Register free!


Reply
 
Thread Tools   Display Modes
  #11  
Old 04-17-2011, 12:41 PM
Kiril Kiril is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: District 9 CA
Posts: 18,316
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teach123 View Post
Green Industry: The city charges $1000 bucks for a new meter. I wouldn't be using any more water with an irrigation system...actually quite a bit less. So, I think that may be money I don't need to spend. However, I am intrigued by your comment of running a system off of the existing spigot. And yes, there is a little door in the wall that leads to the water supply, however, each company that has given an estimate said they would need much more access than that. I am getting another estimate tomorrow afternoon from a very reputable company. What questions should I ask? Especially about using the existing spigot.
You don't use the spigot, but rather you tee into the feed to the spigot. If you do this, you should choose one that is the closest to the water meter with a pipe size no less than 3/4". A 1/2" feed will increase your zone count considerably.

There are a lot of questions you should/could ask, but you need to do your homework first. A good company will first delineate the sites current and potential hydrozones then design the irrigation system around that. Beyond the critical factors involving design and proper hydrozoning, material quality and a highly flexible (smart) controller are also key factors.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 04-17-2011, 01:14 PM
GreenI.A.'s Avatar
GreenI.A. GreenI.A. is offline
LawnSite Silver Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: North East
Posts: 2,097
Exactly what Kiril said. You are not simply screwing onto the spicket, but using the pipe that exits the spicket as your water source to connect your baclflow to. You would use a tee so that you wouldn't loose access to the spicket. I have seen systems which tie directly into the spicket but that is way to restricktive, trying to design a system with that method would cost much more in materials as you would need many more zones, and posibly more smaller heads at closer intervuls.

If you really want to save money in the long run a good commercial controler is a must with a reain sensor. This way you aren't watering if it just rained yesterday. All of my systems include a rain sensor and I strongly encourage all of my customers to upgrade to a full weather station as that will give them the best control. The biggest thing is get a company known for irrigation, they will test water flow, pressure, and design the most efficient system available; and not a fly-by-night pert time guy who does the same basic design for every lawn.

In your original post, you said the quotes ranged froom 1500-5000. I am willing to bet that th einstaller for the 1500 system would not save you an ounce of water and would over water many areas while leaving others dry.
__________________
Why do people not respect us as they do other tradesmen? Because every Tom, Dick, and Harry doesn't think he can be a plumber or electrician!
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 04-17-2011, 02:46 PM
RigglePLC's Avatar
RigglePLC RigglePLC is online now
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Grand Rapids MI
Posts: 9,510
Teach,
this is a job for a battery-operated system; fine for small lawns. Use hose. 4 double AA batteries.
http://melnor.com/aquatimers/3100.html

They cost about $49 to $69 at Home Depot. Or Ace Hdwe. Get spike-base sprinkler heads and the special spikes, hide the heads in the bushes. Later, if you decide to bury the heads and hose--you don't have to buy new sprinkler heads.

With a little careful planning you can cover the front with one half-circle head. And perhaps you can cover the back with two half circle heads. For big areas, one sprinkler head can cover an 80 foot circle, (naturally you need good pressure and you need 20 percent overlap).

A professional system is required by law to have a permanent backflow preventer. ($500).
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 04-17-2011, 03:31 PM
Kiril Kiril is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: District 9 CA
Posts: 18,316
Quote:
Originally Posted by RigglePLC View Post
Teach,
this is a job for a battery-operated system; fine for small lawns. Use hose. 4 double AA batteries.
http://melnor.com/aquatimers/3100.html

They cost about $49 to $69 at Home Depot. Or Ace Hdwe. Get spike-base sprinkler heads and the special spikes, hide the heads in the bushes. Later, if you decide to bury the heads and hose--you don't have to buy new sprinkler heads.

With a little careful planning you can cover the front with one half-circle head. And perhaps you can cover the back with two half circle heads. For big areas, one sprinkler head can cover an 80 foot circle, (naturally you need good pressure and you need 20 percent overlap).

A professional system is required by law to have a permanent backflow preventer. ($500).
No offense Riggle, but that melnor junk just barely qualifies for a very temporary setup, let alone a "permanent" one.

If irrigation is a requirement in the OP's area, then the only realistic solution is a proper irrigation system. A properly designed and managed irrigation system will make or break the landscape. It is the #1 most important part of any landscape which relies on supplemental water. If you don't want to install a real irrigation system, then plant regionally appropriate landscapes that don't require supplemental water .... which is what people should be doing anyway.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 04-17-2011, 03:55 PM
platinum platinum is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Grove City, Ohio
Posts: 169
You can get away with a couple of the orbit or melnor timers, a bunch of hoses and standard sprinkler heads. I used that for 2+ years without any reliability problems. Itís a pretty ghetto way of doing things but it does work for a small setup. If youíre just trying to get by until you have the funds to do it correctly it will work fine.

Youíre not going to get much help on here with a setup like that so message me if you have any questions. Even though I did this for a couple years, I did put a real system in because of some of the issues that come along with a timer system. Below are some of them;
  • Batteries dying
  • Hoses rotting (in buried in the ground which I had)
  • Inconsistent water coverage
  • High water bills. Because of the challenges with zoning you end up watering more then you need in most spots to compensate for some of the dry spots. You also waste a lot of water on hardscapes such as driveways, street, etc.. My water bill was almost cut in half when I went to a real system.
__________________
-platinum
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 04-17-2011, 04:13 PM
AI Inc's Avatar
AI Inc AI Inc is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern NH
Posts: 21,806
Quote:
Originally Posted by platinum View Post
My water bill was almost cut in half when I went to a real system.[/LIST]
And there is your answer.
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 04-17-2011, 04:53 PM
Teach123 Teach123 is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Springfield, Illinois
Posts: 155
Thanks everyone for your input. I have the funds to get a quality system installed by reputable companies. It's just a little more "tearing up" in my basement than I thought. From all the responses, it looks like a permanent system would save money in the long run. Simply getting even coverage in a efficient manner is enough for me. Thanks to you guys, I am now armed with some potential questions to ask. Thanks again!!
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 04-18-2011, 12:49 PM
brawdyre brawdyre is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: OKC
Posts: 89
Here is a possible solution. The company apparently does not make them anymore but a smart guy could buy the parts and put one together. It sanother hose based system but with pro parts. Right now I am using the ghetto orbits timers and hoses but it works for me. Here is a pic of what is called a watermonster.
Attached Images
     
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 04-18-2011, 01:30 PM
Kiril Kiril is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: District 9 CA
Posts: 18,316
If you see a green valve, it is anything but pro.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 04-18-2011, 07:17 PM
RigglePLC's Avatar
RigglePLC RigglePLC is online now
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Grand Rapids MI
Posts: 9,510
Hunter and Rainbird are good brands. Be sure to get the rain sensor. Be sure they guarantee both the labor and parts. The manufacturer usually warrants the clock, heads, and valves,(one year is a minimum, ask for 3 to 5 years).
The cheaper heads sometimes do not retract. They sometimes stop rotating after a year or two. Be sure the coverage overlaps correctly. Ask that the sunniest and hot areas get a little more water than shade areas. Be sure it will still work correctly if city water pressure drops ten percent during hot days. Other guys can advise about other shortcuts you don't want.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump





Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©1998 - 2012, LawnSite.comô - Moose River Media
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:09 PM.

Page generated in 0.10723 seconds with 8 queries