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  #1  
Old 07-15-2010, 02:06 PM
tron tron is offline
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Help removing a wheel from spindle / axle with keyway

I have an older Great Dane 32" walk behind and need to remove the wheels in order to replace the brake bands. I can't get either wheel off the axles. I removed the 'C'-clip, applied some PBlaster and still can't get either side off.

I notice that there is a keyway and a square pin about 1/4" beyond the end of the axle. I'm thinking I need to drive that key farther into that keyway and wonder if this is the correct thing to do before I screw up things.

Here's a picture of the axle spindle for reference (and yes, I did remove the 'c' clip during the attempt to remove)

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Old 07-15-2010, 03:10 PM
Ruben Rocha Ruben Rocha is offline
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I am sure others have had to deal with this and have a better answer.
For me I would do the pbblaster like you did.
Then I might find a socket that is bigger than the axle shaft and use a air impact wrench.
If no wrench or socket find a piece of pipe bigger that the axle and tap it with a hammer.
It just might jar the rust loose.
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Old 07-15-2010, 05:40 PM
tron tron is offline
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Sounds like a good idea - and I still wonder if driving the key deeper will help or hurt?
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Old 07-15-2010, 07:52 PM
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Restrorob Restrorob is offline
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Most axle keyways are tapered at the one other end, Driving the key in-ward could cause it to lock the wheel on worse than it already is....
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Old 07-15-2010, 07:58 PM
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dutch1 dutch1 is online now
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Do not drive the key deeper as the keyway usually sweeps up at the back and this will only make the removal more difficult. Posting a larger picture may help. Is the wheel retained to a hub or does the wheel itself mount to the shaft.

I've worked on hundreds of Great Danes and I have to confess that this is the first unit I've seen with the e-clip retainer. All that I have seen are retained by a nut. This must be a very early model and I'm assuming it must be a belt drive since it has brakes.

If the unit still retains a model number, you may want to post them. Decks and power units normally have their own model numbers

Dutch
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Old 07-15-2010, 08:01 PM
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dutch1 dutch1 is online now
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Restro, you beat me again. I wasted too much time getting said what I wanted to.

Dutch
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Old 07-15-2010, 08:12 PM
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Restrorob Restrorob is offline
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Sorry Dutch, I'll type with one finger next time instead of all two !
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Old 07-15-2010, 08:22 PM
tron tron is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dutch1 View Post
Do not drive the key deeper as the keyway usually sweeps up at the back and this will only make the removal more difficult. Posting a larger picture may help. Is the wheel retained to a hub or does the wheel itself mount to the shaft.

I've worked on hundreds of Great Danes and I have to confess that this is the first unit I've seen with the e-clip retainer. All that I have seen are retained by a nut. This must be a very early model and I'm assuming it must be a belt drive since it has brakes.

If the unit still retains a model number, you may want to post them. Decks and power units normally have their own model numbers

Dutch
Thanks for your reply -

It's a older belt drive 32" Champ and the wheels are mounted on a smooth spindle/axle that terminates with a bevel where the C-clip holds the wheel on.

Behind each wheel is the brake band.


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Old 07-15-2010, 08:57 PM
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ffemt1271 ffemt1271 is offline
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take the clip off, and get a pointed punch and stick in the hole in center of shaft and hit it with a hammer, should jar it loose
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Old 07-15-2010, 09:05 PM
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Now I remember the Champ since you mentioned it. The shop I worked in took on the GD line in 98 or 99. We got one in a stock order and it sold quickly and they were never reordered. Never really took the opportunity to look the unit over closely.

Your wheel is mounted on a cylindrical shaft with key and e-clip. Be patient--apply Kroil, Fluid Film, PB Blaster, whatever to both outside and inside if you can. If the wheel has not been off, it likely has a lot of rust buildup between shaft and hub. If you can get someone to help you to apply outward pressure between the frame and wheel you can use a brass hammer or preferrably a 3 or 4 pound lead weighted polyurethane hammer to hit the shaft. It likely take some shock treatment to persuade it to come off. Avoid the use of a steel hammer on the shaft as you will likely mushroom the shaft end preventing the wheel to come off. Aggressive use of a brass hammer will also mushroom the shaft. Be patient and use common sense.

If you don't have any luck, you may have to pull the tire off the rim and apply some heat to the assembly with an oxy/acet torch. In doing so avoid letting heat transfer back to the transmission seals.

Dutch
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