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Old 08-06-2010, 02:04 PM
rabernethy4 rabernethy4 is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 17
Overseeding Advice

Hello. I recently moved into a new house in SE Michigan. The lawn looks OK, but I've run into a couple problems. First, I got blasted by dollar spot and spurge. I'm currently trying to control both of those problems. Second, the soil seems pretty compacted and there's a lot of thatch. Judging by the condition of the rest of the landscaping, I'd say the lawn has been a bit neglected over the years. I decided I would overseed the lawn this fall and I'm looking for some advice since I've never done this before.

Here's some more background info:
  • I think the lawn is mostly KBG, but I'll snag some pictures tonight and confirm
  • The backyard has a large expanse that gets a lot of sun and a lot of traffic (kids)
  • Due to the grade, the sides of the house tend to stay wetter longer
  • There are a couple trees, but overall the lawn is really sunny
Here's my plan:
  1. Thoroughly water lawn the day before
  2. Mow existing grass (1.5 to 2 inches; collect clippings)
  3. Dethatch
  4. Aerate (2 to 3 passes; 20 to 40 holes per sq. foot)
  5. Apply seed
  6. Apply compost topdressing
  7. Apply fertilizer
  8. Irrigate appropriately
Here are my questions:
  • What kind of seed should I get?
  • What kind of fertilizer should I get and when should I apply it?
  • What's the proper irrigation schedule after overseeding?
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  #2  
Old 08-06-2010, 02:05 PM
rabernethy4 rabernethy4 is offline
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Location: Michigan
Posts: 17
What is the difference between these Scott's products?
  • TurfBuilder Sun & Shade Mix
  • TurfBuilder High Traffic Mix
  • TurfBuilder Heat-Tolerant Blue Mix
  • TurfBuilder Kentucky Bluegrass Mix
I assume they have different cultivars and mix ratios, but I'm finding it hard to figure what they are and which type is appropriate. Any suggestions?
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  #3  
Old 08-06-2010, 11:29 PM
rabernethy4 rabernethy4 is offline
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Location: Michigan
Posts: 17
This thread needs more pictures! Can you tell what type of grass that is? Nothing had seed heads, unfortunately.
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  #4  
Old 08-06-2010, 11:43 PM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
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Location: Central Wisconsin
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Get the water away from the house... Very dangerous situation in the midwest...
__________________
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #5  
Old 08-09-2010, 10:02 AM
rabernethy4 rabernethy4 is offline
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Any suggestions on the seed type? Do I need to dethatch if I'm aerating?
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  #6  
Old 08-09-2010, 12:41 PM
ICT Bill ICT Bill is offline
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Location: Howard County MD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabernethy4 View Post
Any suggestions on the seed type? Do I need to dethatch if I'm aerating?
speak with your local extension agent they know the varieties that work best in your area, I personally like "midnight" KBG it is very disease resistant and has great color, it also uses less water and fert to look good

whatever you pick look at the label and look for "weed seeds" percentage you will find that the cheaper seed has lots of weed seeds sometimes as much as 10%, DO NOT buy the cheap seed because of this. You often get what you pay for with seed

you have time, do a little research on how old the varieties are in the mix, you want newer varieties that have better disease resistance
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  #7  
Old 08-09-2010, 01:17 PM
nepatsfan nepatsfan is offline
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Location: Franklin MA
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I would aerate and overseed in the fall. Dethatch in the spring.
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  #8  
Old 08-09-2010, 01:25 PM
rabernethy4 rabernethy4 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ICT Bill View Post
...local extension agent...
I've seen this mentioned a few times, but I have no idea what it means. How do I go about finding a local extension agent?
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  #9  
Old 08-09-2010, 01:32 PM
ICT Bill ICT Bill is offline
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Location: Howard County MD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabernethy4 View Post
I've seen this mentioned a few times, but I have no idea what it means. How do I go about finding a local extension agent?
most often they are through your state university and normally cover a defined area like a county

http://www.msue.msu.edu/portal/
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  #10  
Old 08-09-2010, 01:57 PM
rabernethy4 rabernethy4 is offline
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Location: Michigan
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Thanks - that helps to clarify. I e-mailed my county's extension last week regarding soil testing so it looks like I can follow-up with them regarding seed types.
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