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Old 03-16-2011, 02:40 AM
rjtlawncare rjtlawncare is offline
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Kawasaki fh451v repair w/pictures

Got a Kawasaki fh451v twin from guy who said that it had spark but backfires through carb. Long story short I got this engine because it's the same engine that is on my 36 exmark viking so if i need a part I could rob it form the old engine(I needed the recoil, air fitler clip). Now that I have it I want to tear it down and clean it up and see if I can get it going. I've done some research on what would be causing the backfire and what I came up with was that the intake manifold may be loose, or it might be the valves, or fuel mix.

What I've done so far: tearing it down and cleaning whatever looked dirty and this thing is dirty and gummed up. Once I got the shield off what did I find none other than the intake manifold nut where loose( one nut was almost all the way out you can kind of see it in the pic. LEFT SIDE). This thing is so gummed up that I've taken off the coils and cleaned them. Now since I found that the intake manifold nut where loose and tightened them I want to put this thing back together and fire it up.

QUESTIONS SO FAR:
1. HOW CAN I START THIS ENGINE I THINK IT CALLED BENCH TESTING IT. HOW DO YOU WIRE IT LIKE IT IS ON THE MOWER(THE ON/OFF KEY SWITCH)

2. I DON'T HAVE A MUFFLER----- DOES THIS MATTER WHEN TESTING?

3. When I checked the valve clearance the bottom rod I could get a reading of .006 and the top rod could not get a reading(there was no clearance(rod and rocker arm where togther tight), I could be doing something wrong and I'll do this procedure again tomorrow
I'll have new pictures of the cleaning tomorrow.
THANKS GUYS
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Old 03-16-2011, 10:16 AM
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dutch1 dutch1 is offline
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1. Power wash the engine thoroughly

2. Replace the intake manifold gaskets. If the intake manifold has been sitting there with the ability to vibrate, the gasket may be partially disintegrated or portions of it gone. This condition will allow the engine to suck air and run lean on that side.

3. Adjust the valves--.004-.006 on the intake and .005-.007 on the exhaust. If you have no valve lash on the intake, as you describe, this condition will allow backfiring through the carb. There should be several threads on this site that will give you information on procedures.

4. For bench starting you should have the engine secured to the bench and if it has the capability to start it will do so as it came off the mower. If the engine does start on the bench you will need some method of killing the engine. You can use a pair of plastic pliers to remove the ignition wires from the plugs or you can hook up a wire to the kill lead from the coils (at the wiring harness) that can be grounded to the engine.

5. If it were me, I would pull the flywheel and clean there as well. There is a breather cover partially covered by the flywheel that tends to leak oil as well due to overheating/age. I have seen all four of the retaining cap screws loose. Check the condition of the gasket and replace if necessary. Debris tends to build up inside the flywheel, above and between the magnets--blow out.

Just a few thoughts from an old fart that hasn't had his morning coffee.
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Old 03-16-2011, 12:04 PM
rjtlawncare rjtlawncare is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dutch1 View Post
1. Power wash the engine thoroughly

2. Replace the intake manifold gaskets. If the intake manifold has been sitting there with the ability to vibrate, the gasket may be partially disintegrated or portions of it gone. This condition will allow the engine to suck air and run lean on that side.

3. Adjust the valves--.004-.006 on the intake and .005-.007 on the exhaust. If you have no valve lash on the intake, as you describe, this condition will allow backfiring through the carb. There should be several threads on this site that will give you information on procedures.

4. For bench starting you should have the engine secured to the bench and if it has the capability to start it will do so as it came off the mower. If the engine does start on the bench you will need some method of killing the engine. You can use a pair of plastic pliers to remove the ignition wires from the plugs or you can hook up a wire to the kill lead from the coils (at the wiring harness) that can be grounded to the engine.

5. If it were me, I would pull the flywheel and clean there as well. There is a breather cover partially covered by the flywheel that tends to leak oil as well due to overheating/age. I have seen all four of the retaining cap screws loose. Check the condition of the gasket and replace if necessary. Debris tends to build up inside the flywheel, above and between the magnets--blow out.

Just a few thoughts from an old fart that hasn't had his morning coffee.
Thanks for the quick respond,

1. Now so I can understand the testing of these engines you DON'T NEED A ON/OFF SWITCH. So the two wires 1. that goes to the coils and 2. that goes under the flywheel can just daggle. I don't understand this if someone can explain????? How does the engine know that its ok to run---or----stop??

2. If someone can help with the flywheel remove, I have never done this before. I read one of Restrobs thread on this but I don't know the ins and outs-----How does the puller work?? Where does the puller hookup? Do they hookup on the bottom of the engine or top??? CAN YOU EXPLAIN HOW AND WHERE THE PULLERS LINE UP ON MY ENGINE FROM THE PICTURE??? ANY TRICKS WHEN DOING THIS REMOVAL/INSTALL AND IS IT DIFFICULT??? JUST THINKING OUT LOUD


3. Haven't put it back together but was just thinking--- How do you measure and set the space between the coils and the flywheel when reinstalling??
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Old 03-16-2011, 12:33 PM
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RickyDL77 RickyDL77 is offline
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u can use the wires from the engine to kill it. the black wire comming from the coils, just ground it to the engine to kill it. the Green wire has to be hooked up to the positive side of a battery and the negetive side should be attached to the engine to allow the carb's fuel shutoff switch to work if it has one.

Like Dutch said, clean that thing lol. and for the breather cover use some locktight on the bolts...kinda busy will reply more later.
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Old 03-16-2011, 02:04 PM
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dutch1 dutch1 is offline
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If the engine is completely disconnected from the mowing unit, the engine will run if the coils are not grounded--that is the purpose of the switch, to ground the coils. As Ricky indicates, to stop the engine, ground the wire going to the coils to a convenient spot on the engine.

Others will recommend the use of a puller to remove the flywheel. The crankshaft/flywheel always has some vertical endplay. Start by removing the flywheel nut, cup, screen, and fan. Replace the flywheel nut flush with the end of the crank shaft. Use a prybar to carefully lift the flywheel and crankshaft to its upper limit. At this point, I place a small square piece of brass bar stock over the end of the crankshaft/nut. I then use a pneumatic air hammer on the brass to separate the crankshaft and flywheel. I also have used a large brass hammer to give the flywheelnut a good whack. I know Restro and others as well, do not approve of the use of the "big hammer technique" due to the possibility of dislodging magnets from the inside of the flywheel. The key is to avoid inadvertantly striking the flywheel directly. I have used this method for years without the magnet problem occuring although it would be erroneous for me to say it won't/can't happen--it has, at least Restro has experienced the problem.

Running with out a muffler should not be a problem as long as it is not for an extended period of time at higher rpms.
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Old 03-16-2011, 10:19 PM
rjtlawncare rjtlawncare is offline
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Hey guys long day but got her cleaned. I was able to get a wrench in between the magneto and tighten the 4 retainer screws( they were a little loose but not bad), so I didn't take off the flywheel. Cleaned the carb out. Tomorrow the valve adjustment. Just so I understand this---you loosen the nut---place a feeler gauge in between the rocker arm and rod---screw the set screw clockwise if loose and counter clockwise if tight---tighten nut. Also my understanding of TDC is when the one valve is completely down it's travel?????? Can someone explain this process.
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Old 03-17-2011, 12:03 AM
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RickyDL77 RickyDL77 is offline
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not tdc, just the way to adjust the valves...in the picture you have the feeler gauge on the exhaust valve so the intake valve should be all the way open to be sure of the correct gap. by "open" i mean all the way pressed down by the rocker arm.

First loosen the allen set screw and the nut will move freely, if you loosen the nut first theres a chance of damaging the threads. then adjust using the nut and reset the set screw and recheck gap...after done i ussually turn the engine over a few times by hand to make sure everything is working properly. good job on the cleaning btw

1 more day till mini vacation yay lol
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Helping to run:

28 Maintenance Crews, 3 Landscaping Crews, 3 Irigation Crews, 6 Turf Crews, 3 Maintenance Enhancment Crews, 2 Hardscapes Crews

70 Wright Stander 52"
12 Wright Stander 36"
9 Wright ZK 61"
18 Encore Rage 52" Stand On Mower
400+ pieces of RedMax Equipment
150+ pieces of Kawasaki Power Equipment
350+ pieces of Husqvarna Handheld Equipment
.....A constant barrage of broken machines!!

Last edited by RickyDL77; 03-17-2011 at 12:12 AM. Reason: half asleep
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Old 03-22-2011, 01:34 AM
rjtlawncare rjtlawncare is offline
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Just wanted to thank everyone for helping me with this project. The info was so spot on that you guys rock!!! Thanks again. Well for the engine I got it back together and the thing runs great. It fired right up with no back fire, idled down great and responded when throttled up. Its not even that loud( doesn't have a muffler). IF ANYONE HAS A USED ONE LET ME KNOW??? But all in all I think tickering with mowers is going to be a great hobby.
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Old 03-22-2011, 02:07 AM
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I MOW ALONE I MOW ALONE is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjtlawncare View Post
Just wanted to thank everyone for helping me with this project. The info was so spot on that you guys rock!!! Thanks again. Well for the engine I got it back together and the thing runs great. It fired right up with no back fire, idled down great and responded when throttled up. Its not even that loud( doesn't have a muffler). IF ANYONE HAS A USED ONE LET ME KNOW??? But all in all I think tickering with mowers is going to be a great hobby.

you need just muffler or muffler with header pipe?
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Old 03-23-2011, 02:34 AM
rjtlawncare rjtlawncare is offline
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I need the whole muffler, from where it connects to the heads all the way out. ASLO NOW THAT THE THING IS PURRRRRING I ALSO NEED A FRAME TO PUT THIS THING ON. WOULD LOVE TO HAVE A 48. Thanks RJ

Last edited by rjtlawncare; 03-23-2011 at 02:43 AM.
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