Reseat Kit For Kohler CV15T Carb

[ed2hess]

I got several of these Walbro carb that leak gas into the cyclinder. I usually just put a gas cutoff and go on but, but that is risky. Has anybody installed one of their reseat kits. They run around $30 from Kohler and I was wondering how difficult it was to install. All I can find on utube is stuff on how to replace the needle

[Restrorob]

Ed,

The float valve needle and or seat is what's causing your flooding issue, Get kit # 12 757 03-S then install all the needed parts into your carb...... This kit is used on a couple different carbs so not all parts will be used.

Use a Q-tip soaked with carb cleaner to clean the needle valve seat port/area.....

This may be helpful; http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/...o_lmk_carb.asp

[ed2hess]

Originally Posted by Restrorob

Ed,

The float valve needle and or seat is what's causing your flooding issue, Get kit # 12 757 03-S then install all the needed parts into your carb...... This kit is used on a couple different carbs so not all parts will be used.

Use a Q-tip soaked with carb cleaner to clean the needle valve seat port/area.....

This may be helpful; http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/...o_lmk_carb.asp

Rob that is good informaton but the seat is definitely damaged in some way. I have used q-tips, replaced needle, run it thru my ultracleaner and it still leaks. Kohler has a kit that enables the pulling of that seat out and pressing a new one in. I should have bought the kit Friday when at the dealer but
thought I would see if anybody had sucess with them. Apparently you use a vise to press it in.

[piston slapper]

Ed...I'm not familiar with that kit...usually the kit comes with 2 different needles and 1 seat..
Some carbs use just the needle with the viton seat...some use a needle and a push in rubber seat..like a briggs..
If you have a damaged brass seat...page thru the name that tool thread...I posted a group of drillbits I tapered to clean up pitted seats..
Easy to make...It helps if you have a Walbro pressure gauge when checking the needle..

[Restrorob]

Originally Posted by ed2hess

thought I would see if anybody had sucess with them. Apparently you use a vise to press it in.

Yes I've done many, Some I use a vise and some I just tap in.....

What I do;

Tap the old seat with fine threads, Use a long screw with a nut threaded up high. Cut a piece of steel brake line tubing or copper tubing that the new seat will just slide into, Cut it just long enough to clear the float hanger/support tabs/ears.

Jacking the old seat out;

So..... You have threads cut in the seat and a long screw with nut ran up near the head, Add a flat washer for the nut to hit but big enough it won't go through the tubing then slide the tubing onto the screw. Screw this assembly into the now threaded seat until it's snug, Center the tubing over the seat and jack the nut down while holding the screw head.

Installing new seat;

I take the next size screw over the new seat bore size, Screw a nut up on it then grind the first 3/16" or so threads off the end until smooth and fits inside the new seat. Run the nut back down to where theres no threads, Use this screw to press or tap the new seat into place.


Yeah I know....... Sounds like a lot to replace a seat, But once you make up a couple different size screws and tubing put them away as a kit for the next time, I've been using the same two sizes for over 20 years now......

[piston slapper]

Are the replacement seats available for the command twin carbs.???

[Restrorob]

I don't recall ever seeing them for twins, A quick look at a few random spec numbers yielded none. Heck..... I didn't know there was one for the singles until I pulled a couple up......

[ed2hess]

Originally Posted by Restrorob

Yes I've done many, Some I use a vise and some I just tap in.....

What I do;

Tap the old seat with fine threads, Use a long screw with a nut threaded up high. Cut a piece of steel brake line tubing or copper tubing that the new seat will just slide into, Cut it just long enough to clear the float hanger/support tabs/ears.

Jacking the old seat out;

So..... You have threads cut in the seat and a long screw with nut ran up near the head, Add a flat washer for the nut to hit but big enough it won't go through the tubing then slide the tubing onto the screw. Screw this assembly into the now threaded seat until it's snug, Center the tubing over the seat and jack the nut down while holding the screw head.

Installing new seat;

I take the next size screw over the new seat bore size, Screw a nut up on it then grind the first 3/16" or so threads off the end until smooth and fits inside the new seat. Run the nut back down to where theres no threads, Use this screw to press or tap the new seat into place.


Yeah I know....... Sounds like a lot to replace a seat, But once you make up a couple different size screws and tubing put them away as a kit for the next time, I've been using the same two sizes for over 20 years now......

Yes that is exactly what I needed. I should have got the kit before I posted since they now include some tools(screw + more) so it should make it a little easier. I didn't underestand t he removal part from Kohler instruction but your explanation is good. Thanks.

Had another Kohler with hydralic lifters and had to adjust the valves....remember going around with that I couldn't do it again
and had to take it to my teacher.

[pugs]

Originally Posted by Restrorob

I don't recall ever seeing them for twins, A quick look at a few random spec numbers yielded none. Heck..... I didn't know there was one for the singles until I pulled a couple up......

I believe they were in the 2010 update book. Maybe 09 or 11...cant remember. There are 4 of them. 2 for Command singles, and I think 2 for courage's. 1 for with a fuel pump, 1 for without on each engine series.

I have never put one in. I got a couple for a guy last year, but thats about it. Dont see alot of Kohler here.

Not sure if it would work on the Kohler's but on the Briggs ones I use a 3/8" socket 1/4" drive. Tap the seat for 1/4-20. Put a nut on a bolt. Put the socket over the seat. Thread the bolt into the seat. Run the nut down onto the socket and out it comes. Although not all 3/8" sockets work for some reason. Some wont let a 1/4" bolt go through. The one I usually use is from a very old craftsman set.

[ed2hess]

This is the basic stuff that you get in the Kohler kit for reseat in the 15HP. Some gaskets come with it and some other seat for different carb. Cost was $31.



So you drive the self tapping screw into the old seat and put that cap
on the gas chamber. They provide this plug so you don't have to use the normal screw plug for the bowl. And the idea is to clamp that screw very
tight in a vise and take the hammer and pound away.



This is bad but it is intended to show the screw being held in the vise
and the hammer in position to strike the plug. It works real well.


Then you sit the new seat in place and put the carb in vise. And put your float roll pin in place. The idea is to strike the plastic slug with a hammer until the step just reaches the roll pin. Got to be real careful not to bend
that pin.



After all that was done I installed the carb and it leaked worse then it did before. I took it back and they said there was a burr down inside on the seat area. First one they seen. Got a new one installed and now ready to try it. I guess I put this carb on/off this machine 40 times trying all kind of used carb and needle configurations. Too bad they don't sell just the seat now that I have the tools.