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Old 06-07-2011, 12:37 AM
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Wet_Boots Wet_Boots is offline
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Febco Follies

Sorry, no photos - extremely cramped location. Had the first instance of seeing a PVB with the poppet jammed against the bonnet seat, making it an avenue to backflow. Plus, the check valve of this 765 was broken. I'm not worried bout the poppets of my beloved Wilkins 720 PVBs sticking in place, but I can no longer say that about the Febco 765
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Old 06-07-2011, 12:45 AM
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DanaMac DanaMac is offline
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I think it is the W 720 that has the plastic check valve. I find the little legs broken a lot. The F765 is brass or some kind of metal, but the screw comes out and the little legs get jammed up. So neither one is perfect.

Are you talking 3/4" or 1"?
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Old 06-07-2011, 12:47 AM
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irritation irritation is offline
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I have tested and submitted reports of over 500 PVB's this spring.
When you test at time of turn on they pass, if you wait they might stick.

Wilkins is the best PVB out there.
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Old 06-07-2011, 12:50 AM
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one-inch on the Febco - definitely a candidate for a total rebuild, although I've only carried the poppet/bonnet kits up until now

I'm starting to see some 825Ys in need of rebuilds - most of the rubber needs replacing
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Old 06-07-2011, 12:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irritation View Post

Wilkins is the best PVB out there.
What criteria? Because they pass more often? Which model? I can't stand the one with the brass bonnet, and that poppet with the orange rubber that tears.
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Old 06-07-2011, 12:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wet_Boots View Post
I'm starting to see some 825Ys in need of rebuilds - most of the rubber needs replacing
We replace the diaphragm/gasket if it is old, cracked/checked. We'll flip the rubber on the check valves if needed as well. Or replace if necessary.
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Old 06-07-2011, 12:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanaMac View Post
We replace the diaphragm/gasket if it is old, cracked/checked. We'll flip the rubber on the check valves if needed as well. Or replace if necessary.
The one I'll do the rebuild on is leaking from the relief valve, and one of the caps (bad o-ring) and the relief diaphragm is about shot (still functional, but not able to make a leak-proof seal against the cover)
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Old 06-07-2011, 01:01 AM
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I think those front plates get warped and prevent a good seal. We usually loosen the 4 bolts in the fall when we winterize, get the plate to pop open a bit to drain out the water, and leave the bolts just a little loose for the winter. I have seen a few 825s where someone has taken an old diaphragm, and cut out the center, and used the outer "doughnut" to make it stop leaking. Or I assume that is why they have it sandwiched in there.
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Old 06-07-2011, 01:09 AM
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I stopped leaving those relief covers loose, after trying it one season. Some customers griped, and I saw some debris get in
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Old 06-07-2011, 01:13 AM
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We leave as much as possible open for the winter - RP plate, testcock valves, manifold/mainline drains, drains on the copper or supply. I have seen too many seeping shut off handles, or someone accidentally turns on the water to the system and doesn't say anything - kids, workers, hubby/wife. This allows the water to drain out in as many places as possible.
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