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  #81  
Old 11-06-2011, 04:50 PM
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jbrockmann jbrockmann is offline
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Trying to get my first sprocket squirrel cage off the drive motor shaft. Read everything and still stuck after 5 hours of trying. Finally got the bearing plate off after 2 hours of prying and pulling. I imagine if that was stuck on so incredibly tight I'm in deep.

Lots of heat has been applied. I'll reseal the motor after. Cold chisels have not budged the sprocket after a couple hours of heat, banging and prying. The puller tool is stripped in the sprocket and not unthreading. Just spins in the sprocket threads.

Anyone have any ideas? I'm willing to buy any new parts to replace the old ones, just want to get this thing apart. Very frustrating.
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  #82  
Old 11-06-2011, 08:29 PM
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stuvecorp stuvecorp is online now
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Is that squirrel cage on backwards? It just doesn't look right to me?

We have been having constant problems with the key breaking that holds the cage to the motor lately. I'm very frustrated with it.
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  #83  
Old 11-06-2011, 11:34 PM
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jbrockmann jbrockmann is offline
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Nope, not on backwards. Maybe the pic is too straight on, should've shot it at an angle to give some depth perception. The puller tool bolt head is sticking out of the middle (broke and stuck).

I bought bigger cold chisels, going to try them with some more banging and more heat tomorrow. The handy puller tool seems like a great idea, but needs to be more stout for really really stuck cages. Thinking of slicing off most of the cage and seeing if that gives me better access to pry and pound.

I ordered the special lock-tight to reseat the cage and key onto the shaft. Had to find a place on the internet because nobody local had it in stock. I'm guessing since you're a pro at this that you've been using the specified spray applicator and it's still not holding the key tight? I ordered extra keys just in case I ran into trouble with the old ones.

At least your cages come off to replace the keys!
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  #84  
Old 11-07-2011, 01:31 AM
greyim greyim is offline
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stuck drive wheel

I have used 2x a 6' pry bars one each side (two people).. pretty hard on things tho.
Like you my first was so stuck tight, I ended up cutting it off, but damaged the axle and eventually had to replace that too. Every other time it has been worn loose by the time I got to it :-0
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  #85  
Old 11-07-2011, 01:32 AM
greyim greyim is offline
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have you found the little hole, pour CRC WD40 in
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  #86  
Old 11-07-2011, 07:59 AM
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jbrockmann jbrockmann is offline
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I did see the little hole, on the bottom side for me, so I caught it after much fighting. I thought mabye it was a set screw, but it's only half full of something steel. I'll try putting penetrating fluid in there too.

6' pry bars is a ton of torque. I only have one 5' and a couple 3' bars. I'll try those with an extra pair of hands and see if it budges. What's the worst that can happen?? Just hope I don't end up in the ER somehow.

In case I end up really messing up the motor and everything, did anyone every find an affordable source for the later model Sauer drive motors? trackloaderparts.com is where I've ordered the regular parts but the motors are still expensive through them.
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  #87  
Old 11-07-2011, 05:28 PM
greyim greyim is offline
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When it comes off, please post the outcome :-)
Pressure opposite sides is best I found, one person with a bar, one with cold chisel, decent hammer (5 lb)
If you cut it off, maybe cut rim off first then you can see shaft clearly, cut along top of keyway (where the little hole is). That will remove most of the remaining key which is likely what is stopping you getting it off.
Or if your good with a drill, a line of 3/16 holes might leave the hub repairable
Depending whats wrong with the motor new seals might be all it needs?
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  #88  
Old 11-07-2011, 07:55 PM
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kgserv kgserv is offline
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I was wondering what kind of hours you guys have on your rc 30? Mine is an o1 -o2 with 1390 hrs original tracks. Ive put a fair amount of money into it and its paid off. But how long do you feel like these will run for? Im thinking of replacing the tracks this winter, buts thats a large investment. Just wonder if im on borrowed time or what.
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  #89  
Old 11-07-2011, 10:26 PM
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jbrockmann jbrockmann is offline
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Steps to removing very very very stuck sprocket

Thanks for all the pointers. We had success tonight! The following steps finally worked along with some tears and lots of prayer.

1. Bang for several hours with some heat and stipped puller. Think about crying.
2. Give up for the day and sleep on it.
3. Get real about it. Buy 2 porta power units thinking they will do the trick.
4. Try lots and lots of heat with the two porta power duck bills, one on either side. Keep banging and prying. If still stuck proceed.
5. Cut off outer sprocket ring to gain better leverage. (wear mask and buy several grinder cutoff wheels)
6. Lots and lots more heat (don't touch, almost red). Put two porta power duck bills on one side, 6' pry bar and pull like hell on the other side, have another guy bang on the sprocket with a 3-5 pound sledge. Look out because it shoots off at 90 mph when you don't expect it to!
7. Drink a few beers in celebration and re-think trying to replace the opposite side of the machine's cage.

I really thought for a while that I'd be buying a new motor. Hoping I didn't fry the seals because the parts guy said a qualified hydro shop are the only people that should be replacing motor seals. Said its not a job for a first timer.

In response to the life expectancy - I've seen some for sale with 3000 hours. This one has 800 hours, and needs both sides of the sprocket cages replaced from wear. But the tracks are in great shape and should last another 800 at least. Seems like engine stuff should last forever with good care and maintanence just like a car. Change the oil and keep her all lubed up.

Pic is rough, but the main sprocket hub minus the outer part that I cut off.
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  #90  
Old 11-07-2011, 11:25 PM
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stuvecorp stuvecorp is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgserv View Post
I was wondering what kind of hours you guys have on your rc 30? Mine is an o1 -o2 with 1390 hrs original tracks. Ive put a fair amount of money into it and its paid off. But how long do you feel like these will run for? Im thinking of replacing the tracks this winter, buts thats a large investment. Just wonder if im on borrowed time or what.
Ours is an '03 with about 1400 hours, the tracks are great other than one 'nub'. We have been having problems with the keyway, it has been splitting the key in half? On the third one in two weeks, got some key stock from Fastenal this time so will see how that goes. Ours is very cold blooded, it has been like that from the start. I like that it is paid off but wonder if I should have traded up a couple years ago? DigDeep was talking about a whole complete undercarriage, wonder what a whole new one would be for the 30?

Glad to hear you got it off!
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