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  #11  
Old 08-08-2010, 03:14 PM
DUSTYCEDAR's Avatar
DUSTYCEDAR DUSTYCEDAR is offline
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ICT products work well for what u r trying to do
aerate the lawn and spray ict
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  #12  
Old 08-08-2010, 04:47 PM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DUSTYCEDAR View Post
ICT products work well for what u r trying to do
aerate the lawn and spray ict
I was wondering if the extract would ever, get discussed.

What would we notice in the turf, were we to apply, the extracts or the quality compost?

How quickly could we physically see those changes?

Would the addition of , molasses, for exa., accelerate those changes?

Most importantly, what would a client be able to see, when they are all excited as in the case of the OP?
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #13  
Old 05-11-2011, 09:55 PM
OrganicsMaine OrganicsMaine is offline
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ok, I know that this is an old thread, but I am working on a lawn now where I had a hard time getting the aerator to penetrate the thatch....had to actually fill the front roller w/water.

So, I am seriously considering trying the ICT approach. Thatch is def. 1+" thick, will this help. There is plenty of organic matter in the thatch layer, currently waiting for the soil test to come back.

Do I need to add molasses?

Hopefully some of you will read this and come back to it!
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  #14  
Old 05-12-2011, 09:44 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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You mean that you sometmes run the aerator without water in the front roller?
Is it a plugger?
Are you talking 'real thatch' or brown mulch? Was it fertilized and root inhibitted before it broke dormancy?

Essentially, if the cultural practices that create real thatch continue, these digesting products are a waste of money... They will being adding N to an already N rich environment and rapid stem/root growth in the thatch layer...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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  #15  
Old 05-12-2011, 10:23 AM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is offline
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Lots of homeowners think that brown grass is a sign of excessive thatch. Often it is a sign of a bluegrass type that greens up slowly in the spring. Apply the liquid thatch and it will be green in two weeks. Sometimes the problem is an unusually aggresive type of bluegrass. The sports type bluegrasses are highy rhizomatous, also some types that are popular with sod growers--they really knit together tightly. Given good care they get thick. Its their nature. Work with it, or try to thin it out by reducing your yearly nitrogen by 50 percent. Perhaps boost the potash to keep up disease resistance. Thick tight grass really resists weeds--no soil visible--that is a good thing.

Power-raking is heavy work. The liquid product is so much easier.
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