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  #21  
Old 07-15-2010, 07:27 AM
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FIMCO-MEISTER FIMCO-MEISTER is offline
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So I replace the glue cans with a torch. I'm betting those torch attachments with the auto start are the way to go. Can't imagine the time involved using a striker on every fitting. I have a rubber hammer that I used in some furniture repairs I may try as well.

That green pipe came out of Hastings, NE. Felt and seemed every bit as durable as the black.

Pretty much every system here is or was pulled. The soil is clay loam but compared to the gumbo in TX it digs like sandy loam.
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  #22  
Old 07-15-2010, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIMCO-MEISTER View Post

That green pipe came out of Hastings, NE. Felt and seemed every bit as durable as the black.
I was able to go to Hastings about 15 years ago and tour the Eagle pipe plant. Pretty sweet operation.
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  #23  
Old 07-15-2010, 09:38 AM
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a poly person's essential tool......


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  #24  
Old 07-15-2010, 09:54 AM
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Don't think I've ever used one with a striker. I think we have 5 of the trigger start units. I have one that is probably 12-15 years old, still hanging in there. Occasionally it won't ignite, so I carry a Bic in my soldering tool box.
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  #25  
Old 07-15-2010, 10:19 AM
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Waterlogged Waterlogged is offline
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Fimco are you going to the dark side, follow the light man. It's going to be interesting to see if your perspective changes on poly and manifolds. Enjoy the 80s the index is 107 here.
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  #26  
Old 07-15-2010, 10:25 AM
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Before Bernzomatic bought out the original Surefire company, the torch had a lifetime warranty, until the Surefire company realized what was happening to their products in the hands of the poly people.
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  #27  
Old 07-15-2010, 11:01 AM
WalkGood WalkGood is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIMCO-MEISTER View Post
So I replace the glue cans with a torch. I'm betting those torch attachments with the auto start are the way to go. Can't imagine the time involved using a striker on every fitting. I have a rubber hammer that I used in some furniture repairs I may try as well.
.
Yup, the torch head that Boots showed. I use MAPP gas, same fuel I use for sweating Cu. Two seconds of heat in the end of the poly, fitting pops in with a little bit of friction.

Forget the rubber mallet, flame is the way. Cannot hammer in a coupler or tee, inside a hole with limited length off the poly pipe exposed. Slide on clamps, flame applied, lift ends of poly on angle, pop in the fitting, push poly assembly to level/straight and the fitting is seated properly. Crimp the clamps.

Flame also aids in dis-assembly of poly and also stubborn funny pipe connections.

For some reason, I always double-clamp the poly to valve connections. For double clamps, rotate the clamps so that the crimped nubs are splayed 45 to 90* apart. But, try to leave the crimp nub facing upwards. This way if it needs to come off, you just grab the nub with the crimpers and twist back-n-forth. Out in the field, single clamp. Unless the connection is under some strain.
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  #28  
Old 07-15-2010, 11:12 AM
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FIMCO-MEISTER FIMCO-MEISTER is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged View Post
Fimco are you going to the dark side, follow the light man. It's going to be interesting to see if your perspective changes on poly and manifolds. Enjoy the 80s the index is 107 here.
Lotta rotors here. Mostly Maxi-paws so far. I will say this for poly. Since you have more play it's easier to reassemble stuff without the cut accuracy needed with pvc. Back to pre slipfix days though. To get the bow you need to dig a little more of a ditch. Instead of glue and primer stains you get tired hand from crimping. My hands were so tough from 30 years of sprinkler work that in spite of a 2 year break I didn't develop a single blister.
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  #29  
Old 07-15-2010, 11:12 AM
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I use regular propane, and save the MAPP gas for sweating copper. Just be sure you keep the torch moving, and never heat the poly to the point of its becoming shiny (near to melting)

You can buy an Oetiker tool with longer handles, to ease the hand strain, if that troubles you.
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  #30  
Old 07-15-2010, 11:13 AM
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FIMCO-MEISTER FIMCO-MEISTER is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WalkGood View Post
Yup, the torch head that Boots showed. I use MAPP gas, same fuel I use for sweating Cu. Two seconds of heat in the end of the poly, fitting pops in with a little bit of friction.

Forget the rubber mallet, flame is the way. Cannot hammer in a coupler or tee, inside a hole with limited length off the poly pipe exposed. Slide on clamps, flame applied, lift ends of poly on angle, pop in the fitting, push poly assembly to level/straight and the fitting is seated properly. Crimp the clamps.

Flame also aids in dis-assembly of poly and also stubborn funny pipe connections.

For some reason, I always double-clamp the poly to valve connections. For double clamps, rotate the clamps so that the crimped nubs are splayed 45 to 90* apart. But, try to leave the crimp nub facing upwards. This way if it needs to come off, you just grab the nub with the crimpers and twist back-n-forth. Out in the field, single clamp. Unless the connection is under some strain.
Thanks I'll get the right stuff. I have a mc tank but that would be a pain to lug around.
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