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  #11  
Old 04-11-2011, 05:05 PM
ICT Bill ICT Bill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
Could I also sow CG 3 weeks b4 and 3 weeks after?

(A root inhibitor pre-m lasts for 90 days, and kills every seed that germinates)...

What is the system that makes CGM special?
it doesn't last 90 days more like 6 weeks that is why timing is so critical with CGM, if you are going after CG it should be applied as the soil temp is rising from 60 to 65
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  #12  
Old 04-11-2011, 10:33 PM
Dr.NewEarth Dr.NewEarth is offline
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Crabgrass simply says that, the soil is low in calcium and that it cannot support decay starting with actinomycetes molds.

It is usually possible to adjust the system in a year or two, putting a little calcium lime and sulphur or gypsum on the soil in order to restructure the pH.

As this is accomplished, most of the infestation dissipates, virtually rotting away.

Usually application can be computed on the basis of 1500 pounds of high calcium lime per acre, 30-40 pounds of processed and active sulfur per acre. If ammonium sulfate is used, a little more calcium is required.

so, I would check your pH and raise or lower it accordingly so that you get as close to
a neutral aka 7 on the pH scale.

You can get a pH kit at the H.D. I just picked up one in the spa department.
I think it was 15 dollars for a couple dozen tests.

A basic soil test kit there is about twenty dollars. It will give you the macro nutrients levels only.

Last edited by Dr.NewEarth; 04-11-2011 at 10:35 PM. Reason: too many vowels
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  #13  
Old 04-11-2011, 10:56 PM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.NewEarth View Post
Crabgrass simply says that, the soil is low in calcium
Crabgrass will grow fine in soils with high Ca. Don't assume anything here! Using these types of plant indicators merely tells you what might be occurring, and that you need to get a soil test.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.NewEarth View Post
Usually application can be computed on the basis of 1500 pounds of high calcium lime per acre, 30-40 pounds of processed and active sulfur per acre. If ammonium sulfate is used, a little more calcium is required.
You need a lab test to calculate a liming requirement. In short .... get a lab test.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.NewEarth View Post
so, I would check your pH and raise or lower it accordingly so that you get as close to a neutral aka 7 on the pH scale.
You don't need a neutral pH to grow turf. Anything in the range of ~ 5.0 - 8.4 will generally work for most turf ... where 6-7 is optimum.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.NewEarth View Post
A basic soil test kit there is about twenty dollars. It will give you the macro nutrients levels only.
Those kits are very inaccurate. Send an appropriate composite sample to a good lab.

Last edited by Kiril; 04-11-2011 at 11:06 PM.
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  #14  
Old 04-11-2011, 11:22 PM
Dr.NewEarth Dr.NewEarth is offline
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The organic method I recommended has worked fine for me.

Correct the pH and many of your lawn and garden problems will go away

The point was to get rid of the crab grass. What I suggested requires an "optimum pH."

The HD tests are a cost saving example.
That information can be used by other people too.

You do not always require an expensive lab test.

A lab test will typically cost you over a hundred dollars. In Vancouver they are $120 plus 12% tax.

I will not say any-thing else. Thanks and good luck with your crab grass problem.
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  #15  
Old 04-11-2011, 11:29 PM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.NewEarth View Post
The organic method I recommended has worked fine for me.

Correct the pH and many of your lawn and garden problems will go away

The point was to get rid of the crab grass. What I suggested requires an "optimum pH."
No offense, but I see crabgrass in soils that are hovering around neutral and are high in Ca. Don't play games with your soil, especially Ca .... get a lab test. In the states, you can get a soil lab tested (basic test) from $18-40.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.NewEarth View Post
You do not always require an expensive lab test.
You do if you want actionable information .... unless you have lab grade equipment at your disposal.

Last edited by Kiril; 04-11-2011 at 11:35 PM.
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  #16  
Old 04-12-2011, 07:21 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ICT Bill View Post
it doesn't last 90 days more like 6 weeks that is why timing is so critical with CGM, if you are going after CG it should be applied as the soil temp is rising from 60 to 65
Thanks for indicating that timing is essential for CG application...

Here the snow is finally gone and we hit 70 degrees on Sunday, but rain/snow mix for later this week... The squirt and ferts will soon be out for !!! CG Prevention !!! in a few more days for CG that couldn't possibly germinate b4 Memorial Day... and likely closer to July 4th...

So I vote for your method of CG control w/CGM...
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  #17  
Old 04-18-2011, 07:36 PM
1506cmo18 1506cmo18 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ICT Bill View Post
for KBG 3 weeks before or 3 weeks after seeding
What does KBG stand for?

The snow is just melted and I'm looking for a good product to spread on my lawns that need nutrients and a weed protection. Is corn glutten meal a good option?

I'm also looking at spraying weeds with a vinegar solution, picking them out then adding a new compost material and seed.

With the statement above, after spreading CGM i should wait 3 weeks to seed?
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  #18  
Old 04-18-2011, 08:11 PM
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JFGauvreau JFGauvreau is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1506cmo18 View Post
What does KBG stand for?

The snow is just melted and I'm looking for a good product to spread on my lawns that need nutrients and a weed protection. Is corn glutten meal a good option?

I'm also looking at spraying weeds with a vinegar solution, picking them out then adding a new compost material and seed.

With the statement above, after spreading CGM i should wait 3 weeks to seed?
Kentucky Blue Grass.

Watch out when you spray vinegar on your weeds, since it will also kill the grass.
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  #19  
Old 04-18-2011, 08:16 PM
1506cmo18 1506cmo18 is offline
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I'm also in Canada, how did you make out spreading CGM?

Do you still use it for nutrients?
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  #20  
Old 04-18-2011, 08:58 PM
1506cmo18 1506cmo18 is offline
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After the vinegar is sprayed, do you guys remove the weeds and reseed?
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