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  #11  
Old 09-22-2010, 11:40 AM
1966vette 1966vette is offline
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I used the [B]"tilt & ease"[/B] method & it still bunted (2) belts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoJo1990 View Post
I agree that it is by far the highest quality and easiest machine to use for slit seeding. Remember to engage the slice blades with them OFF of the ground. Simply tilt the unit downward (like a mower changing directions) then engage the cutting discs. This will prevent the discs from getting hung up on the ground and causing the flywheels from slipping and burning the belt. I also agree to not mess around with the 6HP units and go right to a 9HP. Unless I hit some really unveven and tough ground, my 9 can also pull me around using a sulky, although just a touch slower forward pace.

Simply tilt the unit downward (like a mower changing directions) then engage the cutting discs.

I used the "tilt & ease" method & it still bunted (2) belts.

This is a commercial machine & it should be not have to be babied to get it to work properly.

Base on my experience, 8 hrs - 6 HP unit & 8 hrs - 9 HP unit, the belt and pulley drive system is under designed.

I would like to see a much larger belt & pulley system utilized or a (2) belt system implemented.

“This is a commercial machine & it should not require “tilt & ease” to prevent the belt from smoking!

I have a ZTR & engage the belt in the middle of uncut lawn all the time w/o any problems.

Andy
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  #12  
Old 09-22-2010, 12:09 PM
JoJo1990 JoJo1990 is offline
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I'm reminded of the fact it's a commercial unit each time I remember how much I paid for it. I'm wondering if in your case someone who rented it before you got it hung up on concrete or a big tree root and just let it sit there causing a pulley to come out of alignment. That's the problem with rentals sometimes. You could always call LS and get some tech support right from the guys who make the units...they have always been very helpful.
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  #13  
Old 09-22-2010, 12:42 PM
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EastCoast EastCoast is offline
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Both of you are missing the point.... the reason the belts are smoking is because you have the dept guage lowered without the cutter blades down.

Either put the both the depth guage & the cutter blades down OR release both the cutter blades AND the depth guage.
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  #14  
Old 09-23-2010, 09:24 AM
JoJo1990 JoJo1990 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoast View Post
Both of you are missing the point.... the reason the belts are smoking is because you have the dept guage lowered without the cutter blades down.

Either put the both the depth guage & the cutter blades down OR release both the cutter blades AND the depth guage.

That doesn't make sense. If you have the unit tilted to the blades are NOT touching the ground, it doesn't matter if the blade depth is set or not because they are not in contact with the ground. If the blades are set at the proper .5" depth and then you make contact with the ground, while having the cutting blades engaged, you should not smoke a belt. Are we all tracking now?
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  #15  
Old 09-25-2010, 11:18 PM
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LawnSolutionsCP LawnSolutionsCP is offline
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The belt smoked because the belt was not adjusted correctly from when the 1st put it on. Belts stretch, especially ones that are clutching. The machine is designed where the engine will stall before the belt ever slips when setup correctly. We use the same setup on 13.5 hp machines with no issues on commerical customers who run them 200+ hours per year which is a ton for a seeder.

The problem was either the belts were not correcly installed, or they were not OEM belts. All belts are not the same and rental store often try to purchase a "generic" belt for all machines. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't.

Normally it is just a lack of understand how to service the machine. Its in the manual, but seldom gets looked at.
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  #16  
Old 09-26-2010, 09:19 AM
1966vette 1966vette is offline
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1. I verified that both 6 HP & 9 HP units had OEM belts that smoked. The rental agent even looked up the maintenance records on the 6 HP unit & it was replaced in June of this year w/ an OEM belt. There were no records of how many hrs were on the unit before or after the belt was replaced.

2. Belts were not adjusted correctly when initially installed –
No data to dispute this claim. However, the 9 HP unit only had 20 hr of total use. Is it clearly stated in the owner’s manual to readjust the belt during the first 20 hrs of use or the belt will smoke?

3. Belts stretch, especially ones that are clutching -
I agree

4. The machine is designed where the engine will stall before the belt ever slips when setup correctly.
Base on my 16 hours of Revitalizer use, 8 hrs - 6 HP & 8 hrs 9 HP, the belts & pulley design / maintenance problems are the weak link of the system for the following reasons:

a. No belt path diagram on the back of the belt cover. If you want the user to be impressed w/ your machine provide the required information on the back of the belt cover even if it is in the manual.
b. The 6 HP unit had a worn belt idler pulley & which indicates a lack of maintenance or an improperly designed system, all other pulleys were in good shape.
c. I installed (2) new belts, one on a 6 HP & 9 HP unit, & had no problems w/ machine performance afterwards.

5. You have a very good machine. However, I would want answers to the belt / pulley design / maintenance questions before I would purchase a Revitalizer.
a. How can the above belt / pulley problems be prevented?
b. Is it fair to place all the assignable causes for the belt / pulley problems on the rental store & users?
c. Does Lawn Solution have any responsibility for the above problems?
d. Would a larger or (2) belt / pulley system help resolve the above problems?

6. We use the same setup on 13.5 hp machines with no issues on commercial customers who run them 200+ hours per year which is a ton for a seeder. –
This is an impressive statement. However, the 6 HP & 9 HP units that I rented did not achieve this performance.
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  #17  
Old 09-26-2010, 10:05 AM
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LawnSolutionsCP LawnSolutionsCP is offline
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The diagram on the inside of the belt cover is a great idea.

The only real way to prevent the customer from doing any maintenance is having a belt with a tensioner and clutch like on a mower .....one might be in the works.....hmmm. The first generation design is now 5-years old.
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  #18  
Old 09-27-2010, 09:51 AM
1966vette 1966vette is offline
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I'm glad you are open to suggestions regarding The Revitalizer performance:
The following are a few to consider for your list:
1. Additional handle height adjustments – easier to use for tall folk.
2. Designed to start cutting w/o the “lift & ease” method of engagement. It’s a commercial machine & most of the guys use the “drop the clutch & go” method of engagement.
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  #19  
Old 09-27-2010, 11:06 AM
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Runner Runner is offline
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The lift and ease is how EVERY seeder works...regardless of the brand. It is no different than any power edger out there, or bed edger on the market. The directions say to keep blade(s) out of the ground to let the belt engage fully and set in. It is a common sense thing. Any belt driven apparatus is going to use the same method. A belt driven snow blower for example is NOT designed to jam into a snow bank, and then engage the auger. A roto-tiller like on a tractor is not designed to lower down into the ground, then engage the tiller. It is not the machine, it is the physics of belt operation. They are designed to operate at full belt tension - meaning the pto has to engage when not under load to achieve the rotation before full tension is put on. Once FULL tension is on the belt (with whatever tension is calculated to run the pto under given predicted conditions), then the machine is able to run and do it's task under load. Once a belt is attempted to be engaged when the working end is under load, the leverage is all off for what the machine is designed for. The pulley will spin on the belt, creating a groove and/or glaze, and making a spot that the belt will be more prone to spin on. This area then easily increases in size. It is kind of like when a gear in a starter or flywheel chips or starts to go bad. Eventually, that spot is going to get hit again and again - increasing it every time you hear that "grind" noise. Eventually, it gets to the point where it no longer moves and has to be replaced.
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  #20  
Old 10-04-2010, 03:22 PM
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jnt412 jnt412 is offline
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I also rented a TR this past weekend from True Value Hardware that opened earlier last year. I had problems with the seeder going up hills and it actually stalled twice while trying to seed up hill. After pushing this heavy machine up hill and cursing the hell out of it I finally got the job completed. It even struggled going up the gate of my trailer with a empty hopper. My plan was to seed my yard with it as well, but I was highly disappointed and left it on my trailer to be returned the next morning. It wasn’t a very good first experience due to a belt slipping of some sort. I’ve had walkbehind mowers that I abused like Ike and Tina and I never had problems struggling up hill.
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