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Old 08-22-2011, 08:24 PM
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Wet_Boots Wet_Boots is online now
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Jets will top out in the 20+ gpm range, and they do cost more than centrifugals. If you really want to amp up the flow rate, at useful pressures, you wind up with a submersible in the pond.
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Old 08-22-2011, 08:50 PM
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BrendonTW BrendonTW is offline
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That was my initial plan, but a centrifugal seemed more convenient. But not if I can't get what I need from one. What about a centrifugal with a booster?
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Old 08-22-2011, 09:14 PM
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Sure, but you are burning money for no useful result, so why bother asking for professional advice? You would be just as relevant by using a 1 hp centrifugal to pull 40 gpm, and running it through 3-inch pipe to feed all-brass popup sprays operating at 20 psi.

If you had to get 50+ gpm from the pond at useful pressures with above-ground pumps, a centrifugal in series with a second centrifugal would work.
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Old 08-22-2011, 10:37 PM
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This guy will do it

http://www.drillspot.com/products/66...0_Booster_Pump

I have one of these pumps and it will do what you are looking for - or at least a couple of them will. You will need a foot valve and a good filter and a lot of water. I hope that is a big pond
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Old 08-23-2011, 09:13 AM
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A multistage centrifugal pump like the one linked is something I would use, unless there was 3 phase power available and a budget for a 5 HP pump.
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Old 08-23-2011, 09:15 AM
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Waterit Waterit is offline
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Best bet is a submersible, a 3 or 5HP will give you plenty of volume and most importantly the pressure you'll need.
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Old 08-23-2011, 09:23 AM
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There is a 25 hp submersible inside this 10" pipe. System runs at 200 gpm/100 psi.
Easier to install something like this before the pond is filled.
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Old 08-23-2011, 10:01 AM
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nice boot shot ~ here's a performance curve from the old Sta-Rite D-series centrifugal, one of the few that can be set up with a 3-inch inlet. Using the 1HP model in its recommended operating range, leaves you sprinkling with Maxipaws or R-50 rotors. What we see are centrifugals operated at flows way below the recommended range, in order to have more pressure to feed common rotor heads, and that's a waste of money.
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Old 08-23-2011, 10:51 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wet_Boots View Post
nice boot shot ~ here's a performance curve from the old Sta-Rite D-series centrifugal, one of the few that can be set up with a 3-inch inlet. Using the 1HP model in its recommended operating range, leaves you sprinkling with Maxipaws or R-50 rotors. What we see are centrifugals operated at flows way below the recommended range, in order to have more pressure to feed common rotor heads, and that's a waste of money.
Are you reading the same chart I am? Looks to me like the 2 - 2.5 HP models will suit the guy just fine based on his desired flow and pressure requirements.

Given he hasn't provided even the first scrap of information needed to size a pump correctly other than how much water he wants to pump, I would say your statement is more than a little bold.
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Old 08-23-2011, 10:58 AM
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You can irrigate at the volume/pressure desired with a centrifugal pump but it will take
three phase power and probably at least 400 volts to accomplish.
I have, in fact, designed and installed a centrifugal irrigation pump to irrigate an 18 hole golf course in Asia. Wasn't ideal but it did work - the idea being to use what was at hand verse import.
However, in your situation, I would recommend a 2hp submersible, in a stand about two feet off of the pond bottom, with maximum pressure not to exceed 80 psi and volume limited to 30 gpm.
Remember, to utilize a larger pump requires larger mainline and lateral pipe as well as larger valving which will add significantly to the installed cost. This is an instance where bigger isn't always better.
Stay with a 1.5" mainline, all valving limited to 1" (yes I know 30 gpm flow is at the limit of these valves) and you can reduce to 1" lateral lines when flow rates decline to 18 gpm or so.
Pumps are much cheaper in cost, much more readily available, wire size is smaller and electrical operating costs are less too. Not to mention outdoor mounted controller and pump start relay being an off the shelf and not "engineered".
Install I-20's on swing joints with stainless steel risers unless live stock is present then I would use 4" schedule 40 pipe as a stand pipe with the lateral inside of the 4" pipe. Drill a hole in the 4" cap sufficient for the lateral to protrude about 6" or so then mount the I-20 on a male adapter. The 4" pipe should protrude at least 5' in order to prevent livestock from attempting to "drink" from the I-20.
You can then eliminate essentially all hand trimming around the 4" pipe by using soil sterilent then add road-base around the pipe. Once every 4 months or so simply hop on the atv and spray glyosphate on any weeds that the sterilent hasn't controlled.
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