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Old 06-03-2011, 11:59 AM
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FIMCO-MEISTER FIMCO-MEISTER is offline
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Pumps my weak link..need advice

Firing up the pond at the building I manage part time. Filled the pond completely up. Did everything I could to bleed the air out of the lines. Turned the power on to the recirculating pump and it whirred for about 30 seconds then died. Dead silent. Power is good to it.

Before I order a new one and replace anybody want to give me some troubleshooting thoughts?

I put my wrench to the propeller shaft and it turns.
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Old 06-03-2011, 12:05 PM
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Wet_Boots Wet_Boots is offline
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Doesn't look like it would have a thermal cut-off. Resistance testing?

By the way, if it does come to replacement, you do well to have the same construction, since the "square-flange" pumps don't give you the ability to get a wrench on the motor shaft.
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Old 06-03-2011, 12:10 PM
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FIMCO-MEISTER FIMCO-MEISTER is offline
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Explain a little more. I can safely disconnect the wiring on this pump so it would be a good opportunity to learn a few things.
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Old 06-03-2011, 12:19 PM
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Wet_Boots Wet_Boots is offline
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Some motors have thermal protection - you can see more under the end cap - sometimes even a reset button

I've been fairly lucky with pumps, so I haven't had to get into motor diagnostics. Having had to free up stuck shafts on system startups makes me forever wanting nothing to do with square-flange pumps (they're cheaper)
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Old 06-03-2011, 12:22 PM
jabbo jabbo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIMCO-MEISTER View Post
Explain a little more. I can safely disconnect the wiring on this pump so it would be a good opportunity to learn a few things.
Ohm out the windings... Unhook the wires L1, L2, and L3 after you write down how they are attached. Then ohm out L1 to L2, L1 to L3, and L2 to L3. Then ohm out L1 to ground, L2 to ground, and L3 to ground. Compare like readings! Do this only if you find correct voltage to all 3 phases and no thermal overload or (red)reset button needs to be reset.
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Old 06-03-2011, 12:23 PM
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FIMCO-MEISTER FIMCO-MEISTER is offline
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Will do that and report back
Thanks big time.
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  #7  
Old 06-03-2011, 12:25 PM
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Wet_Boots Wet_Boots is offline
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Originally Posted by jabbo View Post
Ohm out the windings... Unhook the wires L1, L2, and L3 after you write down how they are attached. Then ohm out L1 to L2, L1 to L3, and L2 to L3. Then ohm out L1 to ground, L2 to ground, and L3 to ground. Compare like readings! Do this only if you find correct voltage to all 3 phases and no thermal overload or (red)reset button needs to be reset.
Hey there! How are those shrub sprinklers coming along?
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Old 06-03-2011, 12:30 PM
jabbo jabbo is offline
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Originally Posted by Wet_Boots View Post
Some motors have thermal protection - you can see more under the end cap - sometimes even a reset button

I've been fairly lucky with pumps, so I haven't had to get into motor diagnostics. Having had to free up stuck shafts on system startups makes me forever wanting nothing to do with square-flange pumps (they're cheaper)
My guess is that the motor is single-phasing!!! Anybody else???
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  #9  
Old 06-03-2011, 12:37 PM
jabbo jabbo is offline
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Hey there! How are those shrub sprinklers coming along?
Boots I replaced all with drip. Working pretty nice at the moment even in this horrible dry/hot slump we are in. I even ran white 1/4" hose up to the hanging baskets so we have nothing to water by hand. The back yard around the pool/porch area looks awesome!!! Now I'm in the process of raising my pgp's because in some spots the yard has grown 2-3 inches... I am also changing all the original red nozzles to the blue ones. Since we have gotten so dry, the weak areas in my design are showing up and one of them is the mid-range spots on those red nozzles...
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  #10  
Old 06-03-2011, 12:43 PM
jabbo jabbo is offline
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My guess is that the motor is single-phasing!!! Anybody else???
Never mind. You said the power was good so not that...Probably open or shorted winding...
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