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  #21  
Old 07-06-2008, 06:53 PM
gordym gordym is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: midwest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccecilm View Post
gordym,

Some thoughts:

1. There may be a poor electrical wire connection between forward/reverse solenoids and ground causing both actuators to work against each other.

2. Dirt and/or lack of lubrication at steering pedal pivot points.

3. Weakened steering pedal return springs.
Well, I replaced both steering switches and springs.
I made sure to mark the switch position with a Sharpie to make sure they were in the same place when I put it back together.
I fired it up and I turned the steering wheel to the right and the SST shot in the left direction!!!!!

Reverse is working fine........ forward is now worse than before.
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  #22  
Old 07-06-2008, 07:08 PM
gordym gordym is offline
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Location: midwest
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Well, I replaced both steering switches and springs.
I made sure to mark the switch position with a Sharpie to make sure they were in the same place when I put it back together.
I fired it up and I turned the steering wheel to the right and the SST shot in the left direction!!!!!
I tried adjusting the switches in both directions and it seemed a little better but occasionally when I start from a dead stop and turn the wheel
to eiter the left or the right, it goes the opposite direction. There is no way I could have wired it wrong due to wire lengths and I made a drawing of connections prior to disconnecting. It is intermittent and it still takes a while in the forward direction to get the steering to work at all.
Revers is still fine though................

Reverse is working fine........ forward is now worse than before.

I'll take a look at the vacuume lines next but the SST works fine in reverse.
I feel dumb as a tree stump.

Sorry for the repost but the site wouldn't allow changes after 10 mins.
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  #23  
Old 07-07-2008, 05:32 AM
jeffwoehrle jeffwoehrle is offline
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Location: Mount Pocono, PA
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"...it still takes a while in the forward direction to get the steering to work at all."

I think that may be a clue. Vacuum line issue seems like a fair bet.

On the bright side, you will be an expert by the time you work through this!

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  #24  
Old 07-07-2008, 08:22 AM
ccecilm ccecilm is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Clinton, OK
Posts: 42
New switches and springs may require re-adjusting rather than just marking where old switches were. Make sure you have the propel switches set to the proper clearance.

Microswitch/Propel Switch Adjustment (from the tech manual):

1. Park machine safely with park brake locked. See “Park
Machine Safely” on page 3.

2. Locate the proper switch through the sight windows (A)
in the side frame. The right wheel may require removal from
the machine.

3. If adjusting the top switch, fully depress the forward
pedal 2 or 3 times and let the pedal return to neutral on its
own. If adjusting the bottom switch, fully depress the
reverse pedal 2 or 3 times and let the pedal return to
neutral on its own.

4. Loosen the appropriate nut (B) holding the switch to the
side of the frame.

5. Adjust the switch bracket location with the tabs to set the
gap (0.040“) between the switch’s metal plunger and the lever
associated with the switch.

6. Tighten the nut holding the switch while holding the
switch bracket stationary.

7. Check the switch gap plunger. Repeat as necessary.
With the switches adjusted properly, a slight “click” (switch
closing) can be heard almost immediately when depressing
the foot pedals.
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  #25  
Old 07-11-2008, 09:18 AM
gordym gordym is offline
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Location: midwest
Posts: 9
Thank you all for your help with my SST woes. It has helped me tremendously has saved me a bunch of money and hassle. I used ccecilm's instructions and tunrs in the proper direction now. I still have the original steering problem but my next "iinexpensive" attempt will be to bypass the vacume lines and see what affet that has on the steering.

I will keep you posted...............
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  #26  
Old 07-12-2008, 07:30 AM
ccecilm ccecilm is offline
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Location: Clinton, OK
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Great! At least one problem is solved. Bypassing the OEM vacuum line is a good idea (and inexpensive). If you need to measure vacuum run engine at medium idle for 3 - 5 minutes to bring engine to normal operating temperature. Vacuum at engine should be 13 inches. Here is the whole shabang from the tech manual:

1. Run engine at medium idle for 3 - 5 minutes to bring
engine to normal operating temperature.

2. Park machine safely with park brake locked. See “Park
Machine Safely” on page 3.

3. Raise hood.

4. Disconnect vacuum line (A) and install tee fitting into the
line.

5. Connect the vacuum gauge the third connector of the
tee fitting.

• If vacuum is 33 cm (13 in.) of mercury movement or
greater, vacuum supply from engine is ok. If a steering problem remains, check vacuum f ilters, and solenoids at actuators.
• If vacuum is less than 33 cm (13 in.) of mercury
movement, retest vacuum using straight fitting connected
directly from the engine to the vacuum gauge.
• If vacuum is 33 cm (13 in.) of water movement or
greater, vacuum supply from engine is ok. If a steering
problem remains, check vacuum filters, and solenoids at
actuators.
• If vacuum supply from engine is ok, remove fender
deck and test for vacuum at the tee fitting (G) near the
actuators. Disconnect one actuator hose and test for
vacuum.
• If the vacuum is within specification, the lines are
good.
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  #27  
Old 07-19-2008, 08:42 PM
CEWall CEWall is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Waxhaw, NC
Posts: 2
What A Find

Well first, Hello to all fellow SSTrs that at times may Love to hate their SST's.

I have had mine since October 2001 and all in all I love it. Yes a big z would be nice but I have a "happy" bond with my SST16.

Well till today when the Steering went out completely. Like others I have had come and go steering gremlins but nothing that a good cleaning of the steering switches would not address. Today it was "100% casters up"

Just got done reading the posts in this thread and what a gold mine of great information. Thanks to all that have and do share. With Deere no longer making these I have found few of the JD mechanics really understand them.

First Thank-You, Thank-You, Thank-You for the information about the Tech Manual. Early on I had asked my dealer about one and was told it was not available to the general public due to the "proprietary steering technology". Hey gotta give my dealer a A+ for creativity with that one. I will be calling JD on Monday.

For those of you that have the Tech Manual, does it do a good job of showing you how to get to some of these parts?????
I am a handy person but the location of some parts and the complexity that seems to be involved in getting to them is amazing.

Based on a New (2 months) yet Dead battery when I went to start mowing today (jumped it). I have a strong feeling my steering issue may be tied to an electrical issue. Possibly the voltage regulator module. I have the battery on a charger now. Will see if I get steering back, order up a tech manual and go from there.......

True Life Experiences and Sharing are Great Teachers!

Best To All,
Topher

p.s For those with a slope to deal with and a bagger system. I have found that if I mow all the flat areas first, the added weight of the full bags helps with traction on the slopes........
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  #28  
Old 07-20-2008, 09:02 AM
ccecilm ccecilm is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Clinton, OK
Posts: 42
"For those of you that have the Tech Manual, does it do a good job of showing you how to get to some of these parts?????"

Yes it does. Sometimes the "take apart to get down to it" is described in another section but that's because the writer assumes you have been to JD Tech College.
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  #29  
Old 07-20-2008, 04:22 PM
CEWall CEWall is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Waxhaw, NC
Posts: 2
Thanks

Perfect..........

Thanks for the confirmation ccecilm!

FYI....... With a fully charged battery, steering worked just fine today. Once I can track down why my "new" battery is draining so fast I should be set for now.

Looking forward to getting the Tech Manual and having a roadmap to help diagnose issues.

Thanks Again C. Wall
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  #30  
Old 07-20-2008, 06:15 PM
ccecilm ccecilm is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Clinton, OK
Posts: 42
CEWall,
The battery drain is most likely the voltage regulator. I believe jeffwoehrle had a similar issue on page 2 of this link.

Don't get intimidated by the volume of information in the manual (I was because I am not hydraulically or electrically inclined).
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