Repairing larger pipe with high pressure

[ArTurf]

I have recently taken on a golf course and many of the lines are larger 1 1/2" plus. There is also higher pressure than you would normally see in residential, possibly much higher pressure during certain conditions. What type of couplings and techniques would you use? From what I have seen so far the typical repair couplings you would use on residential are prone to failure. Mechanical type couplings would be nice in some places since there are elevation changes with no way to shut off the water flow so it can be difficult to glue.

[AI Inc]

Originally Posted by ArTurf

of no way to shut off the water flow so it can be difficult to glue.

can always glue on a ball valve while open , let it dry , shut it and glue up the rest. Certainly not the best method , but doable.

[1idejim]

Originally Posted by ArTurf

I have recently taken on a golf course and many of the lines are larger 1 1/2" plus. There is also higher pressure than you would normally see in residential, possibly much higher pressure during certain conditions. What type of couplings and techniques would you use? From what I have seen so far the typical repair couplings you would use on residential are prone to failure. Mechanical type couplings would be nice in some places since there are elevation changes with no way to shut off the water flow so it can be difficult to glue.

a couple of links

http://www.topazinc.com/products/mec...s/default.html

http://www.jcmindustries.com/products/repair-fittings

there are a number of ways to fab temporary sleeves and valves to control runaway water and then do the serious repairs.

i have a 12" line that we are completing, a combination of steel, iron, class, sched40 and c-900. the existing line transitions from and to transite. when complete the line will be class 160 from transition to transition

oblique angles make the closure tough.

[FIMCO-MEISTER]

No pipe shifting allowed. Be liberal with the concrete thrust blocks. We did them at every pressurized tee and elbow on the GC I worked at.

[hoskm01]

Sounds like a big leap to go from residential to Golf Course irrigation. but sounds awesome. send pics.

[Wet_Boots]

Take photos - if something blows up, we want video

[txirrigation]

dont forget to slip a few boot pics in for you know who.

[Sprinkus]

Is it gasketed pipe and fittings on the larger pipe?
What is the pressure?
This is what we use on large gasketed pipe repairs.

[txgrassguy]

First of all if water isolation is a problem start installing a few gate type isolation valves.
Makes subsequent lateral repairs much easier instead of carting all over hells half acre searching for what isolation valves do exist.
When repairing higher pressure systems, above 120 psi, which is not uncommon at a golf course I like to use long socket couplings. They are still schedule 40 but the actual socket is two to three times deeper. Allows for more pipe to be inserted for a more secure repair.
Also I am with Pete on his comment - if in doubt THRUST BLOCK everything. Avoid the use of pressure treated wood since it will develop a depression over time allowing for pipe movement. My thrust block of choice is those half thickness cinder blocks that I can trim down for a secure fit.
Also remember to bevel all pipe above 1.5", use as hot as a solvent weld as locally available. Prime the repair, wipe of the excess primer, then join with the deep socket coupling and hot solvent weld.
I have had to repair main lines subject to pressure above 150 pounds and found the deeper sockets to be worth the extra bit of cost.

[Sprinkus]

Originally Posted by 1idejim

i have a 12" line that we are completing, a combination of steel, iron, class, sched40 and c-900. the existing line transitions from and to transite. when complete the line will be class 160 from transition to transition

oblique angles make the closure tough.

Needing something like this?