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Old 03-12-2011, 05:12 PM
dotbowels dotbowels is offline
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Need Advice on Replacing My Retaining Wall

I have had 3 different companies tell me they would do it 3 different ways. All 3 have suggested a 95 pound landscaping rock like I see on other walls around town. They recommend different types of material to put under it and how far below the surface the first footing row should be. Some say a base of peat rock, some say broken concrete. Some say geogrid is needing others say no. Some say use mason's adhesive between the rocks, others say not necessary.

I will check all 3 out with the Better Business Bureau.

Any advice anyone can give me from the footings on up as well as the type of blocks to use would be appreciated. There is a gutter that will have PVC or something like it running underground out the full 30 feet to get water away from the foundation.

The current wall is about 36 feet long and starts at about 7' high, at the highest point, 10 feet down the wall it is at 5 foot high.

Any advice anyone can give me on what the best retaining wall should be would be appreciated. I want a level wall that will last a long time.

apologize in advance if I shouldn't be posting here but I am desperate. If there is another site that would be more appropriate for this type of post I am open to suggestions. Thanks Dorothy
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  #2  
Old 03-12-2011, 05:20 PM
nepatsfan nepatsfan is offline
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how bout some pictures and a location
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  #3  
Old 03-12-2011, 05:41 PM
dotbowels dotbowels is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nepatsfan View Post
still getting a bathroom
Guaranteed this link is correct

https://picasaweb.google.com/dotbowe...eat=directlink
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Old 03-12-2011, 05:49 PM
nepatsfan nepatsfan is offline
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Around me you would need to pull a permit for the wall and it would need to be engineered because it is over 4 feet. The base would be 3/4 minus and I guarantee they would require geo grid.
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Old 03-13-2011, 11:14 AM
Murphy's Law Murphy's Law is offline
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There are many ways to build a wall. 99% of towns/cities require permits on walls over 4ft. From there you will need stamped engineered drawings. He will definitely include geogrid. We can go into all the technical information here for you but your best bet is to start at the town which will lead you to an engineer. Insist 110% that your contractor build the wall EXACTLY how the engineers plans state and your wall will last many many years. Take a lot of pictures before, during and after construction.
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Old 03-13-2011, 11:41 AM
FLCthes4:11-12 FLCthes4:11-12 is offline
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Definately need geo-grid, 1 full block below grade, and check with local codes. The 95 lb blocks will be fine. We have alot of walls like that here in Georgia coming off the foundation like that. Make sure they have taken drainage into account meaning soc. pipe and gravel backfill and filter fabric.
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  #7  
Old 03-13-2011, 01:42 PM
dotbowels dotbowels is offline
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Originally Posted by Murphy's Law View Post
There are many ways to build a wall. 99% of towns/cities require permits on walls over 4ft. From there you will need stamped engineered drawings. He will definitely include geogrid. We can go into all the technical information here for you but your best bet is to start at the town which will lead you to an engineer. Insist 110% that your contractor build the wall EXACTLY how the engineers plans state and your wall will last many many years. Take a lot of pictures before, during and after construction.
Looks like I will eliminate bid 1. He said he doesn't need engineer or permit on a small job like this. He said that would just drive the price of the wall up. I said it isn't small to me & I want it to last. I am waiting for Bid 2 & Bid 3
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Old 03-13-2011, 04:14 PM
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DVS Hardscaper DVS Hardscaper is offline
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No Pics needed for the basic info, but thanks for posting them.

1. Grid IS needed. The contractor that told you no grid - take his contact info and destroy it. And don't answer when he does a follow up call, which he will do a follow up call.

2. The base course block. For every 1' of wall - 1" is buried below grade. If it's a very steep incline, sometimes an engineer will bury MORE.

3. Your wall needs to sit on an aggregate base. This use of old concrete is a load of baloney.

4. Your wall needs engineered by a segmental retaining wall engineer. This will cost around $1200 right off the bat.

5. The BBB is not worth contacting. You need to contact whoever regulates your states dept of licensing and check their contractor licensing status.

6. Your wall engineer will be able to refer a couple competent contractors.



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Last edited by DVS Hardscaper; 03-13-2011 at 04:19 PM.
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Old 03-13-2011, 04:48 PM
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Bru75 Bru75 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dotbowels View Post
Looks like I will eliminate bid 1. He said he doesn't need engineer or permit on a small job like this. He said that would just drive the price of the wall up. I said it isn't small to me & I want it to last. I am waiting for Bid 2 & Bid 3
Good decision. A professional will not try to talk you out of a permit if it is needed.
Also, whoever you get to do this should get the permit, not ask you to do it.
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  #10  
Old 03-13-2011, 05:07 PM
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DVS Hardscaper DVS Hardscaper is offline
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Speaking of permits, the best thing you can do is call your county dept of permits and inspections and ask if a permit is infact required. I'm sure it is, but it's best for you to find out on your own.

You want to eliminate:

A) anyone that said grid is NOT required

B) anyone that said no permit is required

C) anyone that does not have a contractors license , presuming your state requires this


Ask for references. The references YOU WANT are of jobs that are AT LEAST 3 yrs old. Looking at a job just done 1 yr ago will not tell you a thing. You wanna see jobs with longevity.

We build alotta walls for home owners. These walls are to be taken very seriously, and not to be taken lightly.


Www.outdoorfinishes.com


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