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  #11  
Old 02-07-2011, 11:32 AM
sshklov sshklov is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
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My tracks were also chewed up a bit on the inside of the squirrel cage. I'm thinking of swapping the tracks left side to right side or possibly flipping each side. Did ASV have and explanation as to why the insides get chewed up?
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  #12  
Old 02-07-2011, 12:47 PM
swanny swanny is offline
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Location: mt. airy maryland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sshklov View Post
I was just talking with the hydraulics guy (Will) at Terex.

Physically the drive motors would be compatible but the problem is that when Terex started using the Sauer motors the brakeing of the machine is accomplished with the motor not the way it used to be with the Eaton motor and the external hydrualic cyclinder that jams into the sproket.

There would be some changes that you would have to make to the case drain pluming on the Sauer motor.

Also the fellow suggested that I could move the 1/4 pilot controls from one Rexroth pump to the other to see if i could move the problem from one side to the other. These lines are long enough to actually just swap from one pump to the other.

Terex is actually out there to help if you need them...

As far as the part number for the motor; it sure seems to be confusing because Charlynn Eaton currently uses a 24 digit number to fully describe their 4000 compact series line of motors. The eaton dealer up here is trying to see if the 167-0024-001 is a part number that he can get parts for?
That's interesting info about the motors.

Your Eaton dealer will be able to find parts....its' just a matter of how long do you want to wait because of the proprietary rights ASV has on them.

The bearing and shaft assembly is available here (steep price though):

It's specified as #48 http://www.trackloaderparts.net/ASV-RC30-09A.aspx
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  #13  
Old 02-07-2011, 01:01 PM
swanny swanny is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sshklov View Post
My tracks were also chewed up a bit on the inside of the squirrel cage. I'm thinking of swapping the tracks left side to right side or possibly flipping each side. Did ASV have and explanation as to why the insides get chewed up?
Alignment of drive motors and squirrel cages have some responsibility here. I have found that you have to be careful when tightening your drive motor bolts or else the motor shaft alignment can be off a few degrees. Tighten them like you would a rim on a front wheel drive car...opposing bolts and incrementally.

Take notice when you install the bearing mount ( #21 http://www.trackloaderparts.net/ASV-RC30-13A.aspx ) to see if there is much of a gap where it meets the motor mounting bracket ( #14 http://www.trackloaderparts.net/ASV-RC30-13A.aspx ). If there is a lot of gap you can throw the shaft alignment off when you go to bolt them together.

I had my daughter sit in the machine when I had the tracks off to spin the drive motors to watch if anything was bent.

Not sure how long these will last, but they are much nicer than the noisy metal sleeves: http://www.bairproductsinc.com/products/sprocket.html
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  #14  
Old 02-07-2011, 08:27 PM
sshklov sshklov is offline
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Earlier today I was talking to: Char-Lynn Motor's Direct. I ended up puchasing a brand new motor from these guys.

The motor: 167-0024-001 which is a CAT number that ASV uses to describe the Char-Lynn Motor which is a Compact Series 4000 motor for the ASV RC30 application; the 0024 is the VIN for the ASV RC30.

Anyway the cost for a brand new one is $550 with a lead time of 20 days.

The company number is: 877-358-4376 and I was dealing with Steve.

It's amazing that Terex would charge tripple this price!!! and even partsloader.com would be over double this price.
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  #15  
Old 02-07-2011, 08:59 PM
swanny swanny is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sshklov View Post
Earlier today I was talking to: Char-Lynn Motor's Direct. I ended up puchasing a brand new motor from these guys.

The motor: 167-0024-001 which is a CAT number that ASV uses to describe the Char-Lynn Motor which is a Compact Series 4000 motor for the ASV RC30 application; the 0024 is the VIN for the ASV RC30.

Anyway the cost for a brand new one is $550 with a lead time of 20 days.

The company number is: 877-358-4376 and I was dealing with Steve.

It's amazing that Terex would charge tripple this price!!! and even partsloader.com would be over double this price.
That's dirt cheap for new...thanks for the info!
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  #16  
Old 02-12-2011, 11:41 PM
greyim greyim is offline
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Location: Tas Australia
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RC30 drive sprocket

Mine eats shaft keys it's such a pain...
I put in a hardened key that lasted quite a bit longer but same result...
Wish they had a splined shaft !
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  #17  
Old 02-13-2011, 01:43 AM
greyim greyim is offline
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RC30 drive wheel ASV problem

In addition to the above great tips, this is my method for dismantling:-
Winch it on the truck if not already on (easier work height) motor running.
Assemble large stock of tools, best music mix (easy listening, low tempo
Drinks and food handy, rags; WD40 CRC spray all nuts.
Support the track apex to save having to take back rollers off (see pic)
Jack and chock the tracks bit off the ground one end (can use bucket) so rollers under sprocket are free and access underneath easier.
Free the sprkt from it's tensioning rod; remove the two rollers under it (circlips, cover, nut, lever off outside one and thump inner one.
Remove two 1/2" bolts holding outer wheel bearing.
Drop the drive wheel/ support assembly down.
If the sprkt is loose, switch on motor to retract brake piston (if LHS) and pull off the whole thing.
If not loose, unbolt outer bearing cover, lever bearing off, prepare for lots of levering spraying (into 1/4" hole) & thumping.
A guy told me the drive wheel centre has a double thread so you can insert a bolt (what size?) and wind it off
Other than that, very last resort, cut it off
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  #18  
Old 02-13-2011, 09:31 AM
swanny swanny is offline
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I've pulled the motors like you have...even without removing any of the wheels underneath the motors. It's easier, imo, if you are going to take that route to remove the bolts and washers that hold the rail to the axle pivot points and slide out the rail assembly 4" to give you more room behind the motor to access the hoses.

Regarding the shaft keys - do you spray loctite on the shaft before you install the squirrel cage? I've seen some with keys that were starting to distort, but none that have snapped.
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  #19  
Old 02-13-2011, 04:21 PM
greyim greyim is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Tas Australia
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That slide rail tip is the best ever, I will try that pretty soon. Only my LH rear axle is siezed, grease won't go in; I'll try the hammer drill on it might shake loose. Loctite I havent used, first timeI took the wheel off every thing was so jammed with it! But Ithink the problem has been once the drive wheel socket gets worn its slightly wobbly and so cuts up the keys like tin snips. I had an eng. shop make up & welded in another wheel insert but still same prob, tolerance must have been out tho ikt seemed perfect at the time. Also they checked in the motor, now the seal leaks.... Anyway, will prob get new parts this time and loctite it .
A colleague actually welded the wheel to the axle.... tho not rec'd ...likely to reck the seals. I am thinking of doing this while I wait for parts. What do people think?
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  #20  
Old 02-13-2011, 06:09 PM
greyim greyim is offline
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Swanny have you any instructions for swapping the drive motor shaft and fitting new seals? Thats next my job
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