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Old 10-22-2010, 11:08 PM
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knox gsl knox gsl is online now
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LCO putting in irrigation.

I'm wanting to find out some info from some pros if I'm biting off more than I can chew on this. I have a lawn care business, but do not do any sprinkler work. I'm wanting to put a system in for my home, nothing complicated just a basic system. The only thing I think that may be optional would be putting a liquid fert injector with it, I'm not sure how well those systems work. I have 22K sq ft of turf and about 3k of bed area. I also understand that I will need to know the static psi and gallons per min. Also if you could give me some kind of idea of material cost are we talking $1K or are we talking $4K, and I understand that you have no idea of my property layout, but just would like a rough idea. I know there is alot more to it than I'm making this sound like, but I would like some basic idea of what to expect if I jump on this. As far as the plumbing and electrical part of this go, I have several years of industrial HVAC experience and understand low voltage better than most people. Thanks for any help.
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Old 10-22-2010, 11:44 PM
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mitchgo mitchgo is offline
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I think first you should decide what your budget is, what your willing to spend on a sprinkler system.

It sounds to be 8-12 zones depending on the design and layout and several other things.

Are you having a company install this or doing this your self?
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Old 10-22-2010, 11:58 PM
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I'm wanting to DIY it. I think it may be a stretch but would like to keep everything under $3K with all supplies and equipment rental. I have done a few repairs on sprinkler heads before helping my father-in-law. But nothing like doing a whole install. I have access to John Deere Landscapes and Toro as suppliers so I won't be paying retail for most of my supplies. I just got to thinking that most of these parts for a system don't cost that much untill you understand how many parts are involved. Five dollars here twenty dollars there several thousand feet of pipe starts adding up fast.
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Old 10-23-2010, 12:00 AM
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Mike Leary Mike Leary is offline
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Are you on a public water system? If so they can tell you the backflow regulations for your proposed system, they may also be able to help with the pressure available at the meter. Fert injection works well, what's pricey is a reduced pressure backflow assembly since injection is considered a high hazard.
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Old 10-23-2010, 12:23 AM
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At the meter I have approximatly 50 psi and I will have to have a backflow installed by a plumber. There are also yearly backflow checks that I will have to get from the water dept. With the fert. injection system can I get herbicide in it as well, and how do these compare to the standard way of applying it. My main goal is to have a lush lawn with out having to drag hoses around the yard and always fighting weeds. I think I can get the backflow valve I'll be needing for less than $300, but that was the desk guy at Toro guessing at it.
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Old 10-23-2010, 12:44 AM
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Mike Leary Mike Leary is offline
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Organics are available for injection. Chemical herbicides were prohibited on all my sites. Go to another part of the forum, prechance there is organic option these days, or maybe another irri member knows. A R.P.B.A. is code for ALL high hazards.
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Old 10-23-2010, 08:48 AM
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DanaMac DanaMac is offline
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Put the fert system on the back burner for now. That can be added later, especially if you plan for it and keep a place open for it to be added. That will save a few bucks for now.
Is the $300 for the backflow preventer (BFP) with labor included? Not sure what BFP you are looking at, but if you use a fert system you want to have a Reduced Pressure Assembly (RP), and contractor cost at the supply house is typically $150-$200 for a 3/4" or 1" in our area.
If you're thinking of adding this to your services, installing a system at your own home is the perfect place to start. You WILL screw things up a few times, so learning at home is better than a paying customers home.
Put your knowledge of HVAC and low voltage aside for now. We've seen "licensed" plumbers screw up a sprinkler system because they "knew what they were doing".

I don't install systems, only service them, so I can't give a number on materials costs.
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Old 10-23-2010, 09:47 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenstarlawns View Post
At the meter I have approximatly 50 psi and I will have to have a backflow installed by a plumber. There are also yearly backflow checks that I will have to get from the water dept. With the fert. injection system can I get herbicide in it as well, and how do these compare to the standard way of applying it. My main goal is to have a lush lawn with out having to drag hoses around the yard and always fighting weeds. I think I can get the backflow valve I'll be needing for less than $300, but that was the desk guy at Toro guessing at it.
Fert injection in most cases is a waste-o-money IMO, and applying herbicides though it is a very bad idea and may not even be legal as Mike pointed out. If you want a lush lawn with minimal inputs (including maintenance), then you need to be visiting the organics forum.

With respect to irrigation, a properly designed and managed irrigation system will make or break your landscape, especially if it is heavily dependent on supplemental water obtained from the irrigation system. In other words, don't cheap it out. Spend the money and time to do it right the first time.
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Old 10-23-2010, 12:10 PM
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Wet_Boots Wet_Boots is offline
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With 50 psi static pressure on the supply side, you do not consider any sort of injection system.
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  #10  
Old 10-23-2010, 04:19 PM
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Waterlogged Waterlogged is offline
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Instead of guessing on the parts cost, I would suggest doing a drawing (or having someone else do the drawing) and getting a parts takeoff from the supplier. It saves alot of headaches and money to do a some planning ahead of time.
As for the fertilizer injector and installing an R/P, if you're starting at 50, you may lose 10-12 psi. That would take some serious design knowledge to get the system to work properly. I might skip the injector at this point.
If at all possible, loop your mainline. This will save you some psi loss. I know this may not be practical, dependent on the property.
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