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  #11  
Old 07-16-2010, 11:28 PM
Tom Tom Tom Tom is offline
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Do a flow test at a pressure you want to find the exact flow available.

All you need is a simple setup like this:

Adjust the ball valve until the pressure you want is shown on the gauge.
Time how long it takes to fill up the bucket and do the math to get gpm.
You can check the flow after your backflow or after a zone valve.
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  #12  
Old 07-16-2010, 11:31 PM
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mitchgo mitchgo is offline
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If your code allows DC's for irrigation then install at the meter
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  #13  
Old 07-17-2010, 12:34 AM
WalkGood WalkGood is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayinMI View Post
The WHOLE house is 1/2 copper EVERYWHERE.
The feed from the town water to the water meter is 1/2 inch Cu Type-K? Meter size? Unusual to have less than 3/4" as water main from the meter even if the meter is 5/8".

Do you have room to tee off of your side of the water meter? Some vaults are tight, others are like burial crypts with much room.
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  #14  
Old 07-17-2010, 06:09 AM
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IVe done em off of 1/2 inch before. Had one where the utility room was in the middle of a finished basement. Cut off the spigot and soldered 1/2 x 3/4 then 3/4 x 1 " and had at it. System works fine, but I was sweating bullets starting it up.
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  #15  
Old 07-17-2010, 08:05 AM
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JayinMI JayinMI is offline
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I can tie in off the meter, but it is in the middle of the yard and I do not want to spend the money on that. Plus its about only 12" in diameter so no room to do work in unless I rip it all out.

I did happen to find 3/4 pipe last night. It comes out of the cement floor in the utility room in the middle of the house. There is only about 8 inches of 3/4 before it turns into 1/2 inch and goes to the hot water tank.

I could tie in there and run it up into the attic and then through the attic out the side of the house at the top then down the side of the house into the PVB.

AI how many heads did you have on that system? What was the PSI if you remember?
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  #16  
Old 07-17-2010, 08:08 AM
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Wet_Boots Wet_Boots is online now
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Echo the meter pit connection if you are in DCVA territory. I even see occasional RPZs in meter pits, owing to an obscure clause in local codes that allow them on the provision that the pit is not in a flood zone. The direct connection saves messing with old house plumbing, and simplifies the system design enough to get back the money spent on the meter pit plumbing. Plus, you have total system access for winterizing, even if no one is at home.

By the way, there is a specialty fitting made for just this occasion ~ a meter tailpiece tee.
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  #17  
Old 07-17-2010, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayinMI View Post

AI how many heads did you have on that system? What was the PSI if you remember?
PSI weas around 60 . 4 rotor per zone , pgp,s with 2,3,4s
did the tap , then did another flow test. My oruiginal plan was 3
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  #18  
Old 07-17-2010, 08:39 AM
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Every foot of indoor copper plumbing you eliminate is dollars in your pocket.
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  #19  
Old 07-17-2010, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Wet_Boots View Post
Every foot of indoor copper plumbing you eliminate is dollars in your pocket.
Thats the way I see it, get out of the house asap.
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  #20  
Old 07-17-2010, 09:16 AM
koster_irrigation koster_irrigation is offline
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I would try my BEST to tie into the 3/4" line by all means. Your shooting yourself in the foot by running it off that 1/2"

If it means extending that 8" piece up higher so you can get a tee in there with a shut off, do it!
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