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  #41  
Old 03-02-2011, 05:16 PM
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fl-landscapes fl-landscapes is offline
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Originally Posted by diamondlandscaping View Post
Green

So the St. Aug lawns you manage that have big CG infestations you are able to chemically repair w/out re-infestation??


there are always "re-infestations" unless using pre-m sometimes even using pre. What gave you the impression he treats and doesnt have to re-treat? Not busting chops I just dont see where he said that.
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  #42  
Old 03-02-2011, 06:18 PM
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I know he retreats just curious how effective he is when getting rid of a lot of CG patches and getting a desirable fill in.
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  #43  
Old 03-02-2011, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by diamondlandscaping View Post
I know he retreats just curious how effective he is when getting rid of a lot of CG patches and getting a desirable fill in.
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I think what his experience is, would be the same as anyones. The fill in would have a few factors to determine success or failure. First depending on how large an area and how thick the crab grass is. If it is late stage growth that has smothered a large area of the desirable turf, likely you would need to plug or sod the area to keep not only the cg but the spurge and any other oportunistic weeds that will fill in a large areas quicker than your desirable turf. The turf type of the desirable grass also would make a difference. Bermuda would fill in and out compete weeds far better than zoysia. So a similar size area of cg killed in a bermuda lawn may not need plugs or sod to out compete the weeds where the same size area in a zoysia lawn may need plugs or sod to fill in the area. Now thats warm season turf. Cool season would probably glyhosate the whole area and re-seed it in fall. All cases should have a cost benefit analysis. Sometimes it would be more expensive in materials and labor to try and supress weeds instead of biting the bullet and plugging or sodding. Michael put it well recently "the high cost of a low bid" or something like that. Remember cg produces millions of viable seeds and can stay viable in the soil for up to 15 years
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  #44  
Old 03-03-2011, 01:25 AM
greendoctor greendoctor is online now
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Any lawn that is on a chemical renovation protocol, is fertilized with up to 1 lb N, 1/2 lb K, micronutrients and P dependent on the results of a soil test. This is applied as a foliar/liquid up to once every 14 days. Irrigation: I have the keys to the controllers, etc. If the "yard boy", property owner, or "landscaper" thinks he is smarter than me concerning the adjustment and scheduling of the irrigation system, they can figure out how to reclaim the turf area themselves. In other words they are fired. I also will not touch a lawn that is not mowed at appropriate heights and with the proper machinery.

Now that the ground rules are established, then it is time to apply the suitable herbicide treatments. It is amazing how well something like Celsius or Image works when the lawn is maintained with the correct cultural practices. I do follow up applications 30 days after the initial treatment. Just because every single weed is not dead 21 days after spraying I do not call the treatment a failure. In a warm season renovation, I use non root pruning herbicides in the first 2 months. Simazine and Gallery do not cause excessive damage to grasses trying to send out stolons. When the turf is a little more established, around 3 months later, I will apply the medium rate of Dimension. I have seen gaps 1 ft across or larger covered up within 6 months provided the lawn stays on my fertilization program, the irrigation is maintained, and the remaining lawn is mowed correctly.

Many of you are thinking that it would be easier and cheaper to nuke the whole lawn and re sod or re plug.

Hybrid Bermuda $2.00-3.25/sq ft
St Augustine $2.50-3.00/sq ft.
Centipede up to $5.00/ sq ft.
Zoysia $3.25-5.00/sq ft.
Seashore Paspalum $1.00-3.25/ sq ft.

Those prices do not include transportation and labor to install sod or plugs cut from sod.

Common Bermuda can be seeded with a hydromulcher for around $400/acre. Problem with that is the existing weeds will grow with the new grass, creating more expense to control those weeds.

There is also no guarantee short of a Vapam or Basamid fumigation of the site concerning existing weeds. Fumigations are not allowed in residential areas.
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  #45  
Old 03-03-2011, 08:18 AM
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fl-landscapes fl-landscapes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greendoctor View Post
Any lawn that is on a chemical renovation protocol, is fertilized with up to 1 lb N, 1/2 lb K, micronutrients and P dependent on the results of a soil test. This is applied as a foliar/liquid up to once every 14 days. Irrigation: I have the keys to the controllers, etc. If the "yard boy", property owner, or "landscaper" thinks he is smarter than me concerning the adjustment and scheduling of the irrigation system, they can figure out how to reclaim the turf area themselves. In other words they are fired. I also will not touch a lawn that is not mowed at appropriate heights and with the proper machinery.

Now that the ground rules are established, then it is time to apply the suitable herbicide treatments. It is amazing how well something like Celsius or Image works when the lawn is maintained with the correct cultural practices. I do follow up applications 30 days after the initial treatment. Just because every single weed is not dead 21 days after spraying I do not call the treatment a failure. In a warm season renovation, I use non root pruning herbicides in the first 2 months. Simazine and Gallery do not cause excessive damage to grasses trying to send out stolons. When the turf is a little more established, around 3 months later, I will apply the medium rate of Dimension. I have seen gaps 1 ft across or larger covered up within 6 months provided the lawn stays on my fertilization program, the irrigation is maintained, and the remaining lawn is mowed correctly.

Many of you are thinking that it would be easier and cheaper to nuke the whole lawn and re sod or re plug.

Hybrid Bermuda $2.00-3.25/sq ft
St Augustine $2.50-3.00/sq ft.
Centipede up to $5.00/ sq ft.
Zoysia $3.25-5.00/sq ft.
Seashore Paspalum $1.00-3.25/ sq ft.

Those prices do not include transportation and labor to install sod or plugs cut from sod.

Common Bermuda can be seeded with a hydromulcher for around $400/acre. Problem with that is the existing weeds will grow with the new grass, creating more expense to control those weeds.

There is also no guarantee short of a Vapam or Basamid fumigation of the site concerning existing weeds. Fumigations are not allowed in residential areas.
Im moving to hawaii and starting a sod business....holy molly!!!
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  #46  
Old 03-03-2011, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by fl-landscapes View Post
Im moving to hawaii and starting a sod business....holy molly!!!
SO SOD SOUNDS SUPER IN SAMOA


Current sod prices here in Florida have drop big time with the economy. Patch jobs went anywhere from a $ 1.00 a Sq ft to $ 1.50 for small jobs, now maybe as low as $ 0.75 sq ft. Larger job total rip out and replace were going for $ 0.75 are now going as low as $0.50 a sq ft.

However I think a total Cost of Living comparison needs to me made here. I had a friend who is a Civil Engineer and moved to the The biggest Island to work on a military base of some kind. He moved back after about 5 years. Cost of living had him broke and his $ 200K house wasn't much more than a shack.
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  #47  
Old 03-03-2011, 09:56 AM
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fl-landscapes fl-landscapes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ric View Post
SO SOD SOUNDS SUPER IN SAMOA


Current sod prices here in Florida have drop big time with the economy. Patch jobs went anywhere from a $ 1.00 a Sq ft to $ 1.50 for small jobs, now maybe as low as $ 0.75 sq ft. Larger job total rip out and replace were going for $ 0.75 are now going as low as $0.50 a sq ft.

However I think a total Cost of Living comparison needs to me made here. I had a friend who is a Civil Engineer and moved to the The biggest Island to work on a military base of some kind. He moved back after about 5 years. Cost of living had him broke and his $ 200K house wasn't much more than a shack.
I know its all relevant, it was just my poor attempt at being funny.
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