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  #41  
Old 03-26-2011, 11:18 PM
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Southern Pride Southern Pride is offline
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Originally Posted by 93Chevy View Post
To go in reverse, you just grip the controls tighter from neutral and the mower will go in reverse. The reverse is powerful...I mean, you get about 2 mph and has the same power as forward...just slower. And you can do a zero turn.
Okay awesome. See that's a huge revolution from say, my Metro, where you can't get to the end of a pass and just back up turn and go again. I have to make 2 or 3 passes around the whole fence line so when I get to the end of a pass I can make a wiiidee turn and get back onto the next stripe. Makes striping smaller areas virtually impossible. This the main reason I want your mower! Good news though.
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  #42  
Old 03-27-2011, 01:14 AM
zak406 zak406 is offline
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Okay awesome. See that's a huge revolution from say, my Metro, where you can't get to the end of a pass and just back up turn and go again. I have to make 2 or 3 passes around the whole fence line so when I get to the end of a pass I can make a wiiidee turn and get back onto the next stripe. Makes striping smaller areas virtually impossible. This the main reason I want your mower! Good news though.
hey sorry it took so long for me to responde I was at hockey, any way about the controls. Reverse is powerful, its not fast but its powerful. I could back it up a hill once again it would not be the fastest but your not going to "stop" half way up it due to lack of power.... As for reverse just pull the ecs controls back past neutral. Doing three point turns seems to be preety easy, I have been using the velke it came with so that makes it a bit hard. HOwever when I dont use the velke its easy. I have been trying to do straight up zero turns (im learnign with these controls) and im having a bit of trouble but im sure with more practice I will be fine... The best way I can describe the controls is, its like a walker mower you got your "cruise control" and then to slow down and reverse you just pull back on your controls (or sticks if your running a walker)... The only zero turn I have operated extensivly was a walker, I have never been good on traditional mid mounts due to the fact I have never owned nor worked for a company who used them. Overall I wanted a zero turn a walker to be exact but, with me going back to school the finances just are not there. The reason I bought this was for 2 reasons, a. the floating deck, I have used a metro before and I could not stand the scalping caused by a fixed deck. B. the hydros, I used the same metro and it beat the **** out of me I dont want to sound like a pussy but I dont want to wrestle a mower. Overall I ran the tt a bit more today and I could not be happier, im looking forward to using it in real conditions with grown grass lol... Any other questions feel free to ask, btw if you want any more pics just ask I will get them for you!
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  #43  
Old 03-27-2011, 04:29 PM
zak406 zak406 is offline
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hey guys, I got bored today and cut my neighbors back yard he unfotunally passed away and me and my brother have been cutting it for a few years. Anyways here are a few pics the striping in person is awesome, especially compared to what we were using before.... Southern pride I can officially report that k turns are so much easier when not using the velke. The back yard took me a quarter of the time it used to. The only problem I am having and it has nothing to do wiht the mower, is the bagger any time I go over a slope it digs into the turf. Now I have yet to adjust the deck, but I think it is lower than I usually cut. So when I do raise it, it may solve that. Once again though the grass has not started growing so its going to be hard to experiment witht that, any suggestions?
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  #44  
Old 03-27-2011, 06:08 PM
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93Chevy 93Chevy is online now
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First, turning with a sulky, it shouldn't take you any more time than without a sulkey, but if you're not used to one, it'll take a few times to get it down fast.

As far as the bagging plate digging in, you'll run into that. Raising the deck helps to an extent, but it'll still happen. Just one of the downfalls of that particular bagging system.

And you don't seem to be cutting too low for this time of year. You'll want to raise the deck with thick spring growth, then I always lower the deck when the grass slows down in August, then again doing leaves in October/November.
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  #45  
Old 03-27-2011, 06:38 PM
zak406 zak406 is offline
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Originally Posted by 93Chevy View Post
First, turning with a sulky, it shouldn't take you any more time than without a sulkey, but if you're not used to one, it'll take a few times to get it down fast.

As far as the bagging plate digging in, you'll run into that. Raising the deck helps to an extent, but it'll still happen. Just one of the downfalls of that particular bagging system.

And you don't seem to be cutting too low for this time of year. You'll want to raise the deck with thick spring growth, then I always lower the deck when the grass slows down in August, then again doing leaves in October/November.
Thanks for the advice Tim, like I said were I used to work we used a 48 and a 74 inch walker and a toro commercial 21. So I have never had to use a sulky, but as of now I got the controls down. Do you have any advice on cutting down on scalping? The problem im having (once again im sure with more practice it will be solved) is on certain parts of the lawn were your kind of on a hill and then it "flatens out" the deck seems to "dig in" and scalp. Any advice? btw if you want I can get you a picture of what im talking about if you dont understand what im saying!
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  #46  
Old 03-27-2011, 07:12 PM
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Jpeg lawn maintenance Jpeg lawn maintenance is offline
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In the situation you are describing. You need to raise the deck a bit and learn the roll of the land. Any deck will scalp if you cut the wrong way on a certain slope or angle. Just learn the property you are mowing and you will have success in the future ! Good luck to you.
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  #47  
Old 03-27-2011, 07:15 PM
zak406 zak406 is offline
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Originally Posted by Jpeg lawn maintenance View Post
In the situation you are describing. You need to raise the deck a bit and learn the roll of the land. Any deck will scalp if you cut the wrong way on a certain slope or angle. Just learn the property you are mowing and you will have success in the future ! Good luck to you.
Thanks bud, once again I have never used a walk behind before (extensivly I rented a metro once) but its definatly a learning curve even over a walker... Good luck this season jpeg
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  #48  
Old 03-27-2011, 07:19 PM
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Jpeg lawn maintenance Jpeg lawn maintenance is offline
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Originally Posted by zak406 View Post
Thanks bud, once again I have never used a walk behind before (extensivly I rented a metro once) but its definatly a learning curve even over a walker... Good luck this season jpeg
Ya I was not getting on you about it just offering some advice because I have a turf tracer! I can see where your pins are on your deck possibly a little to low. Raise them up one and you willbe set!
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  #49  
Old 03-27-2011, 07:40 PM
zak406 zak406 is offline
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Originally Posted by Jpeg lawn maintenance View Post
Ya I was not getting on you about it just offering some advice because I have a turf tracer! I can see where your pins are on your deck possibly a little to low. Raise them up one and you willbe set!
I know I took no offense im looking for advice trust me!! I want my quality to be were it was before! Jpeg I posted a couple pictures of the issue I had is there any way you can offer some advice on how you would go over the lawn to insure I no longer have this issue?? I went around the perimeter once to establish a area to turn and this is when this occured! btw I did raise my pegs up one in these pictures when I cut!
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  #50  
Old 03-27-2011, 07:56 PM
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Jpeg lawn maintenance Jpeg lawn maintenance is offline
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Well Everyone has a different way of mowing. But here is my suggestion now that you have raised your pegs cut the yard as normal except for one thing cut the yard fully and then go and do your perimeter pass around everything. This will take away all of your tire tracks. The scalping issue you have there is most likely because the deck was to low and the weight of the mower was to the left. Now that it is raised you should be ok. Normally you want ot cut low this time of year your right about that I personally do not go below 2.75 3inch and will go as high as 4 in the spring. Hope this helps.
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