Lesco 48" Belt Driven Walk-Behind Mower Problems

[bradleysch]

I will try the belts but a license mechanic told me it might be the gear box, but another one said that when the gear box goes out the mower won't move at all. Has anyone heard that? What would you think I should believe?

Thanks Everyone.

[lawnboy852]

Try the belts first. The tranny is spinning so doesnt seem to be the problem. If new belts and proper tensioning doesnt fix it, then look at the transmission. Always cheaper solution first though, belts are maybe 120 total, trans you're looking at at least 400.

[moljinor]

Usually when a trans goes bad, it will start clicking, and the mower will hesitate with the clicking. I really think the trans belt is loose on your mower. That's what happens about 75% of the time. The idler pulley for the trans belt also goes bad. The newer version from JD is metal vs the plastic one Lesco supplied.

To check the belt, look under the unit, between the wheels, and you will see a big pulley and the belt around it. Grab the long side (opposite side where the idler pulley is) and pull on it. IF it gives more than a inch, in either tug direction, then the idler needs to be tightened.

[STIHL GUY]

the belt under the tranny could cause that. i had the same problem and replaced that belt and my problem was fixed

[moljinor]

What is really funny, to fix the trans, (tear it down and rebuild) it is about $25.00 bucks worth of parts (if the tranny is clicking). I usually had one fixed in about a hour. There are 4 shifter keys in the tranny, they wear out.

[lawns Etc]

Tighten the belts its no big deal as already said the tranny belt is under the machine at bottom ot gearbox. I put lots of hrs on the belt drives and I replace all belts yearly may cost 100 at most and save the old ones for backup. The tranny is probally fine but 500 is crazy for one they go for under 250 complete and take less than an hour to change out. I have a spare rebuilt one that cost about 30 to rebuild just in case one goes out.
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[Gene's Clean cut]

I have the same mower with same problem and tried all the same suggestions already made. I found out that the grease fitting near the drive belt had let a little bit of grease get on the belt I did not see. After cleaning the mower with purple power and with no adjustment made, it just about pulled my arms off it had so much power.

[herler]

First things first, tighten the transmission drive belt and while you're doing that get the part number and get another one on order because they like to wear out and when it does you will want to have a spare on hand, mostly because dealers don't always have what we need when we need it.

And if that doesn't fix it one or both of your outer belts might need replacing, but do the trans belt first because the outer ones are not cheap.
You may, however, want to see about ordering up one of the outer belts as well, once again so that you have it when you need it, to my understanding they are interchangeable so you only need one to fit either side.

On a closing note I believe the transmission drive belt runs around $25 while the outer ones are closer to $80, each.
And you always want one each transmission drive belt and one outer belt in stock (as in, in your house or in your truck)
I like keeping those belts in the truck because I hate pushing those dang things and this way I don't even have to run home.

[macgyver_GA]

As others have said. It's probably the engine to transmission belt. I had the same problem with my Snapper Pro belt drive last year. I knew it couldn't have been the drive belts because they were replaced the year prior about mid-way through the season.

I pulled the transmission belt off and took it to Napa and they were able to find an exact match for significantly less than the mower shop down the road (which had to special order it). The mower shop actually told me to check Napa since I needed one ASAP.

Also, I've noticed mine will slip from time to time if it gets wet.