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  #11  
Old 03-02-2011, 09:51 AM
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GreenI.A. GreenI.A. is offline
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If you pre-m first aeration will cause the active ingredient to prematurely break down. The issue I have with it is that pre-emergents and aeration both stress the root system. Both are great on there own but added together the equal alot of stress especially If there is no irrigation system. If an aeration is badly needed then go for it. But otherwise I would hold the aeration off till fall. Just my. 02
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  #12  
Old 03-02-2011, 04:32 PM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
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Originally Posted by GreenIndustryAssociates View Post
If you pre-m first aeration will cause the active ingredient to prematurely break down. The issue I have with it is that pre-emergents and aeration both stress the root system. Both are great on there own but added together the equal alot of stress especially If there is no irrigation system. If an aeration is badly needed then go for it. But otherwise I would hold the aeration off till fall. Just my. 02
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That makes sense...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #13  
Old 03-09-2011, 02:26 AM
aeration aeration is offline
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According to research sent to me from Purdue, aeration has little affect on the pre-m.
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  #14  
Old 03-09-2011, 10:09 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
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Originally Posted by aeration View Post
According to research sent to me from Purdue, aeration has little affect on the pre-m.
So does the Purdue literature, talk about how deeply it goes into the soil?
And
How it acts on top of thatch?
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #15  
Old 03-12-2011, 08:15 AM
elundgren elundgren is offline
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In my experience, I have found that keeping the lawn on a schedule is the key. Seed, starter fertilizer and lime in the Fall. Pre-emergent in the Spring. Periodic fertilizing in-between.

Where I get screwed up is when something has to occur off schedule.

I have a couple lawns where the Fall seeding did not take hold in many of the bare spots. Now that the Spring has arrived, I need to put down a pre-emergent but still have to deal with the numerous bare spots.

Any suggestions?
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  #16  
Old 03-12-2011, 09:54 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
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Originally Posted by elundgren View Post
In my experience, I have found that keeping the lawn on a schedule is the key. Seed, starter fertilizer and lime in the Fall. Pre-emergent in the Spring. Periodic fertilizing in-between.

Where I get screwed up is when something has to occur off schedule.

I have a couple lawns where the Fall seeding did not take hold in many of the bare spots. Now that the Spring has arrived, I need to put down a pre-emergent but still have to deal with the numerous bare spots.

Any suggestions?
Depends on how much time you got to get cool season grasses growing, before the CG would start up. Or play with the barespots after the pre-m and hope for th best...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #17  
Old 03-13-2011, 02:12 PM
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Exact Rototilling Exact Rototilling is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
So does the Purdue literature, talk about how deeply it goes into the soil?
And
How it acts on top of thatch?
http://www.agry.purdue.edu/turf/pubs/AY-8.pdf

This Purdue publication has basically zero mention of the effect of cores left on the lawn and how the soil microbes helping to breakdown thatch. There is mention of 2" - 3" plug depth but they also mention 20 - 40 holes per square foot. A double pass with a Plugr 800 series will get it to 16 plugs per square foot if there are no holes in holes. Ryan 28 is at 17 plugs per square foot on a double pass mathematically.

A double pass with many of the rolling tine units is still at 12 per square foot or less.
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  #18  
Old 03-13-2011, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Exact Rototilling View Post
http://www.agry.purdue.edu/turf/pubs/AY-8.pdf

This Purdue publication has basically zero mention of the effect of cores left on the lawn and how the soil microbes helping to breakdown thatch. There is mention of 2" - 3" plug depth but they also mention 20 - 40 holes per square foot. A double pass with a Plugr 800 series will get it to 16 plugs per square foot if there are no holes in holes. Ryan 28 is at 17 plugs per square foot on a double pass mathematically.

A double pass with many of the rolling tine units is still at 12 per square foot or less.
Say the holes were only 1" in diameter, at 40 per sq foot that would be the same as 10 plugs in a 6" x 6" area, or over 1/4 of the surcace being plugged. That would destroy the turf pulling that many plugs, you just cut up more than 1/4 of the root system. Maybe for an extreamly compacted area that you are going to seed from scratch, yes, but I can not see doing that to an existing turf that you are aerating and overseeding
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  #19  
Old 03-13-2011, 04:32 PM
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Agreed I think a double pass with a plugr 8xx or Ryan 28 is optimal. Can't be exceed with standard rolling time units unless a fourth pass is done.
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  #20  
Old 03-13-2011, 06:56 PM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Exact Rototilling View Post
http://www.agry.purdue.edu/turf/pubs/AY-8.pdf

This Purdue publication has basically zero mention of the effect of cores left on the lawn and how the soil microbes helping to breakdown thatch. ....
From the Purdue URL:

"...Too much thatch interferes with
water and air movement, reduces fertilizer and
pesticide response, and increases disease and insect
activity. Eventually, roots may start growing in the
thatch, and since thatch does not hold much water,
the turf then becomes very susceptible to cold, heat
and drought stresses."

This quote addresses half of my question, but not in a very definitive way...
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