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  #1  
Old 05-19-2010, 09:28 AM
dweezil22 dweezil22 is offline
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Location: Baltimore, MD
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Kawasaki fh680v spinning air filter

I'm a homeowner with a Great Dane Chariot Jr. with a 23HP fh680v Kawasaki engine that I got used (in fact, folks on this forum were very helpful when I was deciding to buy it). I just noticed an odd problem with the engine and was wondering if anyone here could advise me on how serious it is.

The engine has a cooling area on the top with two screens, the inner screen rotates.

It looks like the previous owner must have dropped something on this, b/c the inner screen had a big hole in it and was becoming detached from the part of the engine where it rotated (we noticed this as it started making an awful rattle yesterday). Pretty much everything that attaches the rotating screen to the engine was damaged, so it wasn't something I could re-attach without new parts. As a quick fix I unhooked the inner screen and basically wired it to the outer screen, so it still will block debris, but it won't spin anymore.

My question is this: How big of a deal is it that my screen no longer spins? Is this something that can wait until Fall for me to fix or is it something I really need to take care of now? (The mower sees only residential use, mowing about 3 acres each week).

If it does need fixing soon, I think I've found some places where I can order all the parts I need and it seems pretty straightforward, however I'm slightly stumped by one thing. I can't figured out how the part highlighted below attaches to the engine. Perhaps it makes more sense once you remove it, but I didn't want to get that far and discover I had no clue. Anybody have an idea?



Thanks!

-Dave
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  #2  
Old 05-19-2010, 06:26 PM
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Restrorob Restrorob is offline
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The grass screen (inner piece) is held in place with three screws, You need to order them as well. The rotating screen helps deflect grass clippings from entering the flywheel area where it can be deposited on the cylinder cooling fins, If the fins get too covered the engine will run hot and eventually burn up. I wouldn't put the repair off, Go ahead and git-r-done !

Also, Clean the cylinder fins while your in there.....

That one part and letter D is held in place with the flywheel nut, You shouldn't have to fool with that just to put a screen on.
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Old 06-14-2010, 09:28 AM
dweezil22 dweezil22 is offline
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Hey, thanks for the advice! I took it and ordered all the replacement parts and finally got them the other day. I'm afraid I may have to mess with the flywheel nut as that plate below part D is stripped, so part D won't attach anymore (God only knows what happened to this to mess these things up so weirdly).

After much googling, I tracked down the engine manual and it seems like all I need to do is take off the flywheel nut, change the plate, then put it back on. To do this I'll need a torque wrench (to make sure I tighten to the 40 foot lbs required) and something to hold the flywheel (the manual says "A suitable tool" they seem to show a nylon strap wrench in the picture). This leads me a few more questions:

1) Is there anything I'm missing here that could cause me to damage something by accident?
2) I've read in some of these forums that "the leather belt method" can work instead of an actual strap wrench. I've had a real hard time even finding strap wrenches that will fit the flywheel on this engine (and the ones that seem like good candidates at at least $70). Should I give it a go with an ad-hoc tool, or should I make sure to find a strap wrench rated for an 8 or 9" diameter?

Thanks for all our help!
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  #4  
Old 06-14-2010, 11:18 AM
Ruben Rocha Ruben Rocha is offline
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Save yourself some grief and see if you can find a impact wrench to take the flywheel bolt off.
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  #5  
Old 06-14-2010, 01:25 PM
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Restrorob Restrorob is offline
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Get about 8" of #5 recoil rope, Remove the spark plugs then rotate either piston around to TDC compression stroke. Rotate the piston PAST TDC 1/8 turn then feed 4 to 5 inches of rope into the cylinder, Now when you go to loosen the nut/bolt the piston will hit the rope pinning the crank from spinning.

When you get ready to tighten, Stop the piston about 1/8 turn BEFORE TDC compression stroke and insert the rope.

This procedure is outlined in the older Briggs service manuals and works on all engines. Use only clean recoil rope, Other type ropes could get cut and cause head removal to retrieve the rope.
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some times the man in my mirror isn't so smart...
"Why go out preserved when you can go out beat up, worn out, sliding in sideways screaming, Holy Sh!t What A Ride" !!!
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  #6  
Old 06-19-2010, 08:58 PM
dweezil22 dweezil22 is offline
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Thanks for all the advice!

I finally got this all fixed today. I didn't have the guts to try Restrorob's approach (I also didn't have any recoil rope on hand, which sealed the deal). I ended up finding a decent $15 strap wrench that could handle up to 12" diameter from Sears (they really need to work on their search engine optimization, it was way too hard to find). If anyone else is looking for it, here it is. It's not the greatest strap wrench in the world, but I got 40 ft/lbs of torque out if it without a problem.

I had previously missed the step in the engine manual where it told you to remove the ignition coils before doing this. I didn't want to mess with fixing the air gaps on the coils when I replaced them, so I skipped that step. I was able to thread the rubber strap wrench around the flywheel despite them being in the way.

Other than a few other miscues (Kawasaki changed how their screen bolts on, making me think I was missing bolts) it all worked out nicely. Now my engine looks like it's brand new, since the screen above the fly-wheel is really the only part you see when you glance at it. All told it was $85 in parts and $30 in tools, and I'm pretty sure just the tow to and from the shop would have been $120 bucks.

Thanks again for the help everyone!

-Dave
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