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  #61  
Old 05-10-2011, 04:00 PM
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Z'mnypit Z'mnypit is offline
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Any info on these boogies yet? The ones you are testing
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  #62  
Old 06-03-2011, 02:33 PM
pwreisdorf pwreisdorf is offline
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Missing manual pages

Quote:
Originally Posted by greyim View Post
Thanks... have you noticed the service pdf omiits section 12.9-14 sprocket and drive motor removal
http://www.asvparts.com/Manufacturer...ice-Manual.pdf
I have the missing pages
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File Type: pdf ASV-RC 30 Sprocket Removal.pdf (1.76 MB, 61 views)
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  #63  
Old 06-03-2011, 02:38 PM
pwreisdorf pwreisdorf is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greyim View Post
In addition to the above great tips, this is my method for dismantling:-
Winch it on the truck if not already on (easier work height) motor running.
Assemble large stock of tools, best music mix (easy listening, low tempo
Drinks and food handy, rags; WD40 CRC spray all nuts.
Support the track apex to save having to take back rollers off (see pic)
Jack and chock the tracks bit off the ground one end (can use bucket) so rollers under sprocket are free and access underneath easier.
Free the sprkt from it's tensioning rod; remove the two rollers under it (circlips, cover, nut, lever off outside one and thump inner one.
Remove two 1/2" bolts holding outer wheel bearing.
Drop the drive wheel/ support assembly down.
If the sprkt is loose, switch on motor to retract brake piston (if LHS) and pull off the whole thing.
If not loose, unbolt outer bearing cover, lever bearing off, prepare for lots of levering spraying (into 1/4" hole) & thumping.
A guy told me the drive wheel centre has a double thread so you can insert a bolt (what size?) and wind it off
Other than that, very last resort, cut it off
I can't figure how to get the sprocket off the tapered motor shaft. The ASV p/n for the puller is 0304-461 but I don't know how it works. Any ideas?
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  #64  
Old 06-03-2011, 10:42 PM
greyim greyim is offline
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sprocket puller

Iwas told there'e a double thread, havent used the sprocket puller..
I use 2 bars behind between the large sprocket face and front of the drive motor.. two people, push real hard or a cold chisel and hammer
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  #65  
Old 06-04-2011, 08:41 AM
pwreisdorf pwreisdorf is offline
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Puller question

Quote:
Originally Posted by sshklov View Post
I've been digging into these drive motors quite a bit.

Here are some Eaton Char-Lynn numbers:

Motor Part number: 167-0024-001 $550.00

Seal Kit number: 61344-000 $26.65

Output Shaft 32mm or 1 inch Tappered with Key way $331.00

These are Char-Lynn part number not some silly overpriced ASV number

Still the price of the output shaft is ridiculous considering that really all you need to replace is the two roller bearings on the shaft. Trick is to get the retainer off so you can press off and on a new set of bearings.

Currently i'm trying to source these bearings and will make a tool to remove the retainer. normal precision roller bearings of this size should be like less than $20 bucks a piece.

As far as the key way being chewed up, you have to use the retainer loctite with the spray activator or the key and the keyway will get chewed up.

the proper loctite is loctite 680 (green bearing retainer).

the proper loctite activator is loctite 7471 primer T in an aresol.

you clean the shaft and the squirrel cage first then you apply the 7471 on the shaft and let it dry.

once dry you apply the green loctite 680 and torque it down quickly.

To remove the squirrel cage in the future you might have to use heat with the puller and the impact wrench.

Shane in Winnipeg Canada
How does the puller work. I can figure it out. ASV has a p/n 0304-461 for the puller. Did you buy one or make one?
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  #66  
Old 06-04-2011, 07:44 PM
greyim greyim is offline
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sprocket puller

thread in hub /sprocket is so a larger bolt can be inserted to force the hub off (but, didnt work for me)
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  #67  
Old 06-05-2011, 09:39 AM
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carlriv carlriv is offline
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The above sketch is correct. I did not use a special tool, just a bolt. However the bolt broke off on one side and we had to cut the entire hub off. We did not want to put a bolt down the shaft because we did not know what it would be pushing on... Looks like the "tool" is just a stepped bolt that pushes at the end of the shaft. USE HEAT and take it slow.
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  #68  
Old 06-06-2011, 12:34 PM
pwreisdorf pwreisdorf is offline
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I ended up proping up the track and removing the whole drive table with motor, sprocket assy intact. Now I have it in my shop with press (and AC) where I can work on it without crawling in the mess. Thanks for the information.
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  #69  
Old 06-07-2011, 11:26 AM
swanny swanny is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greyim View Post
Iwas told there'e a double thread, havent used the sprocket puller..
I use 2 bars behind between the large sprocket face and front of the drive motor.. two people, push real hard or a cold chisel and hammer

I use cold chisels in the same area - one high on one side, and one low on the other side and hit them alternatively one at a time until it breaks free.

Those hubs are usually rust welded on to the shafts if you live in humid climates like I do.
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  #70  
Old 06-08-2011, 05:06 PM
pwreisdorf pwreisdorf is offline
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Got it off easily with a puller I made and a little help from the two cold chisels. Thanks for the tip.
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