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  #11  
Old 09-07-2010, 04:39 PM
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txgrassguy txgrassguy is offline
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I pulled all of the old Total Control and Irritrol clocks off my properties quite some time ago. Similar problems where the fuse blew and the clock went dead. Got sick and tired of carrying spare fuses too.

Seem to remember some of these older models had a fuse block mounted in the rear of the controller face plate - to access you need to remove the small phillips screws and carefully open the back panel to avoid snapping the plastic dog ears.

Presuming no field wiring problem or funky a/c power to the controller is the culprit, I'd replace it with an up-dated unit. Personally I haven't seen one of these controllers with a build date newer than '97 or so.
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  #12  
Old 09-07-2010, 11:28 PM
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Funny how different people have different results with the same clock. I used to install the Rain Dials all the time. It used to be my favorite clock for customers that aren't "digital friendly". Its simple and people seem to be able to figure them out. You have to keep the door shut, though.

As irrig8tr posted, to replace the transformer, un-plug the panel and pull it from the hinges. It just snaps out. The get a flat blade screw driver and pop out the black frame. On the old Hardie models there is a screw under the sticker on the right. None of the Irritrols have the screw. Once the black frame is removed you can unscrew the transformer. The transformer is a pretty common here. Most of the supple houses carry them.

Sprinkus: That chattering is a repairable issue if you have someone local who repairs irrigation clocks.
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  #13  
Old 09-08-2010, 08:17 AM
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Sprinkus Sprinkus is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inspired View Post
Sprinkus: That chattering is a repairable issue if you have someone local who repairs irrigation clocks.
Not needed on this particular job, replacement was preferable as system needed to be operational same day.
Anyway that particular controller was having programming issues too.
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  #14  
Old 09-08-2010, 10:17 AM
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Speaking of irritrol, has anyone jumped on their remote?
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  #15  
Old 09-08-2010, 10:31 AM
irrig8r irrig8r is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AI Inc View Post
Speaking of irritrol, has anyone jumped on their remote?
No need to now that I have my Pro Max UA and Peter has pigtails. :-)
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  #16  
Old 09-08-2010, 07:48 PM
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Sprinkus Sprinkus is offline
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Quote:
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Speaking of irritrol, has anyone jumped on their remote?
As in using it or stomping it into little pieces?
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  #17  
Old 09-09-2010, 02:17 AM
ohenry ohenry is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irrig8r View Post
Lo and behold... see pages 34 and 9 of this manual:

http://www.irritrol.com/controller_m...raindial07.pdf

It shows but doesn't identify the MOVs, but apparently the fuse protects the transformer. I just went and looked at 5 old ones I have in the garage (replaced with larger units over the years, kept these as back ups) and they don't have either the large MOVS or the fuse... of course the newest one is from 2000.
Yep, thanks, I had looked up the same thing. The circuit board inside this clock does not look quite like the drawing on page 9 of the manual, though the model number is the same. Various little details are not the same but most importantly, there's no fuse. Instead, in that area, there's a small circular object -- looks a little like the capacitors we learned about in school but I am guessing by your message it's an MOV.

So... is an MOV replaceable? Does it even need to be replaced?


Quote:
Originally Posted by irrig8r View Post
But I would also (in the immortal words of Mike Leary) "ohm out" (use an ohmeter to get resistance readings) all the zones to see if there are any shorts.

Irritrol's current use of the fuse seems to suggest that shorts in field wiring have caused damage to transformers, though I don't recall running into that...
Ahh, yes, the rest of the details start to come out. I should have mentioned this in the first place.

I have not ohmed-out the zone circuits but there was an obvious problem. The valve box (three feet away from controller) was full of water. There's a pinhole leak from one of the valves that filled up the box. I am assuming some of the wire splices were submerged at that point. This, presumably, caused a short when a program ran. The wire splices are actually OK; whoever installed them used the dry-con wire nuts. But still. I doubt those can survive being submerged for long.

My apologies: I'm feeling remiss for not mentioning this detail up front. It was obvious to me this probably caused the problem, but I was just focused here on asking about the clock.

So, knowing that, any thoughts on whether I assume the transformer's dead, replacement, etc.?

And yes, I realize, if the splices get submerged again the problem probably will happen again. And that the valve leak has to be fixed. I explained this to him.

Honestly, you don't even want to hear about the system. It's a real patch job, the kind you guys would have a field day with. Two separate systems with separate timers; ASVs in the ground in valve boxes (yeah, I know ). I think all of it, except this clock, was installed before he became the H.O.

I've been gently explaining the problems and recommending that he get a PVB and re-do all the valves. But I don't want to try to take responsibility for correcting everything until he's ready to make it all right.

For now, he's watering by using the external bleeds, and I'm just trying to see if the clock is fixable or shot.

When I can get back there I'll see about prying off the plastic cover to access the transformer. The way this unit is built it kind of seems like they don't want you to access it.

(Separate funny note about the system: Two sets of valves. Three on this clock, three others on an Orbit battery-powered clock... yeah... Funny thing is, the RD600 should have the capacity to run all those valves. I told him we could wire it up to the others pretty easily so he wouldn't have two clocks. But then, the Irritrol's dead right now.)
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