Beast 54ZB Commercial ZTR

[samendolaro]

I think they are mentioning this becasue of the way the tensioner is positioned. This isn't a tention wheel where you pry a screwdriver under the pully to tighten it. On the beast its just a bolt in the back. I think the way they created the tention makes it real easy to put a rachet on there and tighten too much. Personally I snap a LOT of bolts when I tighten freehand . For me it usually doesn't feel tight enough until something snaps . I believe you would need to sevearly overtighten that tension screw to do some damage but I think it would be easy to do if you dodn't know any better.

It has noithing to do with the strength of the shaft. 99.999% of people are not going to change to a "WET setting" but I guess you could and mark the bolt to a wet and dry position .

[TWerner]

Not my point. My point is you can adjust the tension at rest, but the tension goes up when you drive the wheels, and every time you hit a bump .... Over time, that might equal a lot of wear and tear on the bearings if your shaft is only supported on one side.
I also said they should be able to design around that issue. Motorcycles engines do.

[samendolaro]

I don't think thats the case. The wheels are mounted to the frame . Just like a motorcycle wheel. The frame would take the impact not the pully

[TWerner]

Sam,
Pretend you are turning the back wheel with a rope loop. To do it, you have to pull on the rope. That adds tension to the rope. So the rope is pulling back just as hard. If you are pulling at a good clip and the back wheel hits a bump, it's going to pull back harder. Maybe the rope will slip and give you rope burn, maybe it will pull you off your feet. I don't know, but pulling you off your feet is sort of like bending the hydro pulley, and if I can pull you off your feet by tightening a bolt a 1/2 turn too much, then I'd worry that maybe I could pull you off your feet after a few months of hitting bumps unless we made you very strong. Maybe Beastly strong
Todd

[GordonwJackson]

Originally Posted by TWerner

Sam,
Pretend you are turning the back wheel with a rope loop. To do it, you have to pull on the rope. That adds tension to the rope. So the rope is pulling back just as hard. If you are pulling at a good clip and the back wheel hits a bump, it's going to pull back harder. Maybe the rope will slip and give you rope burn, maybe it will pull you off your feet. I don't know, but pulling you off your feet is sort of like bending the hydro pulley, and if I can pull you off your feet by tightening a bolt a 1/2 turn too much, then I'd worry that maybe I could pull you off your feet after a few months of hitting bumps unless we made you very strong. Maybe Beastly strong
Todd

It would probably be easier to describe the physics / forces with the system in front of you. Basically, at the hydro end of the system the torque levels are low and RPM is high. The belt and gearbox boost torque as they reduce RPM. The biggest step up in torque / RPM reduction is inside the gearbox, the torque levels on the belt are moderate to low. The final drive gearbox is very strong and mounts solidly to the frame. Likewise the hydros mount to the frame. Belt tension (lateral deflection of the belt) will not vary much during operation unless the frame were to flex which, given the geometry, is reasonably unlikely. The axle shaft that supports the wheels sees much more torque and lateral forces upon impact than the hydro output shaft. The pulleys / belt / final drive have proven to be a robust, durable solution.

The hydro tension bolts have retaining locks to prevent inadvertent / unintentional adjustment. If you remove the locks and don't know what you are doing, you can damage the hydros. Its not easy to damage them, it takes some effort, but it can be done.

The adjustment bolts are hex bolts, 6 sided. The bolt lock is a hex retainer. One side of the hex bolt head is marked for easy reference. GXi suggests adjustments be made in 1/6th rotation turns so the adjustment bolt will fit back into the bolt lock. 1/6 or 2/6 of a turn in either direction provides a good range of performance. There is no need to ever turn the bolts more than a half turn (3/6) either way unless you were releasing the entire system. If doing this, then you must follow the instructions to re-set the tension to factory settings.


I hope this description helps.

[samendolaro]

Twerner, your working on the assumption that it is the wheel is giving with every bump. doesn't work like that . The Wheel is attached to the frame it is not going to move when you hit anything . If that weel flexed like you are saying the wheel would stress and fail in a month. That wheel is most likely as solid as a pully on a crankshaft. You would endup bending the wheel before impacting that pully.

[GMLC]

Twerner isn't talking about the wheel flexing. He is talking about sudden speed changes that could be caused by the wheel hitting a bump. Now you have give in the belt that snaps back like tug of war and stresses components over time. At least that's how I understood it.
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[TWerner]

Never mind Sam, I can't seem to explain it to you, but Gordon got it.

They are limitting the torque and tension on the pulley via the reduction gearing. My friend and I build a go cart with a similar system when we were kids and it worked great.

[GMLC]

I car terms its called chatter. When doing a burn out and the car starts hoping it destroys drive line components. U joints are usually first to break.
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[nepatsfan]

Gordon why the selective responses. Are you and gmlc gonna race or what?