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  #11  
Old 08-06-2010, 10:46 PM
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irritation irritation is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Hanson View Post
I'm sorry.... where do I send the sympathy card?
To all homeowners with Flo-Pro's.
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  #12  
Old 08-07-2010, 04:41 AM
manfromearth manfromearth is offline
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Originally Posted by irritation View Post
Probably a 250 series, does it look like this.....

Thank you,,,yes, I believe that is the one.
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  #13  
Old 08-07-2010, 07:26 AM
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CAPT Stream Rotar CAPT Stream Rotar is offline
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we call those POS needle valves.
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  #14  
Old 08-07-2010, 07:58 AM
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HokieAg07 HokieAg07 is offline
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I dont understand the hatred for the Toro 250/252/254 series valves...Great, reliable valves.
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  #15  
Old 08-07-2010, 08:40 AM
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They are hate-able for the way they behave when winterizing them by using the bleed screws. Otherwise, decent valve.
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  #16  
Old 08-07-2010, 08:42 AM
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they preform poorly up north hokie.

My guess is that they don't take kindly to cold weather......
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  #17  
Old 08-07-2010, 08:43 AM
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AI Inc AI Inc is offline
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They like to stay open after opening manualy. Kinda like the old RB needle valves.
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  #18  
Old 08-07-2010, 09:12 AM
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I made myself a little rig for manually energizing the solenoid coil from the valve box - two nine-volt batteries and a switch and insulation-piercing clips - makes Toro 250 winterizings endurable.
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  #19  
Old 08-07-2010, 11:29 AM
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1idejim 1idejim is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wet_Boots View Post
I made myself a little rig for manually energizing the solenoid coil from the valve box - two nine-volt batteries and a switch and insulation-piercing clips - makes Toro 250 winterizings endurable.
you're describing a stationmaster big guy, three batteries configured similarly will give you 27 vlts., enough to bump most solenoids.

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  #20  
Old 08-07-2010, 11:37 AM
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18 VDC should trigger any 24VAC solenoid, no need for the extra battery. My rig cost three bucks, including batteries
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