Anyone using thenew g6 blades

[zx14]

I don't understand how it changes the cutting height. Notice the dip in the blade where it mounts, this blade goes on the bottom of the factory blade to create more vacuum.

[Ridin' Green]

Originally Posted by zx14

I don't understand how it changes the cutting height. Notice the dip in the blade where it mounts, this blade goes on the bottom of the factory blade to create more vacuum.

A lot of guys simply run two oem blades together crisscrossed (a high lift and a mulcher above it, or something similar) that are flat, without the interlocking section that the one in your pic has. They simply tighten the center bolt down on top of both blades together which holds them just like they were running only one.

[Richard Martin]

Originally Posted by zx14

I don't understand how it changes the cutting height. Notice the dip in the blade where it mounts, this blade goes on the bottom of the factory blade to create more vacuum.

That's a Dixie Chopper X blade and that goes on top of the lower blade. Both blades cut at the same height..

[TLS]

Originally Posted by Ridin' Green

I understand how it works, and that it lowers the height by the thickness of the blades you use, but anyone who is paying attention to what they are doing should see that and adjust their HOC stop accordingly so that the HOC corresponds with the lower blade tips at the front of the deck.

Yes, you would have to raise HOC setting up one notch to compensate. But you still have to be cautious around curbs/sidewalks as you blades' cut plane is lowered by 1/4" and it is much easier to hit things this way.

On the DC, you removed the spindle spacer and everything was fine.

Originally Posted by zx14

I don't understand how it changes the cutting height. Notice the dip in the blade where it mounts, this blade goes on the bottom of the factory blade to create more vacuum.

You are still putting a 1/4" piece of steel between the spindle mounting surface and your lowest blade.

Yes they'll cut at the same plane (blades sharpened surfaces will still cut at exactly the same height), but they will be 1/4" lower in the deck shell.

Originally Posted by Ridin' Green

A lot of guys simply run two oem blades together crisscrossed (a high lift and a mulcher above it, or something similar) that are flat, without the interlocking section that the one in your pic has. They simply tighten the center bolt down on top of both blades together which holds them just like they were running only one.

Yes, that's how it's done.

OEM's frown upon it because of safety.

It is hard on electric PTO clutches.

[Ridin' Green]

I finally had a chance to take a few pics today of the G6, OEM std lift, and OEM high lift side by side. I also took one or two showing the length of the mulching edge on the G6 compared to the OEM blades.

First, and end view of al three blades L-R OEM std lift, OEM high lift, and the G6



Viewed from above to compare widths. The OEM std blade is 5/16" thick X 2.5" wide. The OEM high lift is .250" thick X 3" wide, and the G6 is .250" thick X 3" wide as well.



OEM high lift blade from front showing the curve that my blades have , that many others don't, as well as a view of the lift sail-


The G6 from the front showing again, the lift sail/fingers, and the curved edge that is sharpened and runs almost to the spindle bolt-


Finally a shot showing the OEM high lift sail next to the G6 lift sail/fingers. Both measure 1.25" tall-

[TLS]

What mower/deck is this for?

What is the washer/spacer for and is it included and why?

[Ridin' Green]

Originally Posted by TLS

What mower/deck is this for?

What is the washer/spacer for and is it included and why?

All that was in my review, but I don't mind repeating it here as well.
The blades are from my Z720A w/60" 7 Iron II deck. Also, as mentioned in my review, the plastic tape says "must use to avoid damage to machine" or something like that, so I used it. I can see no reason for it though on my mower, so I hope that Dennis (Oregons rep here on this site, but I can't recall his forum name offhand) will see these posts and respond on it. I'd like to know as well.

[Oregon OEP]

Originally Posted by Ridin' Green

All that was in my review, but I don't mind repeating it here as well.
The blades are from my Z720A w/60" 7 Iron II deck. Also, as mentioned in my review, the plastic tape says "must use to avoid damage to machine" or something like that, so I used it. I can see no reason for it though on my mower, so I hope that Dennis (Oregons rep here on this site, but I can't recall his forum name offhand) will see these posts and respond on it. I'd like to know as well.

The spacer is to compensate for the difference in thickness between the JD blade (.312") and our blade (.250"). It makes the cutting height match and also makes sure the blade bolt does not bottom out allowing the blade to loosen during use. Sorry I have been traveling and got a little behind getting answers back

[Ridin' Green]

No problem. I am glad that you had a chance to respond, and if you read my review up above, I thought that was most lkely the reason for it, but wasn't sure. On top of that, the OEM high lifts are the same dimensions as yours (width and thickness) , but don't come with any such spacer. I have never had the OEM high lifts come loose either. Still, I'm one of those guys that reads all his manuals and the info that comes with equipment, so I followed the tag's instructions to be sure I mounted them correctly.

BTW- At the risk off soundling like a suck up here, I am liking these G6 blades pretty well so far. If I didn't, I'd have darn sure have said that too, and anyone who knows me, knows that to be true. The only thing I think I'd like to see changed is to have the outer tab on the sail be as tall as the tips of the fingers.

[TLS]

Thanks Ridin' Green.

I got so many threads active, I don't always remember who's running what deck/mower.

(Hint...signature lines are great for this!) lol