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  #21  
Old 11-29-2011, 03:56 PM
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Landscape Poet Landscape Poet is offline
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Just a questions for applicators - going into your fall on a first year client - do you slow your nitrogen source? I mean it would make sense as you could explode the BP if it does exist and you have no way of knowing in most circumstances as it is your first year on the property. Would it be better to approach Fall applications with light amounts of N and risk the loss of color compared to your competitor in the lawn next door? There has to be important plus sides to both - I mean if you hit it with a good does of N in the fall not caring if it explodes and it does not - the lawn appears deep green going into winter and your lawn looks great. On the other hand if you hit it hard and it explodes - you are eating your profits up on expensive fungicides trying to tame it as well as the visual damage that comes with the breakout. You input appreciated.
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  #22  
Old 11-29-2011, 06:25 PM
Plantculture Plantculture is offline
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My opinion would be to use small amounts of N at a time per month but put down 1# per 1000 of K now and later in the winter, along with foliar applied chelated iron.
In south fl, I'm seeing quite abit showing up.
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  #23  
Old 11-29-2011, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plantculture View Post
My opinion would be to use small amounts of N at a time per month but put down 1# per 1000 of K now and later in the winter, along with foliar applied chelated iron.
In south fl, I'm seeing quite abit showing up.
Matt, you put down 1#/K per K 2 times during the winter(Dec-feb)? Do you strictly put down the K on the second app?
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  #24  
Old 11-29-2011, 07:12 PM
Plantculture Plantculture is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diamondlandscaping View Post
Matt, you put down 1#/K per K 2 times during the winter(Dec-feb)? Do you strictly put down the K on the second app?
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That was just a suggestion for the OP in his situation relating to disease pressure and keeping a lawn green through the winter when he does not have a history on the property.
Nothing wrong with a soil test as well to get an idea of whats going on.
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  #25  
Old 11-30-2011, 12:37 AM
greendoctor greendoctor is online now
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Hard to feed low rates of N with a known response/release rate and enough K unless it is a custom blend. It is usually too warm for brown patch here, but dollar spot, leaf spot and Take All are always in the background. Just waiting for someone to spread too much urea or overwater. Not having enough available iron and manganese adds to the problem as well. When I say available iron, I am not talking about 1% iron sulfate or iron oxide thrown into the bag just so the label can say "contains iron''. I am talking about iron in forms that the grass will start taking up the moment it is applied. Thank goodness lawn haters have not dictated what I may and may not do as far as fertilizing a lawn is concerned.

Regarding a new client: new client is told about good fertilization practices, the benefits of good fertilization practices as it relates to the health of the lawn and the consequences of misuse of fertilizers. Yes, the lawn that xxx takes care of is greener than yours. However, that lawn does not endure heat very well, it overgrows and scalps when it is mowed, also there is leaf spot or other going through that lawn that xxx has not a clue as to how to manage. Yet xxx caused that disease by throwing the cheap, high urea crap on the lawn every three months for less than what I charge you for real turf management. I really do not care if I am out greened because IPM. I Pay Materials.
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