Again!
Andy
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  #18  
Old 06-13-2010, 04:57 PM
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Restrorob Restrorob is offline
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No problem Andy !

Many many people including myself have tried to revive these old carbs without success, Soaking for a month in a 5 gallon bucket of old school cleaner for a month (before EPA started in with water based cleaners) did nothing for it.

Your best bet is to put the money for the injector cleaner toward a new carb and be done with it.
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You never learn anything until you admit you don't know it all...

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  #19  
Old 06-13-2010, 05:00 PM
44DCNF 44DCNF is offline
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This method helps with starting those style chippers. Set your choke and throttle accordingly. You first pull it over slowly to draw the engine up to the start of it's compression stroke. Some flail blades will flip over and you'll feel the resistance in the cord. Let the cord rewind, pull again to engage the dogs and give it a hard full pull to start it.

Good luck. Give it more than one day to decide though, if you try the fuel cleaner soak. Run it each day for a few, working it through the rpm range and partially applying the choke (as much as it will take and still run well) at different speed settings.

edit....my carb cleaning advice above isn't speaking to that specific style carb. It's worked for me on others though. Rob is surely right - I trust his experience.

Last edited by 44DCNF; 06-13-2010 at 05:05 PM.
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  #20  
Old 06-13-2010, 05:27 PM
Ruben Rocha Ruben Rocha is offline
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Rob is usually spot on. So....
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