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  #21  
Old 06-13-2010, 08:12 PM
1966vette 1966vette is offline
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Seeking an Elegant way to change the oil on this chipper?

Does anyone have an elegant way to change the oil on this chipper?
Check out picture #4.

The oil drain plugs are located on both side of the engine but when you pull the plug oil is going to flow on the base and then to the floor / bench / make shift container.

Capturing it after it flows on the base is a not preferred & removing the engine is another nightmare.

I hate the thought of oil soaked newspaper & some make shift oil containment system that is not going to work w/o making a huge mess!

Maybe this time I will have to suffer.

I'm things about a threaded pipe to make the job easier next time.
Nightmare!
Thanks Again!
Andy
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  #22  
Old 06-13-2010, 09:20 PM
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Restrorob Restrorob is offline
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I have a pneumatic oil suction tank for situations such as this, But in your case make a mess the first time and install a pipe....


BTW Andy, Do you own a 66 Vette ?
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some times the man in my mirror isn't so smart...
"Why go out preserved when you can go out beat up, worn out, sliding in sideways screaming, Holy Sh!t What A Ride" !!!
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  #23  
Old 06-13-2010, 09:52 PM
1966vette 1966vette is offline
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66 Vette

Hello Restrorob!

Enclosed pic of 1966 Vette 427 390HP orginial motor, trans & rear end. I drove it from Kokomo,IN to West Point NY in Nov 1998 w/o a major mechanical problem.

The car is not for sale.

Thanks for all your help!
Andy
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  #24  
Old 06-13-2010, 10:31 PM
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Restrorob Restrorob is offline
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WOW !

Thanks for posting the pic Andy, Very very sharp lookin car for sure !!!

I've got a toy link in my sig but it's nothing like yours.
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some times the man in my mirror isn't so smart...
"Why go out preserved when you can go out beat up, worn out, sliding in sideways screaming, Holy Sh!t What A Ride" !!!

Last edited by Restrorob; 06-13-2010 at 10:39 PM.
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  #25  
Old 06-18-2010, 09:12 PM
1966vette 1966vette is offline
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New Tecumseh Carb - fighting like a Mike Vick Pit Bull

My new Tecumseh carb arrived w/ a plastic 90 degree elbow "incorrect" fuel inlet!

Per the instructions, I drilled, tapped & use a machine screw & bolt as a puller to remove it.

I used a shop vise to install the straight metal one.

Now I got metal filing in a new carb NOT to too cool!

I like to horse whip bozo that OK/ed the above procedure.

This carb has fought me like a Mike Vick “Big News” Pit Bull!
Thus, I had to remove the float to clean the filing out of the carb.

While the float was out I checked for the “infamous check ball rattle” which was non-existent.
Thus, I’m not sure the “infamous check ball rattle” can be used as the determining factor if a Tecumseh carb can be rebuilt.

I installed the new carb & it still required starting fluid to start.

I adjusted the carb high speed jets until the engine ran smooth.

I adjusted the low speed jet but it did not appear to make a large difference in idle performance.

I then set the low spend jet 1 ˝ turns out & it started w/o the starting fluid.
Here are my questions:

1. What is the proper starting procedure for this engine?
Max choke, full speed, pull like hell & when it starts open up the choke?

2. Is there an easy way to adjust the low speed jet to ensure easier starting?

Thanks Again!
Andy
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  #26  
Old 06-18-2010, 09:56 PM
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Restrorob Restrorob is offline
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Start at half throttle position with full choke, Once it fires up open the choke fully.

This engine being on a chipper with the heavy wheel will not run as well/low at idle as a lawn mower with only a blade.

With the engine running at the idle speed and giving it full throttle all at once.... If it stumbles or doesn't pick up speed smoothly the low speed is set too lean (screwed in too far). It it labors and blows black smoke out the muffler it's running too rich (screwed out too far).

Adjust the low speed to obtain the quickest smoothest transition from idle speed to full throttle.

One other thing just came to mind, This being a chipper it takes quite a beating at the blades. You may want to take a look at the flywheel key, A partly sheered key could cause hard starting (firing slightly off) but still have enough power to run.
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Originally Posted by MannsLawnService View Post
some times the man in my mirror isn't so smart...
"Why go out preserved when you can go out beat up, worn out, sliding in sideways screaming, Holy Sh!t What A Ride" !!!
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  #27  
Old 06-20-2010, 07:56 AM
1966vette 1966vette is offline
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Chipper "from hell" Crashes! Problem! Big Problems!

Chipper bolt broke during 1st hour of use!
This was a 5 mark bolt and torque to 35 in lb.
Please view the attached pictures & answer the following questions:
1. I plan on purchasing a new blade –
Note: this blade only has a single hole.
The newer ones all have 2 additional holes near the end for increased support.
Can a new style blade be sued?

2. Can the chipper plate be repaired - straightened & welded?
I will remind the welder that balance is critical.

3. What is the cause of the “5 mark hardened” bolt breaking?

4. What I have learned so far about this chipper:
1. The carb is a nightmare to repair & the new ones do not run out of the box
2. The chipper requires a lot of expensive & labor intensive maintenance
3. Chipping is a lot of work

Thanks for helping!
Andy
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  #28  
Old 06-20-2010, 08:16 AM
Briggs Man Briggs Man is offline
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Hi

Wow! you would think that they would use a steel bolt in such a location and not no "white metal" alloy ,well i guess you will have to sharpen up the blade and get a new bolt.Good luck this seems to be a nice project you have taken on ,what size branches can fit it this chipper ? do you use the chippings you create?
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  #29  
Old 06-20-2010, 08:47 AM
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Restrorob Restrorob is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1966vette View Post
1. I plan on purchasing a new blade –
Note: this blade only has a single hole.
The newer ones all have 2 additional holes near the end for increased support.
Can a new style blade be sued?

I need the unit model number to confirm.

2. Can the chipper plate be repaired - straightened & welded?
I will remind the welder that balance is critical.

The way the center hole appears wallowed out NO, It wouldn't be safe even if it wasn't.

3. What is the cause of the “5 mark hardened” bolt breaking?

Chit happens, Maybe the bolt was a little too long and bottomed out in the hole before properly tightening the wheel/blade ?

4. What I have learned so far about this chipper:
1. The carb is a nightmare to repair & the new ones do not run out of the box

Few adjustable carbs are plug-n-play, With non-adjustable carbs you just have to hope the rest of the engine is in good enough mechanical shape to run properly.

2. The chipper requires a lot of expensive & labor intensive maintenance

There's alot being slung/tossed and framed around inside one of these things and the cheaper the unit the more expense to keep it together.

3. Chipping is a lot of work
Operating a chipper will never make my list of things to do !
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by piston slapper View Post
You never learn anything until you admit you don't know it all...
Quote:
Originally Posted by MannsLawnService View Post
some times the man in my mirror isn't so smart...
"Why go out preserved when you can go out beat up, worn out, sliding in sideways screaming, Holy Sh!t What A Ride" !!!
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  #30  
Old 06-20-2010, 11:10 AM
1966vette 1966vette is offline
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Posts: 194
1. I plan on purchasing a new blade –
Note: this blade only has a single hole.
The newer ones all have 2 additional holes near the end for increased support.
Can a new style blade be sued?

I need the unit model number to confirm.

This unit has a glued on stick & the model # & serial # a not legible – most likely do to cleaning

2. Can the chipper plate be repaired - straightened & welded?
I will remind the welder that balance is critical.

The way the center hole appears wallowed out NO, It wouldn't be safe even if it wasn't.

I understands your concern & it is well taken:
– The engine center PTO shaft that holds the blade bolt is still 100% functional – no damage to the threads.
_ Minor damage, nicked up a bit, to the part of the plate that sticks through the hole in the blade& is fastened to the engine PTO shaft.
_ Most of the damage is to the soft metal plate tabs being bent down.
They did not hold the blade. Thus, I assume they are designed to keep the debris circulating.


3. What is the cause of the “5 mark hardened” bolt breaking?

Chit happens, Maybe the bolt was a little too long and bottomed out in the hole before properly tightening the wheel/blade ?

I measured the original & replacement bolt length they were the same size.
I Torqued the replacement bolt to 35 ft lb not 30 ft lb. as you recommended.
I did not want the blade to come loose & now it is broken.
Do you think this is the assignable cause for the broken bolt?
Is a harder 7 mark bolt required?

4. What I have learned so far about this chipper:
1. The carb is a nightmare to repair & the new ones do not run out of the box

Few adjustable carbs are plug-n-play, With non-adjustable carbs you just have to hope the rest of the engine is in good enough mechanical shape to run properly.

$80 for this carb, including shipping, is a lot being - I had to invest ˝ machining the inlet.
Is it recommended to adjust the carb w/o the plate on- in an attempt to make it easier to start & tune?
This engine & current carb adjustment – start when cold but is very difficult to start ones it gets warm!


2. The chipper requires a lot of expensive & labor intensive maintenance

There's a lot being slung/tossed and framed around inside one of these things and the cheaper the unit the more expense to keep it together.

3. Chipping is a lot of work
Operating a chipper will never make my list of things to do !

The wife put the boots on the purchase of a new chipper.

I learned a lot about cheap MTD chippers but have not saved a dime.
I’m up to $270 on this animal / toilet / piece of junk?
$120 chipper, $80 carb & $70 bag. During the machine demo, the previous owner allowed the original bag to be sucked into the hopper.
Now I have the additional cost & labor to repair the crash.

The center hole of the blade is enlarged & appears bent so a new one is mandatory.


Restrorob – I respect your opinion, do you think I can bend up the damaged tabs of the plate & weld where required to add additional strength. What is the cost of a replacement plate?

Thanks Again!
You have been extremely helpful!
Andy
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