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  #111  
Old 08-18-2011, 10:45 PM
Ridin' Green Ridin' Green is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALC-GregH View Post
This might be a little radical but do you think drilling holes in the blade would lighten them enough and still be safe to use?
Interesting idea, but I suspect that the holes would collect enough grass debris that it would actually be a drag on the blades, slowing them down, and I could see it reducing the quality of the cut possibly if enough debris built up in the holes.
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  #112  
Old 08-18-2011, 11:03 PM
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TLS TLS is offline
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In addition to weight, a thicker blade pushes more air/grass as it rotates.

Think this way.....

Most string trimmers come with .095" line.

Now try .080" - More RPM's and more power.

Now try .105" - Less RPM's and less power.

Pretty similar in weight, it's the aerodynamics causing most of the drag.
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  #113  
Old 08-18-2011, 11:15 PM
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TNGrassCutter TNGrassCutter is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDiepstra View Post
Are u sure u got g6? The pic shows a lot of lift.
The receipt says g6 with the part number and it matches the one on the blade. And they are real with the gator stamped on the back.
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  #114  
Old 08-19-2011, 03:13 AM
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Richard Martin Richard Martin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TNGrassCutter View Post
The receipt says g6 with the part number and it matches the one on the blade. And they are real with the gator stamped on the back.
All Gators have a gator on the back. What is the part number? Does the part number on the front match the part number stamped on the back?
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  #115  
Old 08-19-2011, 06:20 AM
Snapper Jack Snapper Jack is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALC-GregH View Post
This might be a little radical but do you think drilling holes in the blade would lighten them enough and still be safe to use?
I wouldn't drill holes completely through the blade to lighten it,what I would do is mill on the bottom side for weight removal but not completely through as you still want the blade to retain rigidity under stress loads,reduce grass build up and to reduce wind turbulence drag that might impede discharging.
This was s good discussion I learned a lot from everyone
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  #116  
Old 08-19-2011, 06:27 AM
Snapper Jack Snapper Jack is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TLS View Post
In addition to weight, a thicker blade pushes more air/grass as it rotates.

Think this way.....

Most string trimmers come with .095" line.

Now try .080" - More RPM's and more power.

Now try .105" - Less RPM's and less power.

Pretty similar in weight, it's the aerodynamics causing most of the drag.
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True as I've noticed more frontal blow-out, along with amount of lift on the G6.
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  #117  
Old 08-19-2011, 09:41 AM
alanauer alanauer is offline
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A heavy blade takes more power and time to reach speed but once there, hit a patch of tall tough grass and it maintains its speed better than a light one. So it's a washout.

If it hits a rock, a heavy one could get through or over it where a light one would shatter. Or a light could get stopped with just a nick, where a heavy would be wrecked because of the greater inertia. Again, a washout.

As for materials, to make a long story short I had to make a set of blades myself. I couldn't easily get or work blade-grade stock so I used ordinary steel. They have performed and lasted just as well as factory-made.
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  #118  
Old 08-19-2011, 10:31 AM
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TNGrassCutter TNGrassCutter is online now
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All part numbers match 396 726. After looking back at the pictures on page 6 of this thread I guess it is the G6. I attached a picture, from left, standard gator blade, G6 blade, standard hi lift blade. I am going to put them on and see how they do.
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  #119  
Old 08-19-2011, 01:19 PM
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Richard Martin Richard Martin is offline
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Here's mine. It's the same part number.
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  #120  
Old 08-19-2011, 01:24 PM
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That's the same. You don't like Pepsi do you Richard?
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